I started with a L50 in poor shape. I looked for quite some time to find a real beater that had all the original hardware and original bridge. I needed a guitar from the correct time period to have reasonably been fitted with a CC pickup when these pickups were available new.
I found this 1937 L50. The top is in 5 pieces. The back is in two but has 5 cracks that I counted.
The wood on the back was in such poor condition, from prior repairs, I would have been smarter to just replace it and make new braces. In fact this guitar was actually MISSING brace #2. No evidence of any glue, the back had never been removed and it could not have been removed through the f hole as it would have been too big.
Back reconstructed with new #2 brace. This L50, like the original ES-150/CC, has a hybrid construction. The top is carved, but the back on both is a flat piece of wood bent over slightly curved braces. The later Non-CC ES-150s have carved front and back pieces.
The CC pickup reproduction was special order and took 3 weeks to arrive. In the mean time, I cleaned up the rest of the guitar and made the bound ES-150 style pickguard. Attachment 27395
Since this will be a 'player' instrument, the neck angle had to be 'playable.' It was just marginal with the original bridge. I wanted to keep the original bridge. I improved the neck angle when I re-fitted the back. I got an extra degree or two. This was actually a big deal and a little stressful... not knowing if the guitar would be playable until the back was glued on.
That's freaking awesome, man! Great job and a real labour of love. You made something useful and desirable out of a forgotten guitar. And I approve of the groove in your video.
I just don't care, maybe because I used to own a music store and played, probably, hundreds of guitars in a month's time. Since I can rarely play instruments before I buy them, I'm, fortunately, able...
FYI the latest gen of the Blu no longer has a switchable send level in the loop. But I agree with you, most of the time I prefer my pedals in the loop rather than in front of the amp.
I sourced the woods for this one when John was going to build my guitar, after many calls all over the country I found 3 great sets of maple and 3 great sets of Adirondak spruce. I had a hard time...
You also need to take account for the nut width when looking at above specs. 1&11/16” vs 1& 5/8” nut width makes a huge difference on how much larger the same shape can feel.
Acoustic Image Clarus 2R Series III -- $700, plus shipping to continental US only.
I'm in the process of downsizing some gear, and I'm selling my beloved AI Clarus 2R Series III amp with the...
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Is a common major7 voicing both with 5th and #4. In the example voicing it's Cmaj7. You bar the first finger slightly at an angle to get the 3rd and 2nd fret for the bottom and...
I got a new Eastman AR910ce (!) which has an endpin jack but not a strap button. I wish to have a new one installed and am wondering (1) where to place it and (2) which one I should purchase. So I am...
I got lucky, not only did I get to borrow the Starfire but a really good player came over last night so I got to compare listening from audience perspective. Unfortunately the pickups are different...
As I've said before, I think the LJ needs to be tilted to get the best sound, taming the bass and slight boxiness I hear when it's flat on the floor. I tilt mine using a wedge, and in that position...
Yes, if you play an acoustic archtop, the port is a very good thing. It fills in those lower midrange frequencies that you otherwise wouldn’t hear so well.
Are people familiar with this? This helped me get more specific with my neck preferences. I found that I like the large c shape and the 66 oval c shape the best from this. The only thing I prefer is...
Yeah the #11 with a natural fifth is pretty common –– most chords marked 7#11 will sound pretty good with the fifth as long as it's an octave lower.
b5 with an 11th is weird.
But yeah ... on...
Acoustic Image Clarus 2R Series III
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