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I have been offered a Heritage Super Eagle for what seems a good price.
The only Heritage I have played so far was a H-535 several years ago which was very good.
Any comments please...
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02-07-2012 02:57 AM
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As my signature states, I am a representative of The Heritage guitar company. I also own several Super Eagles. Most here will tell you that my comments and opinions on Heritage guitars are not biased by my affiliation with the company. If you have specific questions, I'll be happy to help you . . . but it might be more appropriate to PM me rather than discuss it openly. I don't want my comments to be perceived as an advertisement for Heritage. Just click onto my name and it'll open up my profile where you can send me a PM.
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Personally, I'd like to read what you have to say about Heritage guitars. You have taken great pains to ensure that everyone knows you have a vested interest in Heritage's financial success and I think most everyone will be able to factor that in when evaluating your opinions.
And the thing is, you're probably the most knowledgeable about Heritage guitars of any participant here...so even though you are a Heritage rep and are feeling a bit of "conflict of interest"...you also deprive the rest of us your insights with regard to the Heritage product line.
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If the price seems to good to be true, be careful. What the heck, be careful whenever you buy any used guitar regardless of price.
I was really excited that I had found a Heritage H575 with just one pickup for a really good price. It was exactly what I had been looking for.
Fortunately, as I was buying it but took it to the shops guitar tech to ask him to put heavier strings on it and do a set-up.
He told me, "I know that guitar, I can't put heavier strings on it, the truss rod is torqued as far as I'm willing to turn it."
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Hello cjm. It's good to see you posting again . . . welcome back.
Originally Posted by cjm
I appreciate your words. I do feel as though I have always been objective when referencing Heritage guitars. I just wanted to avoid the perception that I might be using this forum as a way to get some free advertising. I've got plenty of insight that I would be happy to share about "The Heritage" . . . as it relates to the company, its people and its products.
If the OP cares to post specific questions or concerns, I will answer them openly . . unless the admin or moderators object to it.
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It's obviously hard to say for certain without seeing the guitar, but the tech at that shop might have been a little less skilled than most. If a truss rod was torqued out to the max and the neck still had a bow, it could have been corrected relatively easily by using a weighted heat block with the truss rod backed off and relaxed. It's done all the time. Also, an extra washer under the nut so the tech could get additional threads to turn down on. An H575 should easily be able to handle .013s. But, again, hard to say without seeing it. Originally Posted by fep
Last edited by Patrick2; 02-07-2012 at 07:24 PM.
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If you can get a Super Eagle at a good price, go for it. I have a friend that has 4, I have an Eagle and love it.
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great guitar but it is LARGE...try it first
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Wood does compress at the adjustment end of the truss rod and the washers are a good fix. When you mention the weighted heat block is it used as a counter weight or is it used as a heated element? Originally Posted by Patrick2
Wooden blocks, 4' spirit levels and string tension is also good for putting a concave bow onto necks with 'stressed' truss rods, frets with a fat tang are great for introducing a convex bow for floppy necks
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jazzbow, most experienced techs have a heated and weighted neck straightening tool. (I don't know its formal name or if it even has one) It usually looks like a rectangular stainless steel box, about 3" wide and 3" deep and its length is the length of a finger board It has an electrical cord hanging out of it, used to plug it into an AC receptical. Some are even "home made" by the tech. It's the heating of the neck, more so than the weight . . . and it's usually left on over night and tied or taped firmly to the finger board. The frets do not need to be removed, in most cases . . although, I have seem some techs do so in very sever situations. Originally Posted by jazzbow
Wood does compress at the adjustment end of the truss rod and the washers are a good fix. When you mention the weighted heat block is it used as a counter weight or is it used as a heated element?
Wooden blocks, 4' spirit levels and string tension is also good for putting a concave bow onto necks with 'stressed' truss rods, frets with a fat tang are great for introducing a convex bow for floppy necksLast edited by Patrick2; 02-08-2012 at 10:57 AM. Reason: wording . . rectangular vs oblong
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The wood looks like macassar ebony. Guessing aftermarket. Pretty guitar.
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Black guitars are usually very "meh" for me. Not this one.
get it!!! I like living vicariously through you.
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After reading this thread I ordered 4 of these.
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The pick guard is definitely Macassar ebony . . but, I don't think the knobs are. I really like the way this guitar was spec'd out. Black tuning keys, a plain black ebony insert in the tail piece, a black JS pick guard . . the little white dot in the selector switch cap indicates HRW Schaller pups . . I love the little black strip running across the TR cover. I think a WBW multiple F hole binding would have really did it even more justice as well.
The close up of the top shows a reddish hue . . the close up of the back shows a blue-ish hue. Maybe the flash and the lighting? Also, is it the camera angle? Or, is that a very narrow nut width? Must be the camera, because the head stock also looks thinner than normal.
Not my taste for an archie . . but it damn sure is pretty!
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I always thought you can have a flashy TRC, OR headstock inlay, but not both. A flashy TRC distracts from the inlay. As always, purely aesthetic, and JMO. Originally Posted by Patrick2
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Yeah . . and good point. Upon closer examination of that head stock, I tend to agree with you. Just a bit too busy. But, if I had to choose one over the other, I'd have to go with the inlay. It's just too damned pretty. Originally Posted by Woody Sound
You've now got me thinking, and reassessing on of my own guitars. I had a custom built 18" arch top made to the spec's of a Super 400. I found a very nice version of a Super 400 TRC, with a slight abalone inlay on it that I just had to have for this particular guitar. It was kind of an acknowledgement of the guitar being patterned after the iconic Gibson Super 400. Not quite as distractive as the black line on the SE . . but, still ya got me thinking.
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Nit pickers....
It's a standard Super Eagle trc w/a stripe. To my eyes it looks no different than every SE or GE I've owned.
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OK. I'm confused. I thought that plain black ebony, like that found on a fretboard, is Gaboon Ebony. The pick guard looks like a nice piece of this type of ebony. Macassar ebony is the orange and black tiger stripe variety which makes gorgeous flat top backs and is what those knobs are made of.
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The ones on the SE have a gloss finish. Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
okay, those are top hat's, which is what I was after. But they lack the pizazz of those on the SE. Maybe they're one off's too!
Nothing a rattlecan of clear lacquer can't fix.
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I have liked black guitars since I saw my first LP Custom 50 years ago. The mid-60s run of black Gibsons...L5s, 335s, 175s, etc., really caught my eye. Then, again, I _like_ wine red! too.
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Vintage Wine Burst
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I can't tell you how many times I've been close to pulling the trigger on a Wineburst Super 400...there's currently one available for $6k...and I still can't push myself over the hump. I like their look. It's their resell value that concerns me. Originally Posted by Greentone
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I think Vintage Wine Burst .. VWB . . is one of Heritage's best shading colors ever! Here's my VWB Golden Eagle "Wes" Originally Posted by peterbright
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