The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
    I had always assumed that the main selling point was better tuning stabililty -- even though I didn't believe it based on my experience with non locking tuners holding tune perfectly.

    Or is it faster string changes?
    It helps with tuning stability on guitars that have whammy bars (by keeping the string from slipping on the tuning post). It also simplifies installing strings.

    I actually did go to the trouble of installing locking tuners (Kluson Revolution) on a guitar. On that guitar (Godin Kingpin), it was a small convenience over regular tuners, but nothing earth-shaking. One of the tuners broke (not the locking part FWIW), and I wound up putting the originals back.

    One of these days I might try some sort of locking tuners on my Strat. I’ve been saying that for about as long as I’ve had it, which is almost 35 years. You could probably take that as a measure of how compelling I find the idea.

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  3. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by pauln

    While we're talking about strings,...
    anyone around here use the method of stretching their new strings where after getting the strings tuned to standard, each string is individually (one at a time) tuned up two whole tones, then tuned back down to standard? The method is based on avoiding the mechanical horrors of just grabbing a string and yanking it some undetermined displacement perpendicularly off the finger board, the theory is based on the string manufacturers' statement that tensile strengths will tolerate a two and a half whole tone over standard tension... supposed to ensure that the forces applied are "in-line" with the guitar's structural strength and below the strings' rated break point.
    No, I just tune them up and play. I keep the winding low on the peg head and they stop slipping pretty quick. At a gig I would just tune between each song.

  4. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by pauln
    LYou can’t tighten the locking nut beyond barely snug, or you’ll break strings
    - see the first section about how to avoid cutting strings
    I think it depends on the brand / design of the tuner and how loose the string is in the post hole. I’ve used Sperzels since the ‘90s, and the strings that have broken at the tuner have been the heaviest ones. The cores of both 0.052 and larger 6th and 0.075 7th strings have broken because I overtightened the locking screws in my early innocence. And they almost always broke when I detuned to work on the guitar or change the strings - it only happened once while playing. When I still played 6 strings, I had two PRS customs and their lockers worked perfectly for me, with no broken strings.

    Even using your turn-tighten-turn-tighten method, you can overtighten them and cause breakage. In general, far more direct damage to fasteners and the things they’re fastening is done by overtightening than by undertightening. Easy does it!

  5. #29

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    A THUMBS DOWN to locking tuners. They simply aren’t as effective as a properly wrapped string, don’t save much if any time during a string change (not that that’s a problem for most of us using heavier strings anyway) and add an unjustifiable amount of weight.

  6. #30

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    None yet though I've thought about it on a couple of strats and teles.

  7. #31

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    Changing strings without doing all the winding is worth it for me. On electric guitars that risk breaking a string live (and need new strings more often) I always install locking tuners. I have found Sperzels to be the best.

    If the strings are properly installed and wound, regular tuners are fine for stability so I only use locking ones for speed on string changes. I wish they were more readily available for acoustics..

  8. #32

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    I have put the self cutting planet waves locking tuners on about 4 of my solid body guitars. I like them. String change quick and easy.

  9. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by pauln

    While we're talking about strings,...
    anyone around here use the method of stretching their new strings where after getting the strings tuned to standard, each string is individually (one at a time) tuned up two whole tones, then tuned back down to standard? The method is based on avoiding the mechanical horrors of just grabbing a string and yanking it some undetermined displacement perpendicularly off the finger board, the theory is based on the string manufacturers' statement that tensile strengths will tolerate a two and a half whole tone over standard tension... supposed to ensure that the forces applied are "in-line" with the guitar's structural strength and below the strings' rated break point.
    Interesting method!

    I just pull them manually until they stay in tune after pulling.

    I used a Stretcha tool for this for a while. Then I spoilt some sets of rock strings by stretching them too much. They lost the brightness, got very dull. I stopped using the Stretcha and returned to pulling them manually.

    I have to try Your method next time!

  10. #34

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    I had bad experiences with two POS guitars that had them. I'm still too traumatized to talk about them.

  11. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Alter
    I wish they were more readily available for acoustics..
    Are acoustic tuners different?