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What say you?
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02-15-2024 05:51 PM
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I say yes, absolutely, most definitely.
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I have Sperzels, PRS, and Grovers. Depending on the brand, it can be tough getting a heavy low E string to grab.
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If a guitar comes with them fine, otherwise I don't feel the need.
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Never had them, never felt like I needed them. Never wanted to drop $100 to find out.
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I've never traced a tuning problem to a bad tuner. The worst that happens is they're hard to turn.
My Yamaha cheapie came, used, with Gotoh tuners and stays in tune perfectly. Unless something actually turns the tuner, it stays in tune. Given that experience, why would I ever want locking tuners?
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Originally Posted by Stringswinger
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If you are on a gig and break a string there's nothing better than a locking tuner to change a string quickly.
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Originally Posted by nyc chaz
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Originally Posted by nyc chaz
It would save me maybe 10 seconds - on my Strat I love them since the trem is set to float but on all other guitars they don't make a difference. They stay on guitars that came with these but I never got a new set to replace ordinary tuners.
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Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar;[URL="tel:1317510"
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I really don't care for them I would rather just set up a guitar the traditional way I do with strings.
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I like the idea
and I bought some but they busted
my low E string repeatedly
so i went back to conventional
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Yay
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Originally Posted by pingu
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I used to prefer them for quick string changes, but after changing enough strings I don’t find that they save any time anymore. They also don’t really play any well with TI Swings.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I have them on my tele...makes changing strings very convenient...which since I use flatwounds on that tele, is a convenience I get to enjoy every 12-16 months.
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Originally Posted by nyc chaz
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They definitely help with guitars that have vibratos such as a Bigsby.
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LOCKING TUNERS - YAY OR NAY?
I happen to have a PhD in locking tuners, so I may be able to address some of the concerns...
can be tough getting a heavy low E string to grab
The mechanism by which the locking tuner holds the string is not quite how one might think. Awareness of the true mechanism is further shrouded in mystery by the way the manufacturers describe the steps to string the guitar and use the tuners; they leave out some of the important steps. Turning the locking knob advances a round-end pin which intercepts the string in the tuning peg hole and presses it against the interior hollow chamber inside the tip of the tuning peg. What they don't tell you is that this interception must not be dead center to the string, they just indicate that the peg be rotated so that the string deflects 15 degrees as it enters and exits the peg hole.
The reason for the deflection is to cause the pin to press the string into the top of the peg against the top edge - so that the string's cross section in pressed to the inner peg wall by three points of contact, the pin, the wall, and the top. This makes a very firm grip while distributing the force so as to not cut or smash the string. If you do it without the deflection angle the pin can press the string between just two points of contact (pin and top) increasing the chance of cutting the string in the peg.
The way to get the string and pin into the three contact geometry is to start with the 15 degree deflection and alternate turning the knob and turning the tuning key in little steps so that it takes a half dozen cycles to the knob being firm, then turn the key up to pitch.
why would I ever want locking tuners?
set to float but on all other guitars they don't make a difference
- to get rid of the peg's string winding wraps which hold low tension until played out
- more mass on the head stock
- faster string changes
but they busted my low E string repeatedly so i went back to conventional
You can’t tighten the locking nut beyond barely snug, or you’ll break strings
- see the first section about how to avoid cutting strings
While we're talking about strings,...
anyone around here use the method of stretching their new strings where after getting the strings tuned to standard, each string is individually (one at a time) tuned up two whole tones, then tuned back down to standard? The method is based on avoiding the mechanical horrors of just grabbing a string and yanking it some undetermined displacement perpendicularly off the finger board, the theory is based on the string manufacturers' statement that tensile strengths will tolerate a two and a half whole tone over standard tension... supposed to ensure that the forces applied are "in-line" with the guitar's structural strength and below the strings' rated break point.
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I had always assumed that the main selling point was better tuning stabililty -- even though I didn't believe it based on my experience with non locking tuners holding tune perfectly.
Or is it faster string changes?
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Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
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Yeah it’s all about changing strings. I’ve used several different brands, but like HipShot open-gear best. Well made and lighter than most others. Not as light as Kluson-style lockers, but I don’t like having to use a coin (or whatever) to screw down the top of the post.
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Only with a Floyd.
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Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
The Autumn of Solo Guitar 2024
Yesterday, 12:42 PM in Chord-Melody