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Forgot to mention, I also domino'd the cauls last time:
Today I cut the sides to width and close to final thickness:
They're approximately the length, but cut a bit long to ensure I ain't short:
Cut a rough corner block for the Florentine cutaway:
Also decided to file and epoxy a wedge to better align the neck block with the centerline:
Whenever next time is, I'll plan to drum sand the sides to thickness, finalize the neck and tail block widths, and maybe start some side bending!
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02-06-2022 01:15 AM
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Went into shop on Sat for an hour or two. First, I finalized refining the caul sliver by filing it to my liking necessary to align the neck block:
Here's the neck block aligned with centerline at tail block:
Here's the overall improvement:
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Finished thicknessing the 3 side pieces to 3/32":
Then rounded off the edges of the blocks on the router table...
Neck block:
Tail block:
All the basic shell pieces (also seen is the Florentine cutaway cornerblock):
Sneak peek views of the kerfing with the side:
Next stop bending town..
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Nice work! Well done!
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Originally Posted by citizenk74
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Friday I got to the shop and was started with bending the sides. I started with the short cutaway side:
Close-up from the side:
Then I bent the long non-cutaway side:
Here's a bird's eye (PUN INTENDED) view of the corner block area:
Then came back the following day to do the long cutaway side:
Here's all sides in the mold:
I'm unsure how great the Florentine cutaway sides will join at the corner block, and I will likely trim the corner block to move further in to help remedy that. Anyhow, here's how it looks now (will have to do some fit sanding before the final glue up of course):
Fortunately, the binding should hide a lot of the imperfection from the joint of the cutaway.
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Being that I changed the final side width to 2 1/8", I had to modify the height of the neck and tail blocks to 1/8" greater. Here they are finalized-
Neck block:
Tailblock:
Here's the glue-up of the bird's eye maple back plate:
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Doing very very good!! Just one thing: the cutaway piece would be better off with another concave block for inward pressure. I read about chair making that the crucial moment for success was when it was bend with inward pressure, compressing, otherwise the wood would crack.
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Originally Posted by sbeishline
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Originally Posted by Eck
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Originally Posted by RJVB
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Attempted to refine the fit of the corner block - It’s painful to try to get perfect. Hopefully binding can help hide some of the ugliness.
Back plate side:
Top plate side:
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Originally Posted by sbeishline
Hats off for your work!
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Originally Posted by sbeishline
(I’m going to get as much as I can laser cut and cnc milled… I’m naturally bad at joinery)
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Originally Posted by Eck
Originally Posted by Eck
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I’ve had a few shop trips since my last updates.
After trying to free-hand fit the corner block on the belt sander, the block kept getting smaller with a poor fit until ended up cutting my loss (pun intended) and cut a new corner block. This one I used old school carbon paper to fit this using a file. Fit was much more acceptable:
Then I held the sides in place and marked the non-cut side at the tail end butt joint with square, and cut it first (Japanese hand saw). Then cut the long cutaway side a tad long and fit it on the shooting board. Not sure why I took this pic?
I fit the tail block with sandpaper against the side and glued it:
Next day, I glued the corner block and let it go 24hr.
Here it is clamped:
Then removed the clamps and glued the neck block.
Clamp setup:
Fromt view of fit:
Back view of fit:
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Here’s the current state:
Certainly isn’t as pretty as the first. The tail block is off line ( I think evident that my mold isn’t totally symmetrical), but I don’t think that really matters.
Back view over maple back plate blank:
Good Florentine joint, but looks fairly ugly as expected. Hopefully binding will help hide some of that??
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In 2 early morning shop sessions, I got the neck blank made up using my template from first guitar.
Traced it onto milled Spanish cedar that’s just under an inch think (0.91”):
Cut them out on the band saw and then did the double-stick tape method on the router table for the 3 pieces:
Set up plan for the glue up:
Glued and clamped:
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Nice work!
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Originally Posted by citizenk74
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After a few early morning sessions in my kitchen, I have the side braces and just about all the kerfing glued in the side shell. I used Old Brown Glue for this process.
Once that side dries, I will finish with gluing the (top-plate side) short cutaway piece and 2-kerf pieces on the braces.
Otherwise, it’ll be ready to flush sand.
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Great job and I watching every picture. Learning, learning!
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Got the neck set-back angle cut on the table saw to 4° and truss rod cavity cut in the router table:
Next up at some point, I need to mark and check the landmarks for nut,1st fret, 15th fret (body joint), and tenon cut mark (3/4” tenon).
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Got all the remaining kerfing pieces glued up:
Ribs are now fully braced:
Next up, chisel sharpening sessions. Then, I’ll even out the pieces glued on top of the braces -and shave off the excess before flush sanding.
Then I’ll be set to trace the shape to bandsaw on the top and back plates.
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Chisels are sharp and spinning their wheels to get moving on the shell bracing, but I’ve got a hiatus on that until next week.
Scouted out the shell with the top plate:
Keeping the top plate centerline center at the neck block:
I found an off-center little Birdseye marking that I’ll use as my target for the centerline at the tailblock end of things:
Certainly isn’t the most ideal aesthetically, but I think it shouldn’t affect the function in a negative way.
Wright SoloEtte Travel Guitar
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