I started with a L50 in poor shape. I looked for quite some time to find a real beater that had all the original hardware and original bridge. I needed a guitar from the correct time period to have reasonably been fitted with a CC pickup when these pickups were available new.
I found this 1937 L50. The top is in 5 pieces. The back is in two but has 5 cracks that I counted.
The wood on the back was in such poor condition, from prior repairs, I would have been smarter to just replace it and make new braces. In fact this guitar was actually MISSING brace #2. No evidence of any glue, the back had never been removed and it could not have been removed through the f hole as it would have been too big.
Back reconstructed with new #2 brace. This L50, like the original ES-150/CC, has a hybrid construction. The top is carved, but the back on both is a flat piece of wood bent over slightly curved braces. The later Non-CC ES-150s have carved front and back pieces.
The CC pickup reproduction was special order and took 3 weeks to arrive. In the mean time, I cleaned up the rest of the guitar and made the bound ES-150 style pickguard. Attachment 27395
Since this will be a 'player' instrument, the neck angle had to be 'playable.' It was just marginal with the original bridge. I wanted to keep the original bridge. I improved the neck angle when I re-fitted the back. I got an extra degree or two. This was actually a big deal and a little stressful... not knowing if the guitar would be playable until the back was glued on.
That's freaking awesome, man! Great job and a real labour of love. You made something useful and desirable out of a forgotten guitar. And I approve of the groove in your video.
These are positions.
The UNT (and probably Berklee) definitions of “position” is the fret behind your middle finger. The pinkie can cheat forward one feet and the index finger can cheat backward....
The only rule I've found that works well for guitar fingerings is the "5 fret rule," i.e., cover a 5 fret span with your index finger and pinky, and you could slide up or down with your index finger...
CM7#11 with the 5th ..nice chord ! it does take a bit of practice but worth the effort..
the G lydian G F# B C#..I let the high E string ring after the chord..alot of ideas for chord melody...
Pos 1 or 2 for me
As for straplocks, I had a set of Schaller in the past (not the new ones) and didn't feel secure with them. I almost dropped a guitar because it was not completely locked
I'm...
The position 5 (and to some extend 4) makes the guitar hang more snug when standing. Positions 1 and 2 make the guitar rotate slightly away from the body especially when it comes to deeper body...
So your freind says he prefers the Korean T50 to his US made SF3? That says something !
Thanks for your thoughtful comments, very interesting.
How would you describe the sound of the Dyansonics ?...
Of course, before the interweb and forums we had Usenet and BBSs (and mailing lists) ... with far fewer people on them because connectivity wasn't as normal as it's now. No neck-specific newsgroup...
I can never understand 4 and 5. It’s right in the way of the hand when you are on the upper frets.
I’d go with 2 because you’re not drilling into the body cavity. Also if you do do, the mod is...
I've had the LJ for several years now.
Early on, I was enamored of the sound. I still like it, but I only use it for very quiet situations now.
The sound for lead lines works fine for me,...
From Bar Chords to Bebop
Today, 02:33 PM in Improvisation