The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Hello everybody,

    I have been playing for many years and now I would like to give myself a jazz archtop but trying that of a friend I noticed that during the alternate picking with the sixteenth notes and going from one string to another, I cannot be as fluid as on my strat, and this it happens both sitting and standing, as if something hinders the movement of the wrist and the guitar is hard to play.

    Could it be the thickness of the body that forces the forearm to a different position, and to me more uncomfortable than a stratocaster ? My fear is that I may find it difficult to switch from one guitar to another.

    Any suggestions ?

    Many thanks

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  3. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzlove
    Hello everybody,

    I have been playing for many years and now I would like to give myself a jazz archtop but trying that of a friend I noticed that during the alternate picking with the sixteenth notes and going from one string to another, I cannot be as fluid as on my strat, and this it happens both sitting and standing, as if something hinders the movement of the wrist and the guitar is hard to play.

    Could it be the thickness of the body that forces the forearm to a different position, and to me more uncomfortable than a stratocaster ? My fear is that I may find it difficult to switch from one guitar to another.

    Any suggestions ?

    Many thanks
    you just have to get used to the different feel, and that just takes some time and practice. Archtops can be very fast and fluid machines, but the setup has to be right. If it’s set with high action to get max volume acoustically- which may be appropriate for some big band settings, it could be completely wrong for someone playing with a light touch.

  4. #3

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    It is not an easy task to set up an arch-top guitar so that it is comfortable to play.
    it largely depends on the quality of the instrument, the strings, the pick, etc.

  5. #4

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    Did it have a pickguard? I prefer the looks without, but I need it for proper picking angle.

  6. #5

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    The strings are effectively on a different plane and that is something your picking hand/arm has to make adjustments for. So you've got the thicker body added into the ergonomics, the top of the guitar several inches farther away from your body in addition to the plane of strings even higher due the the higher bridge and elevated neck of an archtop. So it's no surprise that you feel a big difference compared to your solid body.

  7. #6
    In the 70s I kept the guitar quite low and the right hand was extended downwards with the base of the thumb resting on the body and consequently the pick a bit tilted forward and when I started studying jazz, I started to raise the instrument and also the hand, consequently I kept the plectrum almost parallel to the strings, obtaining a nice round sound but losing speed. Now even with the electric I play more seated and when I'm standing, changes the world to me.

  8. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by kris
    It is not an easy task to set up an arch-top guitar so that it is comfortable to play.
    it largely depends on the quality of the instrument, the strings, the pick, etc.
    ive found totally the opposite. I would say my 335 is less easily adjustable. On my archtops with a trad wooden bridge you can dial in an action very easily. I even do this on the gig sometimes.

    So long as your neck is set right for your strings, you can come up and down as needed.

    On the 335 I have to slacken the strings off.

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by vintagelove
    Did it have a pickguard? I prefer the looks without, but I need it for proper picking angle.
    Surely that angle can help improve or worsen the guitarist's comfort since the pickguard actually raises the hand rest point.

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Miller
    ive found totally the opposite. I would say my 335 is less easily adjustable. On my archtops with a trad wooden bridge you can dial in an action very easily. I even do this on the gig sometimes.

    So long as your neck is set right for your strings, you can come up and down as needed.

    On the 335 I have to slacken the strings off.
    335 is much easier to set up - this is my experience ...
    besides, the arch-to hollow body - it's not just about the electric sound.

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by kris
    335 is much easier to set up - this is my experience ...
    besides, the arch-to hollow body - it's not just about the electric sound.
    it’s a lot easier to set the intonation, that’s for sure. but the thing about a 335 or any electric guitar for that matter is that the idea is you dial in the action and that’s it until you change the strings.

    In fact for an old school acoustic archtop the action was almost the volume control. Crank it for big band rhythm, take it down for chord melody. But even on 175 I also find it straightforward to adjust how it plays.

  12. #11

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    I don't think archtops per se are more difficult to adjust than semis, or versa. It depends on the specific features of the guitar. For instance, my archtop and semis both have tune-o-matic style saddles, so intonation adjustments are identical. A truss rod is a truss rod, so that's a tie, too. But they have different post/adjustment designs:

    Alternate Picking - Difficulty on archtop-image_67204353-jpgAlternate Picking - Difficulty on archtop-image_67177985-jpg

    The archtop adjustment wheel (black) is easier to turn under string tension; the semi is harder because the adjustment wheel is smaller and harder to get to. Adjusting the archtops's action on the fly is easy. Adjusting the semi's impractical. My strat has more adjustment points (height and intonation of individual saddles, bridge radius, whammy float and tension, neck tilt), that all interact with each other, so you have more control over set-up, but that also means more ways to mess it up, and all of them require tools. I don't think there's any difference in terms ease of alternate picking with any of them, but I'm so used to these guitars that if I ever did perceive a difference I've forgotten about it.

  13. #12

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    This is not what I meant when I wrote about the guitars set up.
    Most often, bridge height and other settings are done before playing.And that's probably not a problem.
    The arch-top hollow guitar has a specific sound (acoustic and electric) and with the right setup you can get it or not.
    For example I don't like low action on my hollow guitar.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Miller
    it’s a lot easier to set the intonation, that’s for sure. but the thing about a 335 or any electric guitar for that matter is that the idea is you dial in the action and that’s it until you change the strings.

    In fact for an old school acoustic archtop the action was almost the volume control. Crank it for big band rhythm, take it down for chord melody. But even on 175 I also find it straightforward to adjust how it plays.
    .but there are also other guitars not only 175 ...
    I mean jazz guitars with pickups, but mostly with acoustic sound.Setting the right height of the bridge has an effect on the tones, and this often requires more experimentation.