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  1. #1

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    Hey guys. Been shopping around and I stumbled across this Peerless Leela from Sam ash for $999 and its NEW? Is this correct??! These guitars go for $1800 from Guitarsnjazz! Why’s this one being sold at almost half price new?

    is there a catch? I asked the customer er service folks if it was incorrect, or if there were any flaws - they said it’s correct and pristine!

    Peerless Guitars Leela Hollow Body Electric Guitar | SamAsh

  2.  

    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    Hmmm, they have the list price at $1200.

  4. #3

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    The Sam Ash listing says MSRP is $1199. Maybe the GuitarsNJazz model is a an upgrade or a custom order?

  5. #4

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    Well if you’ve been wanting one, I’d say get a good return policy/agreement in print, then go for it!

  6. #5

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    There was a 40th anniversary limited edition that was more expensive. At the very least, the top on the one from G'nJ is much nicer.

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Ash
    • Carved Solid Flame Maple Top on Laminated Flame Maple Sides


    No. Guaranteed no. No such critter.

  8. #7
    Guaranteed no? Care to explain?

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Sherry
    [/LIST]

    No. Guaranteed no. No such critter.
    Those are the specs for the Leela 40th on the Peerless site.


  10. #9

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    Well... I just ordered one of these for $899 along with a further coupon discount.

    I’ll report back here when it arrives. The price really does sound too good to be true and if it is it’ll go back. If it’s all it claims to be then it’ll be the bargain of the year!

    Stay tuned...
    Last edited by Kentano2000; 04-21-2020 at 09:33 AM.

  11. #10

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    I played one at NAMM many years ago. I thought it played great. Sort of an affordable Benedetto Bravo type model.

  12. #11

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    The Sam Ash $899 Leela arrived today. I’ve never played many arch tops much less owned one so this is my first go-round. That being said, the guitar is gorgeous - really looks great with the dark red burst finish and all that ebony to offset it. The first thing to know is the top, sides and back are all flamed maple. Yes, really. I need to check to see if the top is solid or not. Any advice on how to do that? The S holes are bound so I can’t check there to see. Second, although the specs say the binding is ivoroid, it looks like natural maple to me. It’s a very nice touch and looks really elegant, especially framing the dark ebony fretboard. I also really dig the simple, minimalist look of the fretboard with no markings other than the whispy grassy 12th fret abalone inlay.

    I tuned her up, plugged into my Fender 68 Custom Vibrolux, and gave her a quick spin. The neck shape felt nice - neither too big nor small, I think we’ll get along just fine. Some frets buzz, especially on the lower strings at various locations, as well as some of the ends needing a very slight filing. That’s not going to happen anytime soon with our friend COVID-19 hanging around so I’ll make the best of it until then. I started with the volume off to get a sense of the acoustic tone. Sounded pretty good to my ears. Turned the volume up and played with the tone control and... YES! Sounds fantastic! I’m getting a great sound, right in the ballpark of what I think a good jazz sound should be. Count me impressed!

    The one “off” thing about the guitar is the headstock “Since 1970” inlay. It’s slightly crooked! I had planned on putting a piece of gaffers tape over it anyway because I think it’s a bit cheesy and this seals that deal.

    Overall I feel I got a great deal on this axe! She’s a keeper for sure. I’ll take some pics and put them up tomorrow for everyone to enjoy the eye candy. I’m glad to answer any questions you might have as well. Thanks and stay healthy !

  13. #12

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    Okay, pic time! Sorry for all the reflections, the light is crappy here today so I did the best with what I had. A few quick updates from my previous post first:

    It looks like the binding is a combo of maple and plastic. Mostly maple with black strip and cream plastic on the body, just plastic in the S holes, and just maple on the neck.

    The neck has settled in a bit and there is only buzzing on the low E, especially at the 13th fret and a bit a the 10th. The 11th and 14th frets look to be a bit high there. Overall the fret work is very good though, and the neck still feels very nice.

    The case isn't that great. Doesn't line up well at 2 of the fasteners but overall it's serviceable.

    Ok, as promised, the pics, part 1...

    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-1390a5c3-c501-4bda-b37b-96127854a08a-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-22056f4b-4372-4733-82fd-7e5137cf3608-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-c09335f8-e3bf-4428-a45d-b5bfd4f64dc2-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-90388bb8-801f-4608-812b-42ea6711007a-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-64283c5c-6b53-48ca-b9ed-f4cd4195223f-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-4b97597c-b04b-4311-8e97-a3826450b916-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-abfc5d37-6d43-4661-8a45-e5e1c0ceb052-jpg


  14. #13

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    Pics part 2...

    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-3f9724f8-c690-4575-92ad-eb3b6e31fb7d-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-3b77dbdc-ffc5-4327-9a2b-f631a63e5134-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-2d04df9b-9287-4c81-898f-3fc559c4f0c3-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-b1f411e1-da6e-4a57-a309-40d73b9a49e0-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-8fc30b8c-3f0a-4b76-aba6-0ed13090d1bf-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-0d1058bf-dd05-416c-95f6-187c8307e233-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-a5758c62-cd31-45f8-b33d-b3c6fea1438d-jpg

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kentano2000
    TI need to check to see if the top is solid or not. Any advice on how to do that? The S holes are bound so I can’t check there to see.
    Press onto the little "corners" of the S-holes. If they flex fairly easily, it's probably solid. But don't push too hard or it'll break!

  16. #15
    So, I reached out to GuitarsnJazz in New Jersey wondering why the prices were so different (they sell tons of peerless). Here’s the response:
    Attached Images Attached Images Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-247e0c58-2c5e-43d8-9276-3a5c911caa9a-jpeg 

  17. #16
    After reading their reply, wondering if you’ve noticed any of this to be true with yours?

  18. #17

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    I love that 12th fret inlay.

  19. #18
    It looks like the high e string is resting off the edge of the fretboard!

  20. #19

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    Pretty guitar. Here's hoping it inspires you for a long time.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kentano2000
    I need to check to see if the top is solid or not. Any advice on how to do that?
    Remove the pickup and check the top closely for laminations. Use a magnifying glass or blow it up big with your phone cam.

    Blow this pic up big and you will see a three-laminate sandwich. That's ply.




    Enjoy!
    Last edited by Sam Sherry; 04-24-2020 at 11:39 AM.

  21. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by MHoranzy
    It looks like the high e string is resting off the edge of the fretboard!
    just shimmy the bridge over a bit

  22. #21

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    Thanks for all the feedback, guys! MHoranzy, special thanks for that reply from GuitarsnJazz, and for noticing the string misalignment. I just finished working on that when I came here to report. Pingu, I’m not sure how to shimmy the bridge a bit, but I found I can just readjust the strings over the bridge to get the alignment back on par. All I’ll really need to do is just cut some new grooves where I have the strings now and I’ll be good to go. See the before and after pics below. Other than this misalignment, which definitely makes it a second, everything else is peachy keen.

    Before:
    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-3939d444-e077-4c07-aa6a-ad1f729702a4-jpg

    After:
    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-be4d8523-ffbb-48e4-98eb-1084b79f3ae0-jpgPeerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-31c0e115-d82a-40fa-81d4-595bc09387b0-jpg

  23. #22

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    No need to do that. On the original pictures the bridge looks fine, they just put it a bit off when they stringed the guitar. The bass string is a bit too much inside on the fretboard as well, and all the strings are a bit off over the pickup polepieces.

    Just loosen the strings and move the bridge a bit towards the bass string side and it will align fine.

    The bridge on archtops moves freely. Use the polepieces for left right alignment, and the notes on the 12th fret for closer-further. If they are sharp, go a bit back, if flat a bit towards the pickup

  24. #23

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    Ha ha, ok, I see now! This solid body guy didn't realize the bridge wasn't glued down. LOL. Just adjusted it and am entirely back on track. Thanks!

  25. #24

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    NOOO, don't alter the bridge cuts! Just slide the whole thing over toward the bass side of the guitar so it's even on the fretboard.

  26. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Woody Sound
    NOOO, don't alter the bridge cuts! Just slide the whole thing over toward the bass side of the guitar so it's even on the fretboard.
    Done! See previous post.

  27. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kentano2000
    Done! See previous post.
    Sorry, bad post timing.

  28. #27

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    Let's apply a little skeptical analysis to GNJ's statement. (NOT to MHoranzy -- there's no reason to doubt MH.)

    Quote Originally Posted by MHoranzy
    GuitarsnJazz in New Jersey . . . sell tons of peerless). Here’s {what they say about being undercut by Sam Ash}
    This is a merchant talking about its competitor. Buckle up!

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    Most of the Peerless guitars offered by Sam Ash
    1. Unless you've been told this by someone who works for Sam Ash, how could you possibly know what proportion?

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    are older closeout/overstock models
    2. You mean they're missing the latest groundbreaking innovations in archtop guitar manufacturing?
    Or they're only as good as the ones you sold last year?
    Or they're not as good as your unsold inventory?

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    at huge discounts
    3. The most likely way you would know this is if you couldn't or didn't buy them yourself. Either way, not a problem for the alert customer.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    because they were in their warehouse for a long time
    4. See #2 above.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    and many are seconds that may require repair.
    5. a) Again, how would you know?
    b) As anybody who has studied Gibson history knows, there are seconds and there are "seconds."
    c) Candor with respect to "may" is appreciated.
    d) Because unless you got told by Sam Ash, there is no way you could know whether Sam Ash has made all required or advisable repairs before selling these instruments.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    Many
    6. Again, how do you know?

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    have the tailpiece mounted incorrect so it is resting on the top, reducing the acoustic tone
    7. . . . of this electric guitar . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    and making it impossible to change the strings.
    8. Taking this entirely at face value, three fixes come to mind:
    a) Remove the tailpiece; bend it a little; reinstall using the three factory screws in the three factory holes.
    b) Remove the tailpiece; reinstall in a slightly elevated position.
    c) Replace the tailpiece and consider the cost as part of the bargain you got on the guitar.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    Some have improper pickguard height.
    9. You'll have to adjust the pickguard height. Or maybe -- gasp! -- remove the pickguard altogether. Or play it anyway.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    Some have no grounding.
    10. A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who can solder and has any wire at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarsNJazz
    These are all questions you should ask before buying from Sam Ash so you won't have to deal with the repairs.
    11. Can't argue with that. Wise purchasers gather information about what they are purchasing and factor in any extra cost against the savings obtained.

    For me 'bagging on your competition' is a negative mark when I am in the market for anything from a guitar to a political candidate, but some people enjoy that sort of thing.

    I say, "Sales operative at work." Now I'm going back to work.

  29. #28

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    That's a beautiful color!

  30. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Sherry
    ...A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who [is not an idjit].
    Sam: - loved the whole post! My little edited excerpt sums it up, I think.

    Except for one thing: never bend any metal on Furutama guitar tailpeces. Almost all of them are made of compressed dryer lint and will fail sooner or later if bent.
    Last edited by Hammertone; 04-24-2020 at 06:27 PM.

  31. #30

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    So after adjusting the bridge and going over everything with a fine toothed comb, the only thing turning out to be a “second” about this guitar is the slightly crooked headstock inlay. If that’s all that’s needed to cut this axe down to half price then I’m all in. I’m going to enjoy this one for a long time.

  32. #31

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    That's one heckuva buy for $899. What can you buy today for $899 besides an Eastman 571, which will sound much brighter than this guitar. Good purchase!

  33. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Sherry
    Let's apply a little skeptical analysis to GNJ's statement. (NOT to MHoranzy -- there's no reason to doubt MH.)


    This is a merchant talking about its competitor. Buckle up!


    1. Unless you've been told this by someone who works for Sam Ash, how could you possibly know what proportion?


    2. You mean they're missing the latest groundbreaking innovations in archtop guitar manufacturing?
    Or they're only as good as the ones you sold last year?
    Or they're not as good as your unsold inventory?


    3. The most likely way you would know this is if you couldn't or didn't buy them yourself. Either way, not a problem for the alert customer.


    4. See #2 above.


    5. a) Again, how would you know?
    b) As anybody who has studied Gibson history knows, there are seconds and there are "seconds."
    c) Candor with respect to "may" is appreciated.
    d) Because unless you got told by Sam Ash, there is no way you could know whether Sam Ash has made all required or advisable repairs before selling these instruments.


    6. Again, how do you know?


    7. . . . of this electric guitar . . .


    8. Taking this entirely at face value, three fixes come to mind:
    a) Remove the tailpiece; bend it a little; reinstall using the three factory screws in the three factory holes.
    b) Remove the tailpiece; reinstall in a slightly elevated position.
    c) Replace the tailpiece and consider the cost as part of the bargain you got on the guitar.


    9. You'll have to adjust the pickguard height. Or maybe -- gasp! -- remove the pickguard altogether. Or play it anyway.


    10. A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who can solder and has any wire at all.


    11. Can't argue with that. Wise purchasers gather information about what they are purchasing and factor in any extra cost against the savings obtained.

    For me 'bagging on your competition' is a negative mark when I am in the market for anything from a guitar to a political candidate, but some people enjoy that sort of thing.

    I say, "Sales operative at work." Now I'm going back to work.
    Do you know Lou at GuitarsNJazz?

  34. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMgolf66
    Do you know Lou at GuitarsNJazz?
    Never spoken with him. Never purchased from him.

    I don't look often but IMR his site always has sloppy copy. For instance, these three guitars are all described as "without f-holes" but that's only accurate for one of the three. That always puts me off: If you can't get your own inventory right, why should strangers trust you enough to buy remotely?

    How about you, DM? Feel free to speak up for Lou, not that you need me to say so.

  35. #34

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    Others can chime in with more direct experience, but my impression of Lou at GnJ is that he runs a good shop. He has been the exclusive dealer for Peerless for a long time, as well as several other well-made foreign guitars.

    One can’t really disagree with what he’s saying about the guitars on Sam Ash. Right now there’s no Leila on their website—the only Peerless listed is a Wizard that’s backordered. So it sounds like it’s an inventory blowout thing.

    I like the looks of the Leila a lot, particularly in blonde (sadly not available at a sale price). Peerless really hits above their weight. I think they have been limited by difficulties in distribution to the American market, as well as poor marketing including a horrible corporate website.

    Just a few more comments: the Peerless are extremely well made, especially the woodwork and binding. The necks are very comfortable—rather narrow, as all Korean-made guitars seem to be. There’s a lot of bling for the buck.

    A couple of negatives, if you will...the cheaper models use cheaper electronics and pickups—my
    Sunset has Epi Classic 57’s, which are fine but some might want to change out. The finish is thick poly, again not to everyone’s taste. There seem to be some minor finishing things...my guitar has the same logo but with “Since. 1970” on the headstock. Obviously not made by someone familiar with where periods go in a sentence.

    That said, they are awesome guitars that fill a void that Gibson and others aren’t focusing on these days (hollow thin line jazz boxes for instance). I think the MSRP on GnJ is just a little high, but still a good deal, and at 25-50% off, a steal.

  36. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alter
    No need to do that. On the original pictures the bridge looks fine, they just put it a bit off when they stringed the guitar. The bass string is a bit too much inside on the fretboard as well, and all the strings are a bit off over the pickup polepieces.

    Just loosen the strings and move the bridge a bit towards the bass string side and it will align fine.

    The bridge on archtops moves freely. Use the polepieces for left right alignment, and the notes on the 12th fret for closer-further. If they are sharp, go a bit back, if flat a bit towards the pickup
    yeah just give it a shove

  37. #36

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    OK gents, so I took the pickup out to check on the top. The verdict says it's solid (see pics below). So, with that in mind, what's the difference between this model and the 40th Anniversary model? I was looking at the specs pic that Jim posted earlier in the thread and this Sam Ash blow out seems to hit everything except the "40" inlay? Please let me know your thoughts. I'm really enjoying this guitar!

    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-image1-3-jpeg

    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-image0-3-jpeg

    Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?-image0-4-jpeg
    Last edited by Kentano2000; 04-27-2020 at 03:50 PM.

  38. #37

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    Bumping to see if anyone might have any insight on my question above about the difference between the standard and 40th anniversary editions. Also, mine is settling in nicely as I get to know her. I’m really enjoying the playability and the tone coming through my Custom 68 Vibrolux.

  39. #38

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    I am new to the forum. I saw this thread and had to chime in. I did a lot of research on this and so far as I can tell the 40th anniversary edition and the non 40th anniversary are identical except the 40 has a "40" inlay on the 12th fret and it has a Ken Armstrong HB pickup. Other than that they are the same guitar.

    I picked the last one inventory from Sam Ash about 3 weeks ago. I can tell it had been in storage for some time because the wood had contracted quite a bit and the frets were sticking out of the neck just a little bit.

    One week in my humidity controlled guitar/practice room fixed that. The frets are still a little rough but not enough to bother me. Other than that I found nothing wrong with the guitar and it plays and sounds better than my Epi Joe Pass or my Godin 5th Ave Kingpin II (both nice guitars).

    As to what the Guitars 'n Jazz guy said. I get it, They sell theirs for $1799 and Sam Ash buys out some overstock and undercuts them by 1/2 or more. That suck and as one of only 2 authorized Peerless dealers in the US they should be pissed off at Peerless. That said I am fairly certain the the only difference between the one they sell and then one I bought is about $1000.

    I am pretty sure that buying from them might have some benefits like they probably keeps them in a temperature and humidity controlled room and the probably do a simple setup on them (sort of what Sweetwater does). I don't think these are seconds because they would have to mark them as such. B stock... maybe But I have found no defects, electronic issues, or playability issue with mine.

    All to say I am glad I found the deal when I did and was able to snag the last one.

  40. #39

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    Lou at Guitars N Jazz is wonderful....on many levels. I know him personally and I think very, very highly of him.

  41. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMgolf66
    Lou at Guitars N Jazz is wonderful....on many levels. I know him personally and I think very, very highly of him.
    I am sure he is and I am only about 1:45 min for his store. I wanted to take a trip last month but not possible with the pandemic lock down. Then I found the one at Sam Ash, I am pretty sure I will be in the market again for another guitar when my next episode of GAS hits lol. It would be nice to go to a store where I can pick up and play things before I buy and the local Guitar Center has a ery poor selection in Archtops.

  42. #41

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    Thanks for chiming in, Kataan. You’ve come to the same conclusions I have about this Sam Ash blowout. BTW, this one also has the Kent Armstrong pickup. It’s a wonderful guitar and I can’t believe it was available for the price it was going for. The more I play it the more I really appreciate it.

  43. #42
    Lovely looking guitar.

  44. #43

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    I bought a Sam ash Leela for $1000 in June 2019. The guitar looks and sounds great. However the tailpiece is off kilter, resulting in the high e string pulling off fretboard on certain attacks. The neck was a bit wonky but that maybe the case on many non-second guitars). Luckily I was at the time taking a class at my techs shop so was able to dial in the neck and frets better. He did a temp fix by adjusting the bridge and gluing, but the string still pulls off fretboard at times. My tech has seen this before and is going to redrill the tailpiece holes (at no more cost as we started looking at this during class) I just need to get back there and drop if off. I’ve read elsewhere that this even happens on some L5s