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I want to replace the bridge on an archtop in order to adjust the action at will. I like it low....this is the one on the guitar right now..
Any suggestions I saw this gotoh Ebony archtop bridge with Gotoh GE104B Tune-o-matic goud and a graphtec ResoMax Archtop Bridge Standard and Low Profile or ?? I'd rather replace the original and keep it intact in case I want to re sell the guitar...
While I'm at it I would change the mini floater. I wondered , since this instrument is not a a valuable antique archtop , is is possible to router for a set in pup? or is this a waste of time and just change the floater for a similar one or Dearmond RC or...and pots....??
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02-11-2023 03:43 PM
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Either would work. Measure yours so you can select the proper height. I like the fret plane to just hit the top of the saddles at their lowest adjustment, that gives you resonable action and adjustment.
The ToM bridge will be 12 inch radius and is not adjustable. I can be compensated for either electric or acoustic strings (ie wound or unwound third). It will be moderately heavy, whatever your feelings about additional mass at the bridge are. The second bridge is preshaped for a wound third. It has a 16 inch radius which might match acoustic necks better (check yours). Confirm that the 2-1/8 spacing works for your guitar.
Put a piece of sandpaper on the top of the guitar and sand the feet so they make good contact with the top. Otherwise installation is straightforward.
As far a mounting the pup to the top, it is not usually done on acoustic instruments because it adds mass to the top and can dampen vibrations. If you have controls in your pickguard now you wound want to move them to the top of the guitar, ditto the jack if its not in the tail block. A big problem with trying to route a cavity in the top is that the neck will be in way. P90's usually screw to the top, humbuckers often have a ring. On many archtops the fretboard is fairly high off the top of the guitar - make sure you can get the pup close enough to the strings.
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Thx Freeman,
I guess the graphtec saddle is blank? i.e. not pre grooved? and that the feet actually bend to meet the body when strings are on? I will put a wound 3rd set...
On the existing bridge, is that saddle replaceable ? If I go too low...
On the pick up and pots:
Right now there is no pick guard , I would like to add an Benedetto "ebony" type one and change the concentric pot that's on the guitar now with CTS , the jack is in it's own cavity in the body already , so I would not replace that.... The pick up did not sound all that great hence the need to replace it, but I 've not really heard floaters I liked...and kinda did not mind the added mass to the guitar but yes I had thought of the neck being in the way for routing...
Thank you for your reply
SLast edited by SOLR; 02-11-2023 at 06:35 PM.
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Looking at their spec page or the photos, the graphtec saddle comes pre notched at 2.12 inch spacing. I don't think the feet bend, I think you sand them just like a wood bridge.
One thing to consider is that they offer the graphtec saddle with built in piezo transducers (the Ghost Loaded version). That would give you a piezo sound similar to under saddle pickups on acoustic guitars. Not necessarily something I would want but it is an option.
As far as neck mounted magnetic pickups, Seymour Duncan does have the S6 which mounts off the pick guard, that would save cutting holes in your guitar. I have use the standard mount version of this pickup and it happens to be my choice for jazz guitars. I would hesitate to drill or route any holes in your guitar - its pretty much irreversible.
And along with the bridges you have linked, I have used the generic rosewood or ebony bridge that StewMac sells - its 13 inch radius, not slotted so you can set you spacing, and is compensated for a wound G string. I set the neck to the bridge rather that the other way around which is what you would be doing and I simply sand the feet to match the curve of the top. I don't put pickups in my acoustic archtops so that is a moot point.
ps in that first picture the bridge is reversed from its normal orientation.
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I got the guitar back after a re fret....but I still don't like the bridge and the action is still too high, especially on the bass side. The luthier will work on it some more to get it lower but I'm wondering if I'm wasting his time (and my money) as this bridge will never be adjustable ...I guess he can sand down the bottom of the saddle? until ??? when is too far?
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Originally Posted by SOLR
The question then becomes whether there's enough excess saddle height to get you from where you are to where you want to be. For every 1/64" (or whatever unit of measure you're using) reduction in action you want, you have to lower the saddle by twice that amount. If your saddle has enough excess material to get to you there, than it's not a waste of time. If not, then move on to other solutions.
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Originally Posted by John A.
I do have other guitars with my preferred action, I always lower it from what the luthier's setup...Can't do this with this one unless I start sanding down the bottom of thew saddle myself hence the How low is too low comment, FWIW I can slip a thin pick under both E strings at the 12th on my preferred action .... I'll bring the guitar in today and see how low we get, if not I guess I'm back to the original idea of a swap with an adjustable bridge...
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Originally Posted by SOLR
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Originally Posted by John A.
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Originally Posted by SOLR
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Originally Posted by John A.
We settled on just shy of 3/64 on lowE and 1.5/64 on high E ...with TI jazz swing 013-052
I'll try that for a while and see if it changes.He offers incredible follow up, free adjustments for a month!!! and no waiting, I'm happy
He's never set one so low, but I play smooth jazz I told him...
While I was there I had him measure the existing bridge height and that was 3/4" so it kinda limits my options for a replacement from stewmac or other as they start at 15/16" well, the ones I found so far....
Thanks again
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I like the action on mine to be about .045" to .05", at most. I can get it to .040, measured by my Blue Chip 40 pick, but I can't play very vigorously without some string slap there. I like to keep it below .050", though. To get that, the neck must be straight, no relief, and the frets must be completely level, and the strings need to be relatively heavy. A 010 set won't work for me, because lighter strings tend to have more excursion. I generally use a .013 treble e, regardless of the rest of the gauges.
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What kind of guitar is this?
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Originally Posted by spencer096
Lollar Johnny Smith, Gotoh turners, concentric volume/tone pot ,semi hollow, all hand carved inside with wonderful woods.and craftsmanship....Sounds really nice and it's a pleasure to play .....Tummy cut, Weight is 5 lbs. Perfectly balanced, 25.5" scale 14 " lower bout...12" to 16" compound neck thin C ....44mm nut width (1.73228") ...Top and neck built from spanish cedar (it smells wonderful) but it's actually a kind of mahogany .....It has a nice acoustic voice, but I got it for it's electric tone .....replaces my 16" x 3" thick jazz box .Just about everything I wanted from a small archtop.....
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Originally Posted by Freeman Keller
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naming chords?
Today, 01:48 PM in Theory