My Gibson ES-175CC is actually an ES-175D!

**Greentone** · 10-19-2016, 07:00 PM

The CC isn't as versatile as the 175D--by a long shot. However, I don't play a 175 or an L5, etc., for versatility. I play those kinds of guitars for mainstream jazz. For versatility I used to play a ES-335, Stratocaster, or Telecaster. These days, it's a Telecaster all the way. It's the most versatile guitar I've ever owned.

The Telecaster is even my "pick it up and play chord melody" guitar. However, I still want a guitar for the really beautiful chord melody stuff and the on top of the beat bop stuff. (Think Benson) For that I play my Super Eagle or my Unity carved body archtops.

The ES-175/CC would fill that spot nicely, too, if I had one.

**ESCC** · 10-20-2016, 10:32 AM

[QUOTE=ESCC;704136]Interesting, I've not "scrutinized" the label inside of my 1979 CC and I've had it for 36 years LOL, I'll check it out tonight. I've kept it stock with the exception of replacing the black witches hat knobs with gold knobs.

I checked it out last night, the sticker reads 175CC. Wintermoon - no patched holes where the humbuckers used to be

**wintermoon** · 10-20-2016, 10:49 AM

[QUOTE=ESCC;704335]

Originally Posted by ESCC

Interesting, I've not "scrutinized" the label inside of my 1979 CC and I've had it for 36 years LOL, I'll check it out tonight. I've kept it stock with the exception of replacing the black witches hat knobs with gold knobs.

I checked it out last night, the sticker reads 175CC. Wintermoon - no patched holes where the humbuckers used to be

yours shouldn't have the patched holes ESC, that's only for the ones marked ES-175D

**ESCC** · 10-20-2016, 10:55 AM

[QUOTE=wintermoon;704338]

Originally Posted by ESCC

yours shouldn't have the patched holes ESC, that's only for the ones marked ES-175D

Go it.

**Dioxic** · 10-20-2016, 03:37 PM

ESCC Is yours marked second? I don't have a lot of data to back this up, but the many I've seen marked with "second" have a CC sticker and the few I've seen that aren't have the D sticker

**ESCC** · 10-20-2016, 03:49 PM

Originally Posted by Dioxic

ESCC Is yours marked second? I don't have a lot of data to back this up, but the many I've seen marked with "second" have a CC sticker and the few I've seen that aren't have the D sticker

No it's not a second. I think what you've seen is just coincidence.

**Rhayader** · 08-05-2021, 01:47 AM

Not sure if this is the right place for this, but it’s as good as anywhere I guess!

I just looked at a 175CC near me. The body is great, sounds good acoustically and through an amp, and no kerfing in the braces.

But the neck has issues. It has quite a significant upward bow, and possibly a bit of a twist (I took it to two guitar repair shops, neither of which I was particularly impressed by, who offered differing opinions).

They both said the Truss rod works, but one said it has had a some previous bad repair work that would need to be tidied up. It did show a response to minor truss-rod adjustment.

One said the bow could be straightened out with the truss rod, but the twist couldn’t be fixed.

The other said he didn’t think it was twisted or if it was it was mild (to my untrained eyes it is twisted, for what it’s worth), but the neck could be made straight with some clamping/heat application etc, but couldn’t guarantee it would work and, if it did, that it wouldn’t revert over time. I’ve done some reading on that subject, and the advice is mixed.

Anyway, parking all that aside, the seller is appreciative of these issues, and is prepared to drop the asking price.

So I think I *could* get it for a price that *may* make it worth taking the risk ? ?

I guess my question is: what USD price do people here think that should be? I mean, the risk is it can’t be fixed so it might be hard to sell later. But it does seem possibly it could be made playable at least?

Right now, I have dumped the whole idea in the too-hard basket, but I’m just wondering if you all at this excellent forum think it might be worth it for the right price…

Cheers!

P.S. Also, if anyone can recommend a good luthier in Hong Kong, I’m all ears!

**Jabberwocky** · 08-05-2021, 06:37 AM

Compression fret replacement is one way of counteracting a bowed or twisted neck to make it playable; a replane of the fretboard may be in order. Saving vintage guitars with clever refret techniques — Haze Guitars.

As for a competent luthier in HK ask Tom Lee Music. The fellows who set up Eugene Pao's PRS must know something.

**coolvinny** · 08-05-2021, 10:28 AM

First, pshaw versatility is overrated.

Second, there's a local pro jazzer who used to play a 175CC and had a glorious sound no matter the amp. Now he uses a 335 and his tone is very, very blah.

**Greentone** · 08-05-2021, 10:29 AM

Wonder why he switched?

**2bornot2bop** · 08-05-2021, 04:31 PM

That was my very first guitar. I bought it used for $1200 before there was this thing called the internet. Too bad I didn’t know how to play it.

**citizenk74** · 08-05-2021, 06:01 PM

Originally Posted by Rhayader

Not sure if this is the right place for this, but it’s as good as anywhere I guess!

I just looked at a 175CC near me. The body is great, sounds good acoustically and through an amp, and no kerfing in the braces.

But the neck has issues. It has quite a significant upward bow, and possibly a bit of a twist (I took it to two guitar repair shops, neither of which I was particularly impressed by, who offered differing opinions).

They both said the Truss rod works, but one said it has had a some previous bad repair work that would need to be tidied up. It did show a response to minor truss-rod adjustment.

One said the bow could be straightened out with the truss rod, but the twist couldn’t be fixed.

The other said he didn’t think it was twisted or if it was it was mild (to my untrained eyes it is twisted, for what it’s worth), but the neck could be made straight with some clamping/heat application etc, but couldn’t guarantee it would work and, if it did, that it wouldn’t revert over time. I’ve done some reading on that subject, and the advice is mixed.

Anyway, parking all that aside, the seller is appreciative of these issues, and is prepared to drop the asking price.

So I think I *could* get it for a price that *may* make it worth taking the risk ? ?

I guess my question is: what USD price do people here think that should be? I mean, the risk is it can’t be fixed so it might be hard to sell later. But it does seem possibly it could be made playable at least?

Right now, I have dumped the whole idea in the too-hard basket, but I’m just wondering if you all at this excellent forum think it might be worth it for the right price…

Cheers!

P.S. Also, if anyone can recommend a good luthier in Hong Kong, I’m all ears!

Good luck with this.

**jads57** · 08-05-2021, 10:33 PM

With the exception of the Historic models Gibson's are essentially whatever specs they build at the time of production. In other words you get what comes off the line at that time.
And at that time minus the darker Sunburst and C.C. pickup you essentially have a Norlin era spec ES-175 model. So the woods and neck shape and hardware would be of the late 1970's era.

I think a custom shop ES-175 from the early 1950s specs with a C.C. pickup would be great!

**coolvinny** · 08-06-2021, 02:49 AM

Originally Posted by Greentone

Wonder why he switched?

If I had to guess, I'd say it's because 175's are too deep for most people to comfortably play while standing. I think there are better in-between options, but my budget is higher than a typical pro jazzer's...