The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #26

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    John Pearse Acoustic-Electric Pure Nickel Wounds, 2700 (Wound G) or 960L. The only difference lies in the gauge of the E2 string.

    Thomastik Infeld Bebops as m_d recommended. Since you are in France they are much lower priced than they are in the US. Schneider Musik or Thomann carries them.
    Last edited by Jabberwocky; 12-23-2016 at 02:39 PM.

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #27

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    Thank you all again,

    You confirm what I more or less guessed about bronze strings vs. magnetic pickups.

    I note the refs of the string you recommend : I will have to dig it seriously...

    I also note that I'm not alone to suffer from bronze strings corrosion... Due to that unfortunate experience and the electric-acoustic shift on my two archtops, I'm then tempted to stay with nickel strings.

    Nonetheless, some days ago before that discussion, I bought a set of 12-53 Cleartone Acoustic Phosphor Bronze treated strings for a test, reputedly more "corrosion-proof" than the standard Martin strings. So I'll see...

    Another question - I have been told that flatwound strings would be unsuitable for an acoustic archtop, because they would lack too much power, harmonics and brilliance : is that right ?

    A+!

  4. #28

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    You might want to take a look at Elixir strings. They're Teflon coated, so don't corrode like regular strings. And I would not recommend flats on an acoustic.

  5. #29
    What about Thomastik-Infeld George Benson Jazz Strings? Flatwounds with a wound G. Best strings I've used on my archtop (Heritage H-575).

  6. #30

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    Hi All,

    Time has passed since : the guitar had a refret and nut jub done in between, and the set of Cleartone Phosphor Bronze 12-53 has been installed on it...

    Which strings for an acoustic archtop guitar?-872627p1030164-jpg

    Which strings for an acoustic archtop guitar?-916944p1030182-jpg

    Which strings for an acoustic archtop guitar?-970409p1030183-jpg

    Which strings for an acoustic archtop guitar?-854482p1030184-jpg

    ... And sometimes, it happens that I play it

    A+!

  7. #31

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    DAAAAmnnn! these guitars look good! (me being also left handed). How did you do the conversion?

    Regarding strings, ever tried the Thomastic infelds? They are easier on the fingers than most flatwound strings (swing series), and also have a nickel wound variation (bebop series)

  8. #32

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    Well, I seem to learn something everyday, I didn't know "Left Hand Guitar Strings" were so readily available... just kidding, those are very BEAUTIFUL guitars! Nice maple grain too!

  9. #33

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    Thanks !

    Yes, these are nice and good-sounding instruments, but I wonder if I will keep them, because I wonder if I'm an acoustic player... Even if floating disposable electrification "lefty monkey on a stick" by Kent Armstrong is planned on each one.

    For a true RH-to-LH conversion like here, you need to :

    - change the nut for a LH one
    - change the bridge for a LH one
    - change the pickguard for a LH one
    - fill and stain then coat all the RH holes

    You may need, like me, to custom-made the nut, the bridge and the pickguard.

    You may notice also that on my G400, the hardware is changed to nickel and chrome, instead of the gold original. Sorry, I hate gold, and this looks always dirty by the way.

    The tuners are RI Grover Sta-Tite 18:1 with low-backlash adjusted bushings, the Synchromatic tailpiece is the same as the one on my G100, since the dimensions are exactly identical to the original gold one of the G400. The bridge is lefty compensated and carved from ebony, the nut is carved from TUSQ material. The frets are now from the Jumbo variety (2.9mm x 1.2mm).

    Gretsch never issued any G100 RI or G400 RI in LH... If you see some, these are (more or less properly) converted ones !

    For the moment, the strings are Cleartone Phosphor Bronze 12-53... I noted all the refs that you gave to me along the posts and I will dig and see later - if I still own these instruments !

    A+!
    Last edited by hcstergzzaj; 03-15-2017 at 01:59 PM.

  10. #34

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    I have a Loar acoustic archtop. I play rhythm--gypsy style / Freddie Green style.

    If any of you guys play the same style's what type of strings suit you? for good tone & projection. As you know loads of strings to choose from out there. Would you go for bronze / phosphor bronze / round wound / nickel plated etc? How do you rate Elixer strings / Newtone strings? What's your choice?

  11. #35

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    the great archtop luthier john d'angelico's string of choice was the 80/20 bronze on hex core... still a great way to go on a non pickup archtop...very live acoustic tone

    fellow forumite rob mackillop uses philippe bosset 80/20 strings on his acoustic archtop to wonderful effect..worth a look


    cheers

  12. #36

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    Either phosphor bronze or 80/20 could sound good depending on the guitar. 80/20 tends to be brighter, so might work if the guitar is mellower. In my experience Loars tend to be pretty bright, so you might try phosphor bronze first. Personally, I use Thomastik Spectrums: great tone, even balance, long lasting, slightly less string tension than some other brands. You could also try Monels, but personally I wouldn't use nickel strings for a purely acoustic archtop.

  13. #37

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    just for further info...d'angelico developed the 80/20 on hex core with d'addario family way back in the 1930's...just in time to be used on countless classic recordings....phosphor bronze did not come about till 1974...they changed the formula, in an effort to make a longer lasting string

    everything u want to know abt bronze/brass strings

    Phosphor Bronze vs 80/20 Bronze: Acoustic Guitar String Types Explained

    cheers

  14. #38

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    I have Martin Retro monel strings on mine. All the bronze strings sound too bright and tinny for my taste, but take that for what it's worth.

  15. #39

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    I like the Martin Retro Monels as well.

  16. #40

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    monels are true vintage as well..best thing about monels is they work ok with a magnetic pickup too...a good compromise between acoustic bronze style and electric nickel style strings

    cheers

  17. #41

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    ^^^ That’s good news for me, I just bought a set of Martin retro monels to try on my carved top. Perhaps more so that with an amp, picks of different shapes and materials can make significant changes to acoustic tone.

  18. #42

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    Funny, it seems like every one says 80/20 is brighter than Phosphor Bronze, but that's never been my experience. PB always sounds shrill and thin to me. 80/20 sounds warmer while retaining a clear high-end. But I suppose that's how I hear it. YMMV.

    For a Loar playing mostly rhythm guitar, go with 80/20 or Monel. Personally I've really dug the Martin SP 80/20 for years, and I also use the Martin Retro Monel stings depending on the guitar. The monel seem to have more mids, and less bass or high end, which can be very woody and mellow. But for live playing, I usually prefer the enhanced projection of the 80/20.

  19. #43

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    For the Loar, I use the Martin Retros. There are some harmonics on the Loar that I don't like too much, and the retros tame them perfectly.

    But I think it varies from guitar to guitar.

    Jonathan's going to slap me for this, but I don't think any strings sound better on my Epi Broadway than Phosphor Bronze. 80/20s tended to sound a bit muddy on it, surprisingly. I can pretend I have a rational description about the tone of walnut and how it's complemented by these strings, but you should just take my word rather than my bs.

    My 1934 L7 sounds amazing with GHS Vintage Bronze 12s (13/17 on top).

    My 1936 L7 was just sold to a forum member, but I really liked Philippe Bossett 13s with 14/18 on top on that guitar.

  20. #44

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    I am out if left field. I hate bronze strings they ring too much out of proportion and go bad quick. For me any real stainless steel string, pure nickel, or even GHS compound wound will be the best. You have to figure that out depending on your specific guitars features. Bottom line for me is to avoid any bronze strings at all cost.

    I bet I am the only person who thinks this is the way to go for all acoustic. Bronze strings work on flattops depending but I do not like the response on carvedtop guitars.

  21. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark
    I am out if left field. I hate bronze strings they ring too much out of proportion and go bad quick. For me any real stainless steel string, pure nickel, or even GHS compound wound will be the best. You have to figure that out depending on your specific guitars features. Bottom line for me is to avoid any bronze strings at all cost.

    I bet I am the only person who thinks this is the way to go for all acoustic. Bronze strings work on flattops depending but I do not like the response on carvedtop guitars.
    i get ya...there are archtops that i prefer with pure nickel/round cores...the string that works best with the attributes of the guitar...no blanket statements

    but for loud acoustic tone fg style compin' as pre requisite...the obvious move would be toward bronze...

    volume and tone are two very different issues that many guitarists take for granted

    cheers

  22. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark
    I am out if left field. I hate bronze strings they ring too much out of proportion and go bad quick. For me any real stainless steel string, pure nickel, or even GHS compound wound will be the best. You have to figure that out depending on your specific guitars features. Bottom line for me is to avoid any bronze strings at all cost.

    I bet I am the only person who thinks this is the way to go for all acoustic. Bronze strings work on flattops depending but I do not like the response on carvedtop guitars.
    You’re not alone. I find bronze strings very grating.

    I actually like TI Swings on acoustic archtops quite a lot. I also find the actual volume level differs very little to my ear. I wonder if it’s actually a perception based on the tone of the strings. I should give it a test with a sound meter.

  23. #47

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    For acoustic playing on a carved top, I like run-of-the-mill D'Addario 12-52's nickel round wound but with the 16 swapped out for a 17 and the 12 swapped out for a 13 or 14. With a thick pick, plenty of volume on tap for practicing.

  24. #48

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    Philippe Bosset for me, but the fact is that you have to go through a period of trying different types, to find out what works best for your guitar, and your technique and taste. Good luck!

  25. #49

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    On vintage acoustic archtops I would only use 80/20, and not in a heavy gauge. 12-53 at most, and sometimes even 11-50. On a more modern or floater equipped guitar, nickel roundwounds may be a better option. But never flatwounds on a guitar used solely for acoustic purposes. That said, I have TI Swings in my ‘47 Super 400 because it’s equipped with a Rhythm Chief pickup, and I’ve been playing it amplified. If I go back to acoustic on that axe, 80/20s will be installed again.

  26. #50

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    Those of you who play acoustic archtop (no electrics).
    a) Do you find that coated strings inhibit tone & volume?
    b) Eddie Lang devotees: Eddie was supposed to have used the following gauges:
    15 / 20 / 30 / 38 / 48 / 73. Anybody tried that gauge?