The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #126

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    Yes Gibson take note. I can remember the days when customer service was of no.1 concern.
    Remember full service gas stations ? Windows washed, tires and oil checked, and gas pumped while you got a ice cold bottle of coke for 10 cents out of the coke machine.

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #127

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    Joe, it's really no big deal, I thought that if
    we appealed to the CEO/ owner who is
    Zdenka Infeld , we might get a more
    sympathetic response ,and if one asks in
    a reasonable fashion it is more likely.
    Regrettably the same ploy does not work
    with Gibson as we know to our cost. It
    will be pleasing if TI's do respond positively
    we can but try.

  4. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by vinnyv1k
    Remember full service gas stations ? Windows washed, tires and oil checked, and gas pumped while you got a ice cold bottle of coke for 10 cents out of the coke machine.

    That is a level of luxury we have never experienced, quite the reverse, I drove into the station recently.,
    made a circular motion to indicate a full wash was needed, before the electric window closed I got the
    full face jet wash . As you will imagine my wife found it hilarious all day. I wouldn't mind but
    I had only just taken a shower ! A bottle of coke would have gone down well.

  5. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis D
    The string girth is the factor for me too...
    Just curious. Is there a reason why "girth" is mentioned? It isn't something that I see for guitar string specs. I usually just see gauge, core geometry, wrap geometry, materials, etc.

  6. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by lammie200
    Just curious. Is there a reason why "girth" is mentioned? It isn't something that I see for guitar string specs. I usually just see gauge, core geometry, wrap geometry, materials, etc.

    ....another poster used that expression.......'gauge' is of course more accurate......

  7. #131

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    Ahem. Girth: size; bulk

    Yeah, I know, I ran out of synonyms for gauge.

    Wrap geometry ??

  8. #132

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter C
    Ahem. Girth: size; bulk

    Yeah, I know, I ran out of synonyms for gauge.

    Wrap geometry ??
    Although I don't consider myself average, I am sure that the average American knows what girth means. We do have food eating champions here in the USA, after all.

  9. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
    http://www.thomastik-infeld.com/site...er_06_13sc.pdf

    Happily for those on the right side of The Pond, Elixir coated plain steels are cheap. Reserve the T-I plains for slicing cheese.
    Just ordered 40 Elixirs from Strings By Mail. They DO ship over the pond & the shipping cost is affordable ....

  10. #134

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis D
    ....another poster used that expression.......'gauge' is of course more accurate......

    not if talking to a waitress at the bar.

  11. #135

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    Strings E and B (unwound strings)

    I am (well was) using Thomastik 13s and 12s flat wounds for more than 5 years and on 3 different instruments at the same time. This situation was similar than the very first girl, when without experience, you have no comparison yet, but this lasted a bit longer :-) (again 5 years). I had always problems with the E and B strings, they sound out of tune, even one note itself! like not only the note, but other close frequencies were sounding even when muting all the rest of the strings and the and the string parts over the nut and bridge. It was impossible to prove any sophisticated chromatic tuner, they all said all OK, so I really did not know what's the problem

    First I thought its the instrument (Ibanez AM95). When further two instruments (EPI Joe Pass, and D'Angelico EXL-1) exhibited the very same, it drove me nut for a few month, but I thought time to stop paranoia, let's play music instead, so I used to it, and lived with it.

    (please do not speculate on the instrument, the necks and trus rod were just perfect, I tried various actions also, higher especially, I changed even the bridge on the AM95 to a TonePros $150(!) nothing helped on any instruments)

    It turned out: That was always the Thomastik E and B. Accidentally I got a 10 pack of D'Angelico Electrozinc as a gift. (It is manufactured by D'Addario). I put on of them on my Epi and all the out of tune effect has gone. I played very rarely on the Epi, preferred the instead the EXL-1, so I did not remembered really the previous feeling on the Epi with the Thomastik. After a few month I realized, now I prefer the Epi over the Exl-1, because I use the E and B and love what I am hearing, instead a bad feeling. So I changed on the EXL-1 from Thomestik to the other. Well, the same: All the bad feelings on E and B gone like a train.

    Strings A and E (lowest flat wound strings)

    Note: This is a very different problem, than on the high strings The manufacturing errors are obvious here. All you need is a chromatic tuner, but you are warned: You will not happy what you will see on Thomastik A and E.

    The fact is, that note by note there are -+5 cents out of tune almost randomly. I mean, say you properly tune open E +- 1 cents. Then say 5th fret is +5 cents sharp, but 7th fret C is -1 cent flat and so on, 12th fret is sharp again by 6 cents. For the A it is the completely different, say the 5 th fret is flat, etc, so it is definitely not the instrument. (and again, I have three instruments, on A and E all exhibits various random +-5 cents out of tune using Thomastik.

    This is relative easy to explain: The frequency is depending on the weight of the string. If the weight is not proportional with the length then the frequency will not be exactly the required. (with other words: the weight of the string is not equal on its entire length... shame)

    After the abandoming Thomastik and switching to other stings this is also gone. I did not use tuner this time, I am confident enough, I could here if it would be serious problem, as I hear before.

    ***

    Conclusion: I spent 5 years with Thomastik, and did not know there is better, my bad. I automatically thought: It must be better if is costs more than twice.

  12. #136

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    That's like women and cosmetics. Most think cosmetics can't possibly be good if they're cheap. But multiple experiments prove otherwise. Given different cosmetic brands to try without knowing the brand, just anonymous cosmetics, most choose the cheaper brands as being longer lasting and looking better. In general, the quality of cosmetics is inversely proportional to cost. Guitar players may exhibit some of the same tendencies as women in general.

  13. #137

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabor
    ... Conclusion: I spent 5 years with Thomastik, and did not know there is better, my bad ...
    So, what brand is better, in your opinion?

  14. #138

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    I just found this thread today and it was interesting to me because I just had a set of TI Swing 12's installed during a setup on an Eastman AR403CE. When I got it back I was surprised that the first 2 strings were gold, but I have no experience with TI strings so thought nothing of it. However the more I play it the more I realize that the first 2 strings sound extra tinny compared to what I am used to, and I don't like the sound (perhaps this is what Gabor is referring to above?). I am just a home player and not very good yet but even I noticed the sound difference. Unfortunately (??) I bought a second set of these strings when I bought these, and now I am not certain that I want them. I guess for me it is not really important and I will just change back to Chromes when these 2 sets wear out.

  15. #139

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    Quote Originally Posted by M-ster
    So, what brand is better, in your opinion?
    I switched to D'Angelico Electrozinc. ( Strings | D'Angelico Guitars ) The E and B are amazing, what was always the weak point of TI (including the horribly priced GB sets).

    Those strings are manufactured by D'Addario for D'Angelico. Besides the instant acoustically benefit, amplified i'ts like a pickup upgrade (imho), and not because they louder.

    However only round wound version exist, so some may instantly reject idea to try them.

  16. #140

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    Quote Originally Posted by rdwhitti
    I just found this thread today and it was interesting to me because I just had a set of TI Swing 12's installed during a setup on an Eastman AR403CE. When I got it back I was surprised that the first 2 strings were gold, but I have no experience with TI strings so thought nothing of it. However the more I play it the more I realize that the first 2 strings sound extra tinny compared to what I am used to, and I don't like the sound (perhaps this is what Gabor is referring to above?). I am just a home player and not very good yet but even I noticed the sound difference. Unfortunately (??) I bought a second set of these strings when I bought these, and now I am not certain that I want them. I guess for me it is not really important and I will just change back to Chromes when these 2 sets wear out.
    Here is the official Thomastik answer from the thread:
    Thomastik-Infeld tinplated strings?

    Btw both sounds equally bad, I tried them, ordered singles, total of 4 E and 4 B 0.12, 013 and 0.16, 0.17 with both brass and tin. All exhibit the effect what I described.


    Dear Mark,

    Thanks for your e-mail. Apologies for the delay in our answer.
    The tin plating on the plane string is a standard coating for plane guitar strings. In our regullar set we use brass plating on the plane string. Both coating (tin & brass) are there to avoid corrosion but they both have similar effect on the sound (sound similar). We mark the tin plated strings with a "T" - e.g. brass plated set: GB112; tin plated set: GB112T. For a better overview, please find our catalogue attached.
    I hope this helps.

    Best regards,

    Heinz Kovacs
    Research & Development
    Diehlgasse 27 A-1051 Vienna
    phone +43-1-545 12 62 / 18 fax +43-1-545 30 42
    email kovacs@thomastik-infeld.com
    Welcome to | Thomastik-Infeld Vienna

  17. #141

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    [QUOTE=Gabor;870740]Strings E and B (unwound strings)

    I am (well was) using Thomastik 13s and 12s flat wounds for more than 5 years and on 3 different instruments at the same time. This situation was similar than the very first girl, when without experience, you have no comparison yet, but this lasted a bit longer :-) (again 5 years). I had always problems with the E and B strings, they sound out of tune, even one note itself! like not only the note, but other close frequencies were sounding even when muting all the rest of the strings and the and the string parts over the nut and bridge. It was impossible to prove any sophisticated chromatic tuner, they all said all OK, so I really did not know what's the problem


    This problem has arisen on a number of occasions, and I took it upon myself to write to the CEO
    of TI, in brief their response suggessted that we use the Tin coated strings.
    However, our good friend here Vinny1k suggested , discard the E and B strings instead , replacing
    them with Elixirs. It is a worthwhile exercise. I have used TI's for 20+ years on all of my guitars
    currently 7 Gibsons . I have of course tried other makes but return to the Ti flats ,11s 12's or 13's
    using the elixirs instead on the E and B.
    Most jazz players prefer Ti's for their lower tension and longevity ., you may disagree , just my 2p.

    regards Silverfoxx

  18. #142

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    I tend to prefer TI since I got introduced to them 5 years ago, I am exclusively playing JS112 and so far could not be annoyed by the cents variation they might have. I do change the 1st and 2nd with other brands once in a while and a full set can last me a year or two being a living room player...
    So far from all the sets I bought, I could get a pretty good intonation that my ears can live with.
    Guitar intonation, tuning and even resulting radius is at best an approximation with guitars even more if using a non custom to gauge specific fixed saddles bridge as opposed to a TOM for instance.

  19. #143

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    Wow , I can’t believe so many people find the TI gold color plains to be a problem- After a few decades of guitar playing, discovering the TI Be-bops - is the first time I’ve accepted paying higher $$ for strings - I love them!!! Btw I discovered them partly because it’s the perfect gauges for me - also liking plain 3rds on .012 sets, which I always had to swap out before...

  20. #144

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    I just changed a set of JS112 flatwounds on my semi. After I'd roughly
    tuned them and snipped the ends I discovered I'd reversed the fourth
    and fifth strings, so the D string was now too short and the A string
    really stretched. I checked another set and they also had the strings
    reversed. I must've changed hundreds of sets over the years - change
    the treble strings, turn the pack over and start with the bass strings -
    I've never had to check the factory had put them in the right order
    before. I wrote to TI and they thanked me for pointing this out and
    that they'd get in touch with their quality control team. No offer of
    replacement strings, just a mention that single strings are available
    for purchase. It's not a big deal, just a sign of the times. Last
    week one of my Monster Jazz leads crapped out - so much for the
    lifetime guarantee there. I remember the father of one of my school
    friends who would always send back products that had malfunctioned -
    he'd write "I have been using your products quite happily for many
    years, however on this occasion.." - and quite often the company -
    Parker pens, Black and Decker etc would send him a replacement.
    I was most impressed when he got sent a new hedgetrimmer. I
    liked those times.

  21. #145

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    I’ve just had an unexpected outcome with
    my TI strings

    for years I’ve used TI Jazz flat 13s on
    my 24.75” jazz box and been very happy

    I just got my first 25.5” scale guitar
    so i went down a gauge to TI flat 12s

    The G string is ok surprisingly
    but i’m finding the B string (16)
    too tough to bend

    I’m gonna put a 15 on the B and see how
    that goes ....

  22. #146

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    My solution would be if these strings came w/ instructions. Due to the length of the strings & where the silk actually starts, the Jazz Swing Strings are designed specifically for Archtop Guitars, hopefully they'll make a version for Solid Body Electric Guitars & Acoustic Guitars in the future.

  23. #147

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    Why does it seem there's so many reported problems with these expensive strings but almost never hear complaints about cheaper strings QC?

  24. #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by wintermoon
    Why does it seem there's so many reported problems with these expensive strings but almost never hear complaints about cheaper strings QC?
    This photo of Jackie Kennedy falling off her horse caused her to complain to JFK about the press's intrusions into her life. He replied, "But Jackie, when the first lady falls on her @ss, it's news."

    Thomastik Infeld String Problems-jackie_falling_off_her_horse-jpg

    Like Jackie, TIs are considered frivolous, high maintenance, expensive, and worse by most people who haven't used them. Any issues, problems, or simple unhappiness are rapidly magnified and publicized. It's just not news if a cheap string fails - we toss it, replace it with another cheap string, and keep on playing. Like everybody else who plays a fair amount, I've had strings over the years that broke on first mount, had poor intonation, felt wonky etc etc. But when strings were $4 a set, I (like most everybody else) just wrote it off without a thought. When a Ti fails, it's a big deal.

    I tried a set of TI Jazz Swings about 2 years ago because everybody who loves them really loves them.....and because they were on sale. I loved them - sound, feel, performance etc were all perfect for me. They were on my Ibanez AF207 for a year+ when I decided to change them out. You may remember the thread I started with a blind recorded comparison of the old ones and the new ones - half of those who posted a guess guessed wrong, and I could have left the old ones on for months more. So I started using them on all my guitars, and I still love them.

    I discovered that they're very sensitive to locking tuners (at least to the Sperzels I've used for years). If the locker is more than finger tight, the string may well break the first time you loosen or remove it for any reason. I had 2 TIs break like that in the wrap and 1 in the core - and all 3 broke in the post hole where they were crimped by the end of the locking pin. I tried wrapping the strings as though the tuner were not a locker, which worked fine but left the locking screw loose enough to vibrate and cause some odd resonances and buzzing. I thought I had a broken truss rod the first time I heard the noise because there was a loud rattle when I shook the guitar. All of a sudden it dawned on me to check the tuners, and all 7 locking screws were loose. Finger tightening them very gently solved that problem, and I haven't had a broken string in the months since i discovered this. But I also remembered that the same thing happened to a few Chromes and plain Es and Bs on the Carvin I had for many years - and it also had Sperzels that I now realized I regularly overtightened.

    My archtops have their original nonlocking tuners, and all 3 (AF, Eastman Jazz Elite 16" and Eastman 810CE7 17") are strung with TI JS113s with 13 and 17 D'A NYXL plains I get in bulk. I've never broken a string on any of them. So when I can get a year+ of pleasure and regular playing from a set of TI JS113s plus an 0.075 Chrome 7th and two $1.50 plains, I'm happy to pay $22.50 a set (the still current price at Strings and Beyond when they have their 10% off sale, which is right now) for the TIs even though I replace the plains and stick the unused TI E & B in my gig bags to carry as spares.

    As for the admonition not to cut off the silk wrapped end, I put two fairly tight but still rounded 180 degree bends in the end of the string sticking out of the post before cutting it with a top quality, sharp side cutter. A good cutter will bite right through the wrap without loosening it much, and a firm bend a few mm down from the cut end seems to hold the wrap for me. It all has to be done deliberately, carefully, and only once. If I were to somehow bend it in the wrong place or have to unbend it to adjust it, I know the risk of breakage is higher so I'd toss it. I haven't had to cannibalize a new set yet, but I'm sure I will one day - it's still worth it to me to use TIs. I think they're that good.

  25. #149

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    Quote Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit



    I discovered that they're very sensitive to locking tuners (at least to the Sperzels I've used for years). If the locker is more than finger tight, the string may well break the first time you loosen or remove it for any reason. I had 2 TIs break like that in the wrap and 1 in the core - and all 3 broke in the post hole where they were crimped by the end of the locking pin. I tried wrapping the strings as though the tuner were not a locker, which worked fine but left the locking screw loose enough to vibrate and cause some odd resonances and buzzing. I thought I had a broken truss rod the first time I heard the noise because there was a loud rattle when I shook the guitar. All of a sudden it dawned on me to check the tuners, and all 7 locking screws were loose. Finger tightening them very gently solved that problem, and I haven't had a broken string in the months since i discovered this. But I also remembered that the same thing happened to a few Chromes and plain Es and Bs on the Carvin I had for many years - and it also had Sperzels that I now realized I regularly overtightened.

    My archtops have their original nonlocking tuners, and all 3 (AF, Eastman Jazz Elite 16" and Eastman 810CE7 17") are strung with TI JS113s with 13 and 17 D'A NYXL plains I get in bulk. I've never broken a string on any of them. So when I can get a year+ of pleasure and regular playing from a set of TI JS113s plus an 0.075 Chrome 7th and two $1.50 plains, I'm happy to pay $22.50 a set (the still current price at Strings and Beyond when they have their 10% off sale, which is right now) for the TIs even though I replace the plains and stick the unused TI E & B in my gig bags to carry as spares.

    As for the admonition not to cut off the silk wrapped end, I put two fairly tight but still rounded 180 degree bends in the end of the string sticking out of the post before cutting it with a top quality, sharp side cutter. A good cutter will bite right through the wrap without loosening it much, and a firm bend a few mm down from the cut end seems to hold the wrap for me. It all has to be done deliberately, carefully, and only once. If I were to somehow bend it in the wrong place or have to unbend it to adjust it, I know the risk of breakage is higher so I'd toss it. I haven't had to cannibalize a new set yet, but I'm sure I will one day - it's still worth it to me to use TIs. I think they're that good.
    +1

    I also use TIs and Locking ts...I did break a Chrome "D" but luckily never a Ti. I just had the frets redone and my luthier not only put back the Ti strings on (I asked him to 'cause I had just bought them ...$$) but also trimmed the low E and A short of the cloth wrap ( too long) ...no issues... I also only finger tighten the lockers just so they don't make noise...Just before the Tis I had GHS on and they were tighter in the locks and when I removed them the wound strings broke in several places , they did not handle the locking tuners well ....From now on I carefully wrap (i don' t bend the strings in the post but rather do and under over wrap ) Looks neat and stays in tune.....

    S

  26. #150

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    What if they included instructions on how to install them properly? They need to refine the formula so they can work w/ locking tuners.