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Originally Posted by sgosnell
Every fork used in the study I cited was calibrated on a B&K spectrum analyzer in the University of Pennsylvania Audiology Research Lab before the study was done. I just measured the output of one of the 256 Hz steel forks used in that study. Here it is - see the actual frequency in the lower left corner of the display. I also included a calculator showing conversion of the 0.15 Hz variance into actual cents. This fork is accurate to 1.014 cents, which I do not consider approximate. Some of the others were even more accurate, but none of the high quality steel forks was less so. For comparison, I also ran one of the cheap aluminum forks alongside this one, and it was sharp by 6 cents. I've done this many times over the years - the best steel forks are amazingly consistent, as clean (re THD) as a top line B&K laboratory signal generator, and within 1 cent or less of true pitch. Good tuning forks are quite accurate and cheap ones are not. It's as simple as that.
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08-07-2022 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
My previous tuners has gone to sleep after a minute or so regardless, so thats what I thought of as auto off
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Fun fact, the standard temperature for tuning forks is 68 degrees fahrenheit, at which they ring true
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
Originally Posted by sgosnell
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
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Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
And that range will vary with the design and composition of the fork. Those with a lower coefficient of thermal expansion will change less with increasing temp because the dimensions are much less sensitive to temp.. Aluminum has a coefficient of about 20, and steel is about 10 - so a good steel fork will be much less affected by temperature change. The formula for calculating frequency of a fork of given construction is in this paper and every textbook on the subject, and all the parameters are described.
The numbers in the paper linked above look to me like they’re for aluminum forks.
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Originally Posted by JohanAbrandt
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Originally Posted by RJVB
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Why does it take so many of you longer than 30 seconds to tune?
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Anyone using Peterson Strobe's iStrobosoft on their iPhone? Seems like they're pushing it on their site. FWIW, if you follow some of Rob Mackillop's stuff for gut strings... the bit about resetting "A" to something other than 440 HZ works with the iPhone tuner app "GuiTune" that I've used before with some success. Tried out the alternate "A" thing a few times out of curiosity, and yes, it works, but I switched back. Duh. But there is a flexibility with apps and Peterson is selling a plug in so you would plug your guitar directly into the phone if that makes sense. I have not gone this route, but am taking notes from this discussion. (Thank you!)
As to the tuning fork, I got rid of mine after 2 decades of using electronic tuners....didn't even know I still had it. The electronic things are simpler.
BUT FWIW, I wanted to add the most common use I see of tuning forks is with singing groups, choirs, etc. ...where they don't have instruments to get their pitch from and the singing is a capella. This is my usual Sunday observation... that the choir director takes the cue from the "A" of the tuning fork, and then softly sings the pitches to the choir but at least in my parish, most of their music is set in a mode of "A" so that makes sense. Again, "duh".
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Why does it take so many of you longer than 30 seconds to tune?
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
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I have the iStroboSoft app on my phone, and the PitchGrabber. It works. It's mostly useful for setting intonation, because it gives a much larger display than a clipon. It's accurate, and the phone's mic works well enough in quiet environments. If it's noisy, the PitchGrabber works. The downside is that it's cumbersome, and doesn't work well in a gig situation. For tuning at home it's a cheap option that works.
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Thanks for reminding me: iPhone doesn't really work (and a plug-in pigtail would tend to get lost amid clutter) except when you can post it on a music stand while you tune. So the clip-on's reign remains intact. THanks!
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Originally Posted by JWMandy
I use the Airyware tuning app, which is cheaper than Strobosoft's and does everything with the same accuracy AFAICT. It even includes a wave display which can come in handy.
There's an Android version of the app, which probably makes it easier to pair it with a generic clip-on mic.
FWIW, my Korg tuner works fine off the KA pickup on my archtop; I have to presume this would be the same for other electromagnetic PUs and other tuners that have an input for an external mic.
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Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
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Originally Posted by rpjazzguitar
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Originally Posted by Woody Sound
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Originally Posted by RJVB
Myself, I don’t like to sacrifice valuable board space for a tuner…. Luckily, my guitars are all very stable (yes all of them, no exception funny enough) and I always tune once at the beginning of the gig and very rarely I need to tune again that night….. I credit that to the fact that all my nuts are well cut (I do that myself), play on heavy flatwounds, I carefully wind the strings when putting them on and stretch them before use and of course I don’t use any tremolo/vibrato and perhaps I play (too?) civilised?
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Originally Posted by RJVB
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Originally Posted by Woody Sound
Alternatively, learn to (re)tune by ear like orchestra players do while the rest of the orchestra continues to play. Actually, you might be able to use bone condition if you put the bit of skull just behind your ears on the guitar body
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Originally Posted by RJVB
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I have touched the butt end of a fork to a tooth. Rings in your entire head.
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Try getting it wrong with a mouth harp, can be a bit of a chock for a tooth
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