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I've got a no-frills ES 335 that I've been playing off and on for about 8 years. It inspired me to by some fake books and dive into the jazz harmonic vocabulary. I love the tone and the versatility. Four years ago I upgraded to Lollar Imperials and that also expanded the tonal range of the instrument. Here's my issue... the guitar just doesn't sit well in my lap. It keeps moving on me... not a huge problem, but it's become more annoying lately. My attention was drawn to the CS 336 as I was watching a Jon Herington interview on YouTube. What are your thoughts about going from a 335 to a 336? I know it's smaller and solid, not laminate - but how about ergonomics and tone. I do have a nice Heritage Eagle so I've got that area covered.
Is it worth considering trading/selling my 335?
I would be grateful for your thoughts.
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12-23-2016 10:58 AM
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What do you mean by it not sitting well and moving? Neck heavy? Lower body heavy? Or is it sliding away from you toward your knee?
Last edited by Woody Sound; 12-23-2016 at 12:25 PM.
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Lower body heavy... neck keeps lifting on me and I have to reposition the guitar as I play. Sorry for the lack of clarity in my original post.
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Use a strap.
Problem solved.
HTH,
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Okay... I should have been able to figure that one out for myself. Nothing like posting on a forum to gain some humility.
That part set aside... does anyone have experience playing a cs 336 that would like to share. Thanks!
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Here ya go, tailor made for you!
FDP - Forum
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Thanks Woody! That IS helpful.
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I've had many 335's and also had an ES-336 and ES-339. Depending on the tone you're after it might not be too much of a departure, but the issue for me is size. The 336 is a 13" body - that's the size of a Les Paul, which was too small for me (I'm over 6' tall).
Here's a Gibson article on the 3 models.
The ES-335 and ES-339: What’s the Difference?
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339 is closer to a 335. 336 is solid/carved, 339 is laminate.
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Wow, I had no idea. I always assumed they were about 14"-15".
Originally Posted by MaxTwang
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Yes, the 336 is 13" and the 339 is 14.25" lower bout. 335 is 16" and my tele is about 12.5". I'd love to hear how that 13" carved top sounds and plays.
Last edited by vernon; 12-23-2016 at 05:30 PM.
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I had an Epi Dot and didn't find it very comfortable for playing while seated.
I can't comment on the 336 or 339--don't know for sure they would get you the sound you need. But for ergonomics and tone I am a fan of single-cutaway thinlines.
I have a Gibson 135 which I love, especially since I strung it with TI Jazz 12's for the first time. It's a BIT heavy, around 9 lbs IIRC, but not a problem playing seated at all. It is a semi with a balsa block--I get quite a mellow tone out of it, versatile for jazz and rock and blues but not jangly like 335's at all.
I also have a Peerless Sunset, which is fully hollow and a really smooth jazz player. Very light--just over 6 lbs, so a real ergonomic benefit.
Finally, I have always liked the Godin Premiere. Also a semi with an innovative arched block which covers jazz as well as more rock-oriented applications.
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I had a CS336 for a few years. The sound is similar to the 335. The issue I had with it, it was extremely neck heavy, even when strapped on. I went back to a 335 and have not regretted it at all.
As always, play one before buying if possible.
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I played a 335 for years. Additionally, I grew up around vintage 335 guitars. Seems nearly every neighbor had one, from the time I became aware of guitars in '62, until I got mine. Meanwhile, the guy that I play blues with over the last 20+ years owns a '64 335, a '67 335, and a 336. He gigs with all three, so I play them regularly.
The 335 and 336 are different beasts. The "six" isn't a small 335. I find that it plays and sounds more like a heavily chambered Les Paul. The 335 is simply the other iconic Gibson...not counting arch tops.
To me, there are exactly two universal guitars, i.e., guitars that can reliably be used for all musical genres where you'd bring an electric: the Fender Telecaster and the Gibson ES-335.
Me? I favor the 335 over the 336, but I play a Telecaster these days.
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I do very much appreciate your time, thoughts, and experience. You have helped me through this day of temporary new guitar infatuation. In the process I have put a strap on that 335 (yes, indeed, it works fine)... and I have come to the conclusion that, if it means selling or trading my 335, I probably won't continue down this 336 road any further. Thanks again for your help.
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I don't have a 335 -- but I've always wanted one. There have been a few nice ones come through the local shops, but I haven't been able to grab one up yet. But I did buy a great 135 a while ago -- and so far it has quenched my 335 gas . .
I get your ergonomic issue, though I don't have a problem with the 335 body style. But I feel the same way about a Les Paul. I love the sound, but I hate the way they slide down my lap when I'm sitting on the couch! And no, I don't want to wear a strap! I don't have that same problem with the 335 or 135 or lots of other guitars. . . . For me, it's an LP thing, which has fortunately kept me out of the LP market
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I'm sorry if my answer sounded snarky, but TBH, a long time ago I've been exactly where you were, wondering about the same thing. Originally Posted by vernon
I actually got the idea from seeing pro musicians in session, all sitting down and all using a strap.
The other possibility I've found suitable if you don't want the strap at any cost, is by using a footrest and adopting the classical guitar position.
HTH,
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Oh, I wouldn't trade my venerable ES335-TD for such a problem :
But it's me - and I play standing still most of the time, using a strap...
Well, I must recongnize that when I play seated, I always use a strap : no matter the model of guitar, I find that it helps the balance of the instrument on my lap.
Each of my guitars have her personal strap, made from leather, set at the correct lenght. You may think that I am crazy, but I consider the strap to be an important element of playing comfort...
So yes, using a strap would be a possible good solution to your ES335 imbalance issue, as mentioned by LtKojak above.
A+!
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If you ever get the chance to play either a CS336 or its upscale brother, CS356, the one constant is how different each of them feel and play. Most of the series had '60's thin-ish neck profiles and varied quite a bit in their weight (most likely due to the one piece, solid Mahogany back/sides. Some had plain tops and others had figured tops, coded with an 'F' in the serial number. Since all CS models were 'Custom Shop' products, there were many special runs for top Gibson dealers. And during their early years a small number were special ordered via the old Gibson Custom Direct program, where you could basically order the guitar of your dreams...and pay a premium for the privilege.
So try to get your hands on one rather than order sight unseen if possible. To me they are an in between guitar, sounding like a 335-Les Paul love child. How they play and feel depends solely on the individual guitar for reasons stated above.
This CS356 was a sweet guitar, but sold it since I couldn't manage the slim neck, and neck dive.
Here's my CS356 Custom Direct, that is spec'd out with LP unbound headstock, chunky neck, abalone inlays and Bigsby. It's a fantastic and unique playing/sounding guitar, that balances perfectly on a strap.
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That is one sweet looking guitar! Abalone inlay work is incredible!! I'd love to plug that one in. Thanks for your wisdom and experience.
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I'd keep the 335, and make it work for you. So many 100K guitarists have. And the 339 , 336 question is best answered by YOU. I've heard them all. The tone depends on WHO is playing them. And it depends on each individual guitar. One guy I know plays a 336 and a Strat with Lace Sensors. I think his Strat delivers "his" tone much better. Another guy I know sounds equally great on his 355 or 356. Fingerpicking is his thing for blues, so, it's really his fingers.
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Man... I've played guitar for 20 years (although you'd be hard pressed to believe it if you heard me) and I never ever considered a strap sitting down until I started studying with some guy that INSISTED on a more classical "lower bout between the legs" style. I played for 10 years straight using a foot stool under my RIGHT leg and propping the guitar up on it like some sort of high knee-d strummer. It worked... until it didn't.
Anyway, the strap changed everything. My playing improved and all of a sudden, the darn shape didn't really matter. In fact, I could move away from the traditional tele/strat shapes because my new world opened up.
Anyway, get a strap, ride high and change your life. Oh yeah, try to find light guitars
Good luck!
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+1 on previous entry. Wear a strap when seated and it doesn't matter what the guitar shape/size is. Without a strap, I generally don't like the size and shape of Les Paul guitars. With a strap, however, they are really nice guitars--they aren't these tiny, toy guitars way down there on your leg when seated. With a strap and the Les Paul in a "classical" position, sky's the limit.
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Just to play devil's advocate, I know at least a few guitarist/bassists with pretty bad chronic back/neck/shoulder problems from years of the instruments hanging from their necks.
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I understand what the OP is getting at. I have an Ibanez Lee Ritenour 335 that sounds great but feels awkward. The strap helps but it is never truly comfortable. Now I also have an Epiphone 335 Pro and it is great. Somehow with the Lee Ritenour it is as if the waist bout is too far forward and the lower bout is too big and heavy thus tilting the neck up. It is ok for standing (that is what Lee did) but I want to sit with the thing. I also have an Ibanez AS 73 that sits fine but I don't like it as much as my Epi. The Gibson and Epi 339s are very comfortable but lose some resonance.
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