Log or Lin Pots ?

[pingu]

hi ,
i believe that a Log(aka audio) taper pot , gives a steep volume gradient between about
8-10 on the dial and a smoother descent from 7 - 1

is that correct ?


thanks
if so I think I need Linear
(Humbucker with 500k pots)

[Bobby Timmons]

Yes that's correct. Log turns down very quickly from 10-7. Linear turns down gradually or linearly.

I prefer linear for both volume and tone. Although log for tone can be ok for me.

The main instance where log is more the correct choice is for rock players who use distortion all the time. With the distortion box on, linear can not turn down until like 3, while log will turn down more effectively.

Although there is also the effect that with clean but stage volume log can turn down more effectively. I still prefer linear for volume for clean.

[Hep To The Jive]

hi ,
i believe that a Log(aka audio) taper pot , gives a steep volume gradient between about
8-10 on the dial and a smoother descent from 7 - 1

is that correct ?


thanks
if so I think I need Linear
(Humbucker with 500k pots)

Linear is terrible for volume pot at least. I was unlucky once to bring a new guitar to a gig that had that linear pot for some reason. You can't control your volume with, it cuts off abruptly, there is no middle ground. So either full volume or no volume. And forget about the volume swells, can't do it. I'd never recommend it.

[Bobby Timmons]

^ What part of the sweep is the cut off in volume for you? 7, 3, etc.?

[garybaldy]

I always thought an audio taper pot was logarithmic in the resistance but the audio sounds linear ie. even volume sweep.

[bluenote61]

I always thought an audio taper pot was logarithmic in the resistance but the audio sounds linear ie. even volume sweep.

Yes, the term " audio taper" always means logarithmic resistance function for the pot. If the audio taper pot is used in an amplifier, you'll get an linear 'feeling' of the volume change. But this does not apply in the same way for the use in guitars. There you will get this behaviour of a uneven change in volume for audio taper pots as described in the posts before.

[garybaldy]

Yes, the term " audio taper" always means logarithmic resistance function for the pot. If the audio taper pot is used in an amplifier, you'll get an linear 'feeling' of the volume change. But this does not apply in the same way for the use in guitars. There you will get this behaviour of a uneven change in volume for audio taper pots as described in the posts before.

I'm sure over the years (probably since the 70s) I've read loads to the contrary. I'm totally confused. I just looked up this issue on the SD site (not forum opinions).
Seymour Duncan What Are Potentiometers? - developers@builtmighty.com. I'm sure I could find more.

[nevershouldhavesoldit]

The effects of the volume and tone pots will vary depending on which wiring scheme is used in the guitar (so-called '50s, '60s, or modern). With modern wiring, volume is consistent as you drop the tone pot. With "50s wiring, tone stays the same as you drop the volume pot. The actual effect on the volume and tone of any guitar depends on the wiring scheme, the values of the pots, tone caps if used, and parameters external to the guitar (e.g. cable capacitance and input impedance of the circuit being driven). Switching from a linear pot to a log pot will not have the same effect on every guitar. Here's a summary diagram of the most often usd wiring schema:



If you're unhappy because you're getting almost all of your volume increase in the last sector of rotation (e.g. 8 to 10 on a knob graded 1 to 10) and there's a log pot in it, you'd probably prefer a more linear taper, If you're getting too rapid an increase in volume in a small sector closer to the 0 end of rotation and there's a linear taper pot in there, you'd probably prefer a taper closer to audio / logarithmic. Mojotone sells pots with a 30% taper, which is a great compromise between linear and audio log tapers. These are made by CTS to a high standard (e.g. they have brass shaft assemblies rather than aluminum) and are a good alternative to stock pots for most players with one of the above problems in most "normal" guitars. Here's their video:

[pingu]

Thanks all and especially Never ,

that all makes perfect sense
I have a guitar (korean ibanez) that has
an intermittent buzz fault
it gets a loud buzz (very very rarely)
so it’s hard to replicate and fix ….

its either a dodgy solder joint , bad piece of wire or possibly a bad pot

I’ve wrongly thought that I’ve found
the culprit a few times before now after
taking various components out and
reflowing solder joints etc etc

I keep thinking I’ve fixed her and yes she’s good as gold for a while , then the buzz re-appears !

damn , intermittent faults are annoying

anyway I’ve ‘fixed’ the fault again
but if/when it comes back I’m gonna have to bite the bullet and do a whole new harness to be sure of catching the fault this time

its my favourite guitar so it’s worth
me getting it right

so thanks all I think I’ll go with Linear