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Guitar is no longer for sale. I tried to modify the title of the thread to indicate that but can’t change it.
Original owner Eastman AR680CE John Pisano Signature model in excellent condition. Made in 2016. Fully carved model with spruce top and mahogany back and sides. All in excellent condition structurally, electrically, and finish-wise. I can't find any dents, nicks, or scratches on the guitar other than some very slight polishing swirl marks due to the nature of the nitrocellulose finish. Well cared for in non-smoking home. Humidified in the case and never gigged. It has a lovely full, warm tone, no doubt in part due to the mahogany back and sides. Currently strung with TI Swings.
Comes with the original hard shell case also in excellent condition except for one clasp that is somewhat difficult to close unless both the case and lid are exactly aligned.
$1500 plus shipping and PayPal fee. And, you can check my Reverb feedback at: https://reverb.com/shop/bills-guitar-shop.
(Sorry about the sideways photos. If anyone knows how to fix them please let me know. They were upright until they were uploaded.)
Last edited by Bill Eisele; 12-07-2020 at 11:56 AM.
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11-03-2020 01:25 PM
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good deal on what i consider the best eastman
luck
cheers
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What year is your Eastman?
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2016. Updated the post to make that more clear.
Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
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Excellent value! Great guitar. GLWTS!
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Bump
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Do you know the thickness of the neck (wood only) at the first fret? If not, would you say this has a thicker or thinner neck (not width, but front to back thickness). The Eastmans I've owned and played were all fairly wide necked, but thinnish in depth, which doesn't work well for my left hand.
Thanks!
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I just measured the thickness of the neck at the first fret, wood only, and bottoming out the strings and I got 15/16”. So, close to one inch. Is that about the same as the other Eastmans that you have played? I have to say that I have a Heritage archtop with a much thicker neck and seem to prefer that thickness over the thinner ones. Not sure why, though. Originally Posted by Rhythmisking
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FYI: At a potential buyer's request I checked the level of the frets and found that the 16th and 19th frets are ever so slightly higher than the surrounding frets. This is not affecting playability in that area in terms of fret buzz or anything else. However, I will either have those two frets leveled by my tech if COVID restrictions permit me to visit him or will reduce the price of the guitar to cover the cost for you to have it done.
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Thanks Bill, I appreciate it! Originally Posted by Bill Eisele
Typically when neck thickness are given, there's a specific way to get that measurement, which involves loosening the strings and moving them out of the way and then measuring the thickness of the wood at the first fret with calipers, which is then given as a decimal. I'm guessing you pushed down the strings and then eyeballed it, but this won't give you the real number, there's too many variables. The correct way to do it is like in the picture below. Note the calipers are behind the fret measuring the thickness of only the wood. This is the only accurate way to measure the actual neck thickness as different fret sizes differ considerably in thickness, as do different gauge strings.
Many people don't really care. Some are more particular, and some, like myself, have physical issues which make necks outside a certain range difficult or painful to play for extended periods.
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Thanks for the guide on how to do it more accurately. Will give it a go again tomorrow with the strings loosened and pushed aside as you indicate. And will use decimals instead of fractions. I have physical issues myself and I find that a thicker neck helps me. I guess it has something to do with leverage. Stay tuned! Originally Posted by Rhythmisking
Thanks Bill, I appreciate it!
Typically when neck thickness are given, there's a specific way to get that measurement, which involves loosening the strings and moving them out of the way and then measuring the thickness of the wood at the first fret with calipers, which is then given as a decimal. I'm guessing you pushed down the strings and then eyeballed it, but this won't give you the real number, there's too many variables. The correct way to do it is like in the picture below. Note the calipers are behind the fret measuring the thickness of only the wood. This is the only accurate way to measure the actual neck thickness as different fret sizes differ considerably in thickness, as do different gauge strings.
Many people don't really care. Some are more particular, and some, like myself, have physical issues which make necks outside a certain range difficult or painful to play for extended periods.
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Okay! I measured the neck thickness again at the first fret using the method described by Rhythmisking and found that it is 0.866" compared to the earlier number I got with the strings still over the fretboard but pushed down. Hope this helps!
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Hi All,
After having played the guitar for quite a while this week I have decided to keep it. Thanks for your interest in the guitar! And help with the neck measurement process!
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Wow. Bullet truss rod, brass nut, Schallers... I, too, was there in the '70s. Originally Posted by Rhythmisking
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Good move Bill. These aren’t available that often. I’ve owned both the mahogany and spruce models, and actually preferred the mahogany because they’re warmer. These guitars play like absolute butter! Originally Posted by Bill Eisele
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Thanks, 2bornot2bop! I am trying to thin the herd and I thought I would move the Eastmans first. But the AR680CE is a great guitar. Perfect proportions and very warm with the mahogany. Butter is the right word! Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
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