Ibanez GB10 vs Gibson ES-335

[rpguitar]

Some Things That Make Guitars Cost More, But Not Necessarily Better:

Ebony > rosewood
Binding > no binding
Gold hardware > chrome/nickel hardware
Abalone inlay > pearl inlay > basic dots or no inlay
Carved woods > laminated woods
Lacquer finishes > Polyurethane finishes
Made in USA > Made in EU or Japan > Made in Korea/China/etc.
Name brand pickups > Asian copies
Classic model > Hybrid or unique design (applies mainly to Gibson/Fender)
Luthier made > small shop > factory custom shop > factory standard
Artist signature model > non-signature, standard model

Anyone can block the tremolo on a random Strat without paying for a Clapton model.

[R Neil]

My take ...

1) To get really good takes a LOT of time on the instrument. Which means a LOT of strains on hand, wrist, elbows and shoulders.

If the neck size and shape along with frets and setup don't fit your fingers/body, you will get pains. And have to stop playing.

Which means playing enough different guitars each enough to find what just is easier, what *feels* good to play.

2) What sound do you want? Going through players you like the sound of can give good ideas for body and pickup types to try. Will you be playing more acoustic or amped?

3) What you like to see is part of it. No question if it's just pretty to you you'll pick it up more.

When you find a guitar that feels glorious in the hands, sounds right, and is pretty ... well, you won't need our advice anymore!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[rpjazzguitar]

I don't think I know which components actually make a guitar better.

The quality of the hardware matters, but switches and pickups and wiring are easy to replace. Tuners are harder.

The construction of the guitar clearly matters, but I can get a good sound out of my cheap guitar. I did replace the neck pickup and it had replacement tuners when I bought it, used.

Some guitars stay in tune better than others. That matters. But, my cheapie stays in tune as good or better than any guitar I've had.
In fact, this cheapie Strat copy stays in tune (with the tremelo bar in use) quite well, whereas my genuine made in the USA Fender Strat was completely useless until I locked the floating bridge down. It simply would not stay anywhere near in tune.

I think the way the frets are installed matters -- with some cheapie guitars having frets pop out. But, I've never had that problem on any guitar I've used.

I suspect the neck joint is very important for a variety of reasons, but, again, I don't know if it really correlates with price.

I do think that there is value in playing a guitar you think is aesthetically appealing.

All that said, where I've ended up is looking for the right tool for the job. It has taken a long time to come to that. Now the issues are just a few: Can I get my sound out of the guitar (which requires that the upper register not be tinny)? Is it easy on my arthritic hands? Will it stay in tune?

I don't know why I can get my sound from one guitar and not from another, other than I need a humbucker. Easy on the hands is slim neck, good access to upper frets and a 12-14 fingerboard radius. I don't know what makes them stay in tune. My battered old Yamaha cheapie stays in tune better than my new Comins. The Comins is okay, but I have to adjust it a little more often. I don't know why.

[mr quick]

Someone mentioned the epi sheraton II, so I got mine out. First time I've played it since last winter. What a great guitar this is!

[pingu]

the best guitar is the one that's comfortable to you ...

You will play it a lot , get better , play more
you will get better .... repeat

Important note .... do yourself a huge favor

GET IT SET UP first by a good Luthier ....

[John A.]

Well, what is the difference between the same "looking" guitars on a wall that are 1,200, 2,000, 3,500, or 5,500 dollars? This is my biggest problem, I don't know what they're offering or if I need it. I heard Clapton's Fender Strats have a wood block under the bridge to keep it stable, I'm assuming for better sustain. Well, do I get better tuning pegs, sustain, and electronics for the extra money? Again, I'm not asking you guys to pick the guitar for me...but educate me on components in a guitar that make a guitar better.

So, taking 335s as an example, Gibson has a baseline production model made in their Memphis factory, and then a series of increasingly expensive ones that Gibson claims are faithful custom shop reproductions of desirable /collectible vintage versions. The differences are subtle (in some cases cosmetic), and the more expensive ones are only better to those who actually prefer them, which you might not.

Gibson has a business strategy - sell multiple versions of the same thing at different price points and with different gimmicks to hook different customers. More expensive is marketed as better or more special, but that doesn't necessarily mean it is for your purposes.

All Gibson "PAF" style humbuckers are fundamentally the same, with very subtle differences in how they sound, despite the fact that there a zillion models sold and ad copy claiming huge differences. None is "better" than another. Tuning pegs? There are two kinds - working ones and broken ones. Frets? Different sizes and shapes, and purely a matter personal preference.

There's nothing wrong with preferring the cheaper guitar or the more expensive one, but don't be led astray by price alone. You have to try stuff to figure out what you like.

John

[whiskey02]

Guitarboy,
Do you have a decent guitarshop/repairman near you? For the time being I think the wisest thing you could do is get a set of .11 or .12 flatwounds and take them to your shop and have the jack repaired and the guitar set up with the new strings. You may be very surprised at what you can get out of the guitar you already own. A poorly soldered or failed input jack does is no reason to walk away from a guitar. There's a good chance this guitar will be just as good as anything else for you and at the very least, it'll give you something satisfactory to use while you learn more about what you want and what other guitars may or may not offer you.
A strat is a somewhat refined tele; close enough that any "jazz tele" advice you come across is equally applicable for a strat. Strat is much more comfortable imho. Take a look at this.

[Tal_175]

This might give you an idea about the differences between cheap and expensive guitars:

[KirkP]

I’d suggest starting off by getting that Strat fixed. Find the best tech you can and get both the electronics and fretboard in top playing condition. I prefer to keep the springs tight enough to disable the vibrato. You’ll find it easier to stay in tune that way, but it does change the tone a bit. You can play jazz just fine on a Strat. Examples:

[Knuckles]

I don't think I've ever came across an unscrupulous guitar salesman. Some are douches or fools, but they tend to be OK people in my experience.

Love the post about trying everything. So true. I had the scenario happen to me exactly as described. I played a particular guitar once a week at guitar center. Every week I was shocked that it was still on the used rack. Loved it every time. It is now in my music room even though I have two others that are similar. When you find the right one, you will know it.

[rpjazzguitar]

Thanks for posting this video.

I learned a bunch of stuff from it.

As a guy who has gigged with a cheap guitar (although mine has replacement tuners and a replacement neck pickup), I'd add one thing.

There are two issues here, in a way. One is the reliability of the instrument. Will the hardware break? Will the frets come out of the neck? Will the neck be appropriately straight and adjustable? Those are basic quality issues that make the guitar likely to be more playable for longer. '

In contrast, the cheaper pickup construction (assuming the pickup is going to fail) doesn't mean that it's going to sound worse. You might prefer it. The same is true for the cheaper wood and some other components.

A related issue is spec. My American made Fender has a 9.5 radius, which I eventually figured out hindered my technique and I couldn't adjust to it. My cheapie has 14, which feels much better.

My cheapie is a Yamaha Pacifica 112 Strat copy. I think it's a great guitar. It doesn't sound quite as good as the Fender, but it's very close and way cheaper.

[Guitartobuy]

I just went to the local guitar store today. The young kid helping me knew NOTHING about guitars. They have a terrific selection; only three Gibson 335's, running about 1799, so they are not top end. Good selection of Martins. Lots of Fenders, none above the 1800 dollar price range. The top end Gibson Les Pauls were 3,299.
We used to have a great guy who had a local store, but he stocked off brand amps and weird guitars that I've never heard of before and he setup guitars for a lot of bands in town. But he went out of business. The kid tried to steer me towards their Gretsch hollow bodies, and nothing personal, but I've played a couple at Guitar Center before and they never sound great no matter which amp I used. Still need a guide to the reality of components I guess. Thanks for the input.

[Bluedawg]

Finding archtops to sample can be a challenge unless you live in one of the mega metro areas

Guitar Center usually has some of the less expensive Ibanez Artcores in stocks .. at least the ones near me do


Hard to go wrong with a Ibanez George Benson guitar .. Japanese models are better quality, but even the one's made in other parts of Asia are pretty good

Keep an eye out for good deals .. and keep visiting your local stores to see what pops up .. you never know what you'll find

Good Luck

[snoskier63]

There is no such thing as best. Go to all the stores and play everything within your price range. Buy the one that feels the best to your hands, and sounds the best to your ears.