-
....and I don’t know which one to get. Google search didn’t help much. Please advise me.
-
03-18-2019 10:25 AM
-
The owners manual has that info:
https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/O...l_all_revC.pdf
It says: 2A, 125V (100-120V versions); F1A, 250V (230-240V versions).
-
Indeed, from the manual:
FUSE TYPE: 2A, 125V (100-120V versions) F1A, 250V (230-240V versions)
https://www.fmicassets.com/Damroot/O...l_all_revC.pdf
I have used these as replacements in my DRRI:
Pack of 5 AGC 2A 250v Fast Quick Blow (Fast Acting) Glass Fuses, 6x30mm (1/4 inch x 1-1/4 inch), F2A 2 amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-
Fuses are marked with the amperage and voltage. The replacement should be identical, or nearly so. You can get by temporarily with a smaller amperage rating, but that one may blow again. Don't use a larger rating, because damage could result. The purpose of the fuse is to fail so that other components don't. If the proper fuse blows repeatedly, get the amp serviced, because there is a problem somewhere.
-
It has been blowing repeatedly. I’ve been taking it to a guy that actually removed the second fuse (?), saying it is superfluous. I did a Google search and found someone that has very good reviews and I’m headed out that way in a few minutes. This amp has really given me a lot of grief over the years that I’ve had it.
-
Hope you sort out the issue. The fuse blew in my DRRI only when the rectifier tube went out, which I was able to sort out.
-
Originally Posted by El Fundo
steven
-
The most important number on a fuse is the current do not go above that.
The next is the voltage do not go lower. above is ok
The voltage rating is designed to suppress any arcing that may occur when blowing, some really high voltage fuses are filled with sand.
Fuses may not protect the equipment but are there to keep the darned thing from catching fire.
Unless the engineer that designed the circuit eliminates a fuse. DO NOT do it.
A bad connection in the fuse holder can be a source of premature failure. Crimped and push on connectors when not done right or corroded can be a source of heat and failure.
-
I have an original 1965 DR and it required a 2A slo blo fuse, not fast blo. Don't know if this changed in the re-issue.
-
DRRI service manual: http://www.ampwares.com/schematics/6..._Reverb_RI.pdf
”FUSE QA 1-1/4X1/4 250V 2 AMP ...”
Last edited by Geechnyc; 03-19-2019 at 08:42 AM.
-
I always have extra tubes around..for a tube amp owner I feel it is essential.I'd get some spare fuses, then try the power tubes. If it blows you can narrow it down if you want or just replace both. Or if it has a rectifier tube and not a SS set up try that one too. I've had rectifier and power tubes cause fuse blowing.
5 Guitars - Neck Pickup - Jazzblues: Danocaster,...
Today, 04:40 AM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos