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I looked at a guitar yesterday--a 1960 Gretsch 6124 (Anniversary model). A guy is selling locally on FB marketplace. He says he's selling it for his uncle, who is getting rid of what used to be a huge collection (400 guitars).
Anyway, it's in "OK" shape. Some minor cosmetic issues with scratches, scrapes, needs a new nut, some knobs. The electronics are a little noisy, which could be fixed with some DeOxit or at worst new pot/jack. Pickguard is long gone.
What concerns me though is the neck. The action is too darn high--about 5/16" at the 12th fret, with not much room to adjust the roller saddle. I could probably shave 1/8" off the wooden part of the saddle, but that's about it. Not comfortable at all to play with the current setup. I could also get a new bridge which is much skinnier--the rollomatic saddle is rather high--but then you lose authenticity points.
Probably needs a neck reset. I didn't adjust the truss rod, but it seems straight without much bowing. From the look of the heel I am guessing someone has already messed with the neck and driven a screw through the heel to pull it back into alignment.
I offered $500 with the argument that this would need a neck reset. He is going to ask his uncle about it. The luthiers in town are out aways--will probably be a 6-8 month wait.
Unless...I do it myself. I have done a bit of woodworking and body repair on guitars--my other hobby is woodworking--but I've never reset a neck. How hard can it be? (LOL--he says after watching some YouTube videos.) I'm actually kind of intrigued with the idea of taking it on.
If I take care of the neck and the minor cosmetics, I could end up with a nice guitar that generally goes for $1500+ on the vintage market.
Any thoughts? Yay or nay?
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05-01-2024 02:07 PM
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Looks like it's already had a "neck reset" and not a well done one at that.
Gretsch's are notorious for having binding and neck joint issues.
I'd spend a little more and get something less problematic.
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Run away - don't walk. You'll never get it back to being a $1500 guitar due to all the past crummy work on top of the binding will probably disintegrate and repairing that will need a refinish. I'm trying to remember - it seems like the early 60s Nashville that I had in the 70's might have had that plug in the heel from the factory but I could be wrong - it's been a while. Neck resets are never easy and, unless you just want the experience, I'd try to find something that doesn't need all the work. Just my $.02.......YMMV
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That neck isn't even on straight. Dumpster fire.
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I think that if you paid $500 for this guitar, it would be a $300 too much.
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I have done one neck re-set on a Gretsch from about 1963 and the neck set was actually easier than most. The reason is because how the neck is attached and realatively easy to get off and re-set compared to a flattop. I cannot speak for you but for $500 I personally would do it, but I have the skills and tools. In you case you might as well pass and get what you want. Gretsch guitars to me from the era are some of the sloppiest and worse case ways to put a guitar together.
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Thanks for your opinions. I don't need another guitar, just looking for a cool project.
The binding is aged but appears to be OK as far as I can tell. A friend of mine who owns a guitar shop nearby and actually collects (and restores) Gretsches told me that the binding repair is very time-consuming and expensive--he said would cost at least $1300 to replace the binding.
I haven't heard back from the seller, so it might be a moot point, but if he does come down I will take another look at the guitar.
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Every time (ie., EVERY time) I see an old Gretsch, I’m reminded of the 2 or 3 old ones I once saw come into the shop where I used to work, where the truss rods were broken. On these particular specimens, I would have been surprised if they had ever worked at all.
As the saying goes, “if you have to ask…”
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I have a 1955 duo jet that is wonderful. Luckily no neck issues. I had it refretted and set up by the best shop in the area and it plays great. Sounds awesome with heavy strings too.
I would definitely pass on that guitar for the reasons other people shared. Terrible work on that neck reset.
Also, I would go for an earlier year to get dynasonics.
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I just went through this kind of question with a Gibson J50 dread, I posted my misgivings here.
Some of the best advice I got was, whether I liked the sound, etc. That is, if you really like the guitar, it's worth doing. In my case, the guitar ended up being a gift, and I ended up loving how it sounds and plays once it was done. The bonus is the guitar is now worth more than the repair cost.. at least a little.
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Looking at the offerings on Reverb...OMFG. The cheapest 6124 is $1500, and even some described as Very Good have horrible binding deterioration, nicks and scratches, and in some cases obviously high action to the point a slim replacement bridge has been used.
The binding on the one I'm looking at is good. I can replace the few knobs and make a new pickguard. The main issue is the neck. Will have to think about it. I am inclined to tackle it myself, but I know of a few guys around who could do it, though there is quite a few months wait.
Hmmm.
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Thanks for your perspective. Do you think that there is a plug in the heel of the neck in the pic above that might be covering a screw? Or maybe a dowel?
Originally Posted by deacon Mark
And do you have any pics of the joint from when you reset yours? I assume it's a traditional dovetail joint?
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The one I did had similar type plug but on the back of the guitar. That was a screw that screw down into the joint of the dovetail. My guess could be either one but probably a screw. A dowel will be much harder to remove for sure and possibly the best way if so would be to drill it out. Frankly the guitar neck is not on right and therefore you just do what needs to be done. I personally would not worry too much about the binding I cannot see that issue in the pics. Once you figure the plug out and get that out of the way. Either screw or dowel, that might give you information on how tight the neck is in the dovetail. I would then run steam or heat into where the screw came out of that probably can loosen the neck. Once off then you just shim and work till it sits where you need it. Great thing about an archtop reset vs and flattop is you can see the finish product before you glue it all up or at least better than a flattop. Too bad you don't live closer. Originally Posted by Doctor Jeff
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This might make the decision easier!
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The video I posted above suggests that it was common practice for Gretsch to use a long flat-head screw to tighten the neck joint, this was then covered by a glued in plug. The video shows this being removed as well as the rest of the neck removal. Part 2 shows refitting of the neck. Originally Posted by Doctor Jeff
Ted(?) Woodford shows a few different resets on his [twoodford] YouTube channel, mainly flat-tops, as well as explaining the aim points for the new neck angle.
Cheers
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Yes here's another one:
I think by using the screw, they didn't have to have as tight a joint, and could fill in the space with glue.
Around 1960 they moved to a mortise and tenon instead of dovetail on many guitars. Not sure which the one I'm looking at has.
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