String Height Adjustment

[2-5Guy]

Even loosing the string tension before trying to turn the adjustment wheels on my L-5 doesn't seem to help all that much with regards to the how easily the wheels turn. I carefully used some needle nose with a polish cloth between but still there's a good amount of resistance. Even when lowering the strings which you'd think would offer less resistance than would in raising it. Why is that?
I could see some gold dust come off.
So I stopped messing with it. Height is good now anyway.

Is there a particular method for this style of bridge?

[wintermoon]

Even loosing the string tension before trying to turn the adjustment wheels on my L-5 doesn't seem to help all that much with regards to the how easily the wheels turn. I carefully used some needle nose with a polish cloth between but still there's a good amount of resistance. Even when lowering the strings which you'd think would offer less resistance than would in raising it. Why is that?
I could see some gold dust come off.
So I stopped messing with it. Height is good now anyway.

Is there a particular method for this style of bridge?

be careful to note if the thumbwheel threads are correctly lining up w/ the threads on the post.
gold shavings is an indication the threads are possibly misaligned.
I'd slacken the strings and mark the bridge position and take the bridge off to have a good look.

[deacon Mark]

Take whole bridge off and mark the place it sits with masking tape. Then take saddle off and chase the threads up and down with adjustment wheels. Add a drop of lightweight oil or Vaseline to threads. Wipe any excess. Should move up and down with ease.

[2-5Guy]

Take whole bridge off and mark the place it sits with masking tape. Then take saddle off and chase the threads up and down with adjustment wheels. Add a drop of lightweight oil or Vaseline to threads. Wipe any excess. Should move up and down with ease.

Will do.
I'm using painter's tape. Low tack.

[2-5Guy]

Should the posts be screwed down all the way? They weren't

[2-5Guy]

I found the problem.
The holes in the bridge don't exactly line up with the posts.
The threads are fine.
I lubricated them with liquid bearing which I use on my turntable spindle.

[sgosnell]

The adjustment wheels can often be hard to turn because of friction, which is increased if the bottom of the saddle where the wheels contact it is a little rough. Some wheels require a spanner to turn while the guitar is tuned to pitch. Lubricating the threads doesn't help much IME, but smoothing and polishing the bottom of the saddle where the wheels touch does usually help. Sometimes the wheels themselves are rough where they tough the saddle, and may need to be smoothed. Sometimes just turning the wheel(s) over can help. Lubing the threads doesn't hurt if not overdone. You don't want lubricant all over the guitar, to state the obvious.

[2-5Guy]

How far do my posts need to be into the wood? I can see that I'll need to back them out a bit in order to get to right height.

I noticed that there was a good amount of post showing especially on the bass side before I started disassembly of the bridge.

[Jimmy Mack]

Good that you took the matter into your own hands. Learning and mastering are always good, not that all solutions are that easily accomplished, but at least you know what's happening to your friend the guitar! And any further problems won't be so daunting hopefully.
Lubricating is great and hopefully the adjustment will last a long time.

Enjoy.

[wintermoon]

How far do my posts need to be into the wood? I can see that I'll need to back them out a bit in order to get to right height.

I noticed that there was a good amount of post showing especially on the bass side before I started disassembly of the bridge.

As far as possible w out touching the top of the guitar

[2-5Guy]

The adjustment wheels can often be hard to turn because of friction, which is increased if the bottom of the saddle where the wheels contact it is a little rough. Some wheels require a spanner to turn while the guitar is tuned to pitch. Lubricating the threads doesn't help much IME, but smoothing and polishing the bottom of the saddle where the wheels touch does usually help. Sometimes the wheels themselves are rough where they tough the saddle, and may need to be smoothed. Sometimes just turning the wheel(s) over can help. Lubing the threads doesn't hurt if not overdone. You don't want lubricant all over the guitar, to state the obvious.

The problem was with the holes in the metal bridge not aligning up with the posts. The threads and wheels spin freely. I lubricated with liquid bearing.

[2-5Guy]

As far as possible w out touching the top of the guitar

I can see that they will have to be almost halfway out in order to get the correct string height.

[wintermoon]

I can see that they will have to be almost halfway out in order to get the correct string height.

As long as they're firmly in place you'll be fine. It's when they're loose that they have a tendency to tilt.

[2-5Guy]

As long as they're firmly in place you'll be fine. It's when they're loose that they have a tendency to tilt.

Ok thanks

[sgosnell]

Not being straight and parallel increases the friction, putting all the weight on one edge of the wheel. If you're using a metal TOM style saddle, some lube could help temporarily, but it won't last unless it's pretty heavy. A proper fit between the base and the saddle is the best solution, but if it works for you, get on with life.