The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    This has been long overdue, but she's now officially mine, after a long hesitation given the asking price and the not so great shape, the surprisingly thick top (that is apparently standard for this model), and a loose brace that required repair. Estheticly, it clearly was a player (in an old style rock band!) - see missing paint and finish around the cutaway and on the neck, lots of dings and cracks in the finish... But plays like nothing else. I was surprised about how much darker and deeper the sound is compared to every archtop that I ever had the pleasure to hold (I will try to post a comparison with ES 175, Gibson L-4, Gibson L-5 Wes Mongomery one day). Some photos:

    Gibson Super 400 (1980)-1-20230521_193424-jpgGibson Super 400 (1980)-3-20230521_193534-jpgGibson Super 400 (1980)-2-20230521_193452-jpg

    And some awkward playing and sound samples, as I am getting used to the guitar (through friend's Fender Blues Junior and Shure SM57, sorry, first time recording and first time using a tube amp, not sure how to dial good jazz sound):
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/2ivaw427hMWP26PW9

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    Congratulations a fine guitar looks very good my my eyes. A little playing wear means it is a good guitar. It is 43 years old and at 43 I had some wear and tear too.

    I favor acoustic archtops with floaters. However, none deliver the sound of my 2005ces. The depth and breath of sound. From Kenny Burrell to Scotty Moore. Need we say anymore.

    Play it and enjoy every bit of it. As SS says when you show up at a gig with a Super 400 they expect you can play serious guitar.

  4. #3

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    You can ascend no further! Congratulations!

  5. #4

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    Top of the archtop food chain. A big Congrats !

  6. #5

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    May she inspire your playing for many years to come!

  7. #6

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    Well done Tomas

    The price was likely too good to pass on.

    Happy days.

  8. #7

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    Beautiful!

  9. #8

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    Gorgeous burst.

  10. #9

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    Just pooped in to say congratulations. There is nothing like getting one of these or an L5 or similarly legendary and awesome guitars. Enjoy that thing!

  11. #10

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    From the pics, the guitar looks to be in great shape!
    You will be pleased with the tone from a guitar with a thick top. Take it from uncle Vinny. The sustain lasts. They are easier to play as a result. It becomes very predictable. Whereas, a thin top has good mid range but it fades quickly.
    It’s a beautiful guitar. Enjoy it, and like Stringswinger says, may it inspire your playing.
    I always get better when I get a new guitar because I play it ALOT!
    That’s why I suck now, because I haven’t bought a new guitar in a while!
    Enjoy!
    Joe D

  12. #11

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    Tone sounded great in the clip to me!! Congrats

  13. #12

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    Thank you for all the kind works, the guitar is a killer. I want to point out another potential problem - the bridge saddle has to be completely bottomed out to get the strings action I like (rather low). I know there is an option to sand the bottom slightly if I ever want to go lower, but from what I read, this might mean a problem with the neck angle, although I don't have necessary tools to measure it. What is your experience ? Does this get worse with time ? Should I put lower tension strings on it to prevent further bending of the neck (currently 13th) ?

    Gibson Super 400 (1980)-20230525_194214-jpg

  14. #13

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    Neck resets are part of a long term maintenance program for a vintage guitar. You can delay the inevitable by sanding down the bridge saddle, bridge base or both and when that no longer works some guys sand down the fretboard. I would suggest using the strings you like. It could be quite some time before you need to sand the saddle (don't ever sand the bridge base or fretboard!) and what good is a guitar that doesn't get you the tone and feel that you like? That saddle is probably not original and a new saddle is way cheaper than a neck reset. If you ever feel the need for new frets, that is the time to consider a neck reset. Make sure that whoever does the neck reset (if you ever get to that point) is a master craftsman. Most luthiers working in music stores lack the skills to do it right. It is a way more tricky procedure than doing a refret.

  15. #14

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    looks to me like you’ve got plenty of room to lower the action if you need to , by sanding down the bottom of the saddle ….

    (also it looks like someone has added
    a couple of metal washers under the
    saddle onto the posts , which could be removed)

  16. #15

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    Another quick fix is to use thinner thumb wheels.

  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by pingu
    looks to me like you’ve got plenty of room to lower the action if you need to , by sanding down the bottom of the saddle ….

    (also it looks like someone has added
    a couple of metal washers under the
    saddle onto the posts , which could be removed)
    those likely aren't additional washers but saddle inserts which have a base that appears to be washers, it's actually one unit.
    the bridge is original to that guitar but someone has already notched the bottom of the saddle to lower the action.
    SS, not sure what you mean by someone possibly sanding down the fretboard? that would make the action higher.
    ways to lower the action are sanding the bottom of the base, sanding the bottom of the saddle as have been mentioned, lowering the nut height if too tall or refretting if the frets are low. you could also remove the saddle inserts.
    don't worry too much about the neck angle, it is what it is and a neck reset should be a last resort, if it's comfortable to play leave it alone.
    I have a few archtops where the action is all the way down or close but the neck angle/action hasn't changed in the time I've owned them so as long as they're comfortably playable I don't touch them.