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and here :
Last edited by arno_byr; 12-06-2022 at 06:10 AM.
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12-06-2022 05:01 AM
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and here :
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Originally Posted by arno_byr
Extrangers planes in the third video! I think the plane in the first one is more common and easy to found.
Thank you!
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Both have nice tone, but my preference goes to the parallel braces on the second video.Last edited by arno_byr; 12-06-2022 at 04:22 PM.
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Originally Posted by arno_byr
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Originally Posted by arno_byr
I know there are a few variables that influence the sound of a guitar, but I have to at least try to get closer to that parallel brace sound.
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Great craftsmanship, by the way
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Of course, beautiful instruments.
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As I go into the project I found new questions and doubts.
Somebody could help me with the correct headstock thickness at the end and at the joint with the neck? Benedetto’s book aim for 13/32” and 17/32” without veneers. My question is the total measure, veneers included.
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14 - 15 mm, it's the thickness of the headstock including the veneer.
I had the same problem with a wrong l5-ces plan to make my archtop where it was written 19 mm.
The groover mechanism were not fitting, it was too thick.
16-17mm at the jonction of the neck
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Originally Posted by Travelrock
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Originally Posted by arno_byr
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Originally Posted by Freeman Keller
In any case, your advice to measure the tuners is completely clarifying. Thanks a lot!
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Originally Posted by Travelrock
I'll add that Benedetto is the first builder I've seen who tapers his headstocks, I'm not sure why.
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Originally Posted by Freeman Keller
Benedetto perhaps tape the headstock for strengthen the trussrod channel end zone (a weak point).
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Originally Posted by Travelrock
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Originally Posted by Freeman Keller
It seems to be accepted that a well-glued joint provides more resistance to breakage in certain cases, for example in the necks of classical and steel strings guitars.
So why are archtop guitar necks made in one piece? (I refer to the heel and the headstock-neck joint)
In my country we have good suppliers of tonewoods, but maple is scarce, and finding wood for a one-piece maple neck is very complicated.
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Hello,
Now my soundboard is ready to bracing and binding but I can’t decide if binding or keep without binding.
I like the look without binding but would be a good reason for practising this task.
Other options are:
Two layers, one stained black sicomore (thinner) and natural maple (a bit thicker)
Four layers (all the same thickness) black/sicomore:
My intention is to give the guitar a design combined between the rich decoration of a New Yorker style and the beauty based on the little decoration of more contemporary designs. But the binging of the f holes has me paralyzed.
I would love to hear some opinions on this aspect.
Thank you very much for reading me.
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If you want the binding practice I say go for it. I made separate little jigs for bending the bindings and holding them to a set for both the round holes at the end of each f hole. Is that how you intend to do it also? The 4 layer looks really elegant. Nice job on the top btw...
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Originally Posted by Travelrock
Originally Posted by Travelrock
For me, archtop bling-iness is about, "Because I can."
a) A lot of homebrew archtops have inlays or bindings which are 'almost correct.' Sadly they show that not only was the builder unable to pull it of (yet), they couldn't correct the fault.
b) The flip-side of the coin is purposeful plainness. When Bob Bendetto or Ken Parker or John Monteleone builds a guitar with a blank fingerboard it is clear that they can do lots more but don't need to anymore. However, when Sam Sherry builds a guitar (30 years ago) with a blank fingerboard, everybody knows it's because he can't (and never did).
I bet this is no help whatsoever . . .
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I like to bind guitars, including f-holes, "because I can". I choose one theme and try to carry it all the way thru the guitar - body, neck, head, f-holes, pick guard - all gets the same binding done in the same way.
Here is the acoustic archtop that I just finished, it is bound in ivoroid with BWB lines
Here is a hollow body with maple binding, including the f-holes
White with some accents lines on another acoustic
One thing to remember about binding f-holes is that if you are relying on them for access to the inside of the guitar (for fishing electronics) to make sure everything will fit thru them. On an acoustic it doesn't matter.
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Originally Posted by mbar65
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Originally Posted by Sam Sherry
Thanks for your reply.
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Plastic binding is fairly easy to bend to fit f-holes, wood is difficult. I use a hair dryer to warm plastic and a hot pipe for wood. I use a lot of little wedges to hold the binding in place and all of my binding is fitted dry and then I wick water thin CA in to the seam. The binding stands slightly proud of the top on both the inside and out, I can shave that back after its glued.
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Originally Posted by Freeman Keller
I will take your advice into account. I plan to bind the plates, fingerboard and headstock.
Acquired of The Angels
Today, 05:26 PM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos