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I’m not building, per se, because I’m not starting from scratch. But I am taking my acoustic Godin 5th Avenue and adding a floating pickup. I’m perfectly comfortable doing all the electronics work EXCEPT installing the endpin jack, because of the limited access through the F-holes. I’m worried about tightening the nut to hold it in place from inside the guitar. So I’m leaning towards using this jack:
WD Music Products® Screw Mount Stereo Endpin Jack
My question is: is there a better product or a better way to do this that I’m missing?
secondary question: how would you recommend grounding the trapeze tailpiece on an existing instrument to minimize hum?
Figured I’d ask the experts.
ZacLast edited by zcostilla; 02-15-2019 at 04:15 AM.
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02-14-2019 12:09 PM
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This the one I use self taps in but I aready have a reamer. I would use this and you can simply run ground to the tailpiece hinge when you put it back on. Just strip ground so wire is exposed enough attach.
Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack | stewmac.com
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Here is another option I use and actually like this better.
WDENDPIN Chrome Endpin Stereo/Mono Jack Active Preamp | Reverb
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My $.02:
Meh:
WD Music Products® Screw Mount Stereo Endpin Jack
WDENDPIN Chrome Endpin Stereo/Mono Jack Active Preamp | Reverb
Love it:
Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack | stewmac.com
Why?
-It works with a lot of tailpieces so that one does not need to modify the strap pin hole in the tailpiece.
-It can lock onto the endblock of the guitar.
-It is remarkably secure once installed.
-Really easy to install, with no extra holes required, no tapping of threads required.
-Excellent build quality.
-Looks way nicer than the others, IMO.
Just did this one:Last edited by Hammertone; 02-22-2019 at 06:07 AM.
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My only advice is to get a reamer. Don't even think about doing it with a drill bit. You don't need StewMac's, they're very proud of theirs, way too expensive. But you can buy one at most tool stores, probably even Harbor Freight, and it should work fine. I've forgotten where I got mine, it's >25 years old. I've only used it a few times, but it was worth the price. It's also handy for enlarging holes for pots, and anywhere else you need to enlarge a hole in wood.
For grounding, the jack provides adequate grounding for the strings with a metal tailpiece. The ground wire to the jack should be connected to common ground in the guitar. But check that to make sure.
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My reamer from Menards was about $9.00 same tool.
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So I had a regular jack (not an endpin) and decided to go this route because I didn’t want to drill through the end block. But I didn’t do a dry run before drilling and my jack is too big to squeeze through the f-hole. Any suggestions?
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Go big or go home:
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
AP-0633 Metal Jackplate for Les Paul(R)
EP-0151 Switchcraft(R) 151 Mono Long Threaded Jack
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You must have some very small f holes. I've never had a problem getting a jack through one, although it can require trying different orientations to wiggle it through. Jacks do come in different sizes, though. I've never used that type of jack other than in an endblock, but it should work. And a number of manufacturers use that sort of plate in the rim, including Benedetto.
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Since you are going electric, why not just go all JJ Cale on it?
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
I actually went with a floating pickup and pickguard mounted controls to avoid cutting into the soundboard. I bought the Gibson jack plate at the local Guitar Center (at twice the price of Amazon, but I wanted it today). 8 had a similar jack to what I posted in my spare parts bin, but it isn’t threaded all the way, so I went to Lowe’s and got a nylon bushing to take up the gap and make it tight. Now I just have to drill the hole into the jack plate a little bigger and hope the chrome doesn’t flake. Going to cover it with Frog tape first to protect it.
[EDITED TO ADD] found this when looking up what in the world he had going on. J.J. Cale’s Fifty Dollar Guitar | American Standard Time
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Hey, it's a big tent. and, what with the universe expanding 'n'all, it keeps getting bigger.
The Harmony brand has been reintroduced.
Maybe they'll offer a JJ Cale model.
Followed by Chinese knockoffs.
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Originally Posted by Hammertone
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
My Varsity amp breaks up too soon and doesn’t have the headroom I’d like but the Carvin MB-12 bass amp sounds great. I just wish it had some reverb.
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HALL OF FAME MINI REVERB | Stompboxes | Guitar | TC Electronic | Categories | MUSIC Group - TC Electronic
Lots of them available on Reverb, or at Guitar Center.
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Originally Posted by zcostilla
whats the pickup and guitar ?
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Originally Posted by pingu
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Originally Posted by sgosnell
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I like the GC default, something like "chasing the tone", but there are many hundreds of them available.
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I'm in the process of adding a floater to my acoustic Kingpin myself. I will purchase a reamer for the end-pin, but how do I hold onto the inside nut to tighten the outside? Do I just set the nut distance, pull the jack through and rely on friction to keep the inside nut (or cover, depending on which jack I go with) in place?
Thanks for any advice.
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Use a star washer inside the inside nut, that will provide enough bite to keep everything in place.
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I didn’t want to pay for a special tool that I’d only use once or twice in my life. I cut a wire hanger, and bent the end into a small “T”. Then I feed the long end through and pulled it through the hole. Keeping tension on the wire hanger will hold the jack in place while you tighten the nut at the end of the jack.
(edited because autocorrect worked on autoconfuse mode and gave me typos)Last edited by zcostilla; 08-15-2020 at 05:12 AM.
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2 great suggestions, thanks. I like the star washer idea as it will also do some compression to keep things locked up, but I was also planning on using a coat hanger to pull the assembly through, so I can go either way. Thanks, folks!
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Perhaps I'm not comprehending everything being discussed. There is no hole through an endpin jack, and no room through a proper hole through the endblock to have anything except the jack go through it. You can only apply pressure from the inside, which is problematic because you will probably bend and perhaps break the clips where the cable is soldered. You can use a plug without the sleeve to pull the jack through, but it won't stand much pressure without pulling out. I am happy to be enlightened.
RIP Nick Gravenites
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