Strings for Epiphone ES-175 reissue

[Bluesman1960]

Hello All,
I'm a new member and just want to know what any EPI ES-175 users preferences in regards to strings: "Brands-Gauges". Give me some input on your sound. I just bought a Epi 175 my 1st full hollow body. Let me hear your thoughts please.Thanks.
Regards,
Michael

[billkath]

I'm using D'Addario Chromes 12's on my 175. Gives me the sounds that I want-nice and jazzy on the neck, but clear, and a bit of attack on the bridge if I'm doing rockabilly or pretending to be Scotty. They feel nice and smooth on my fingers, and seem to last forever. Wound G-string. I have the dreaded string-rot skin (Allergy to nickel, I can't even wear 9ct Gold!), and on my solid-body guitars I use Fender Stainless bullets-10's. Even with SS, If I don't change them every 3rd 2-hour gig I blister terribly on the pads between my fingers and strings snap. Normal Nickels are gone after one gig with me. The Chromes-they don't give me any problems at all, and I can play for hours with them. Just something to be aware of, as I know nickel allergy is a growing problem with men, and especially men who play guitar. Once the new string twang goes they're very nice.

[BigDaddyLoveHandles]

Wow, I've never heard of nickel allergy, that sounds like the proverbial bummer. Have you ever tried La Bella's Black Nylon Tape wound strings?

Black Nylon Tape Wound

I like them for their dark tone, and long life.

[randyc]

It's a very serious problem, BDLH!

Most people that have that allergy can't tolerate anything less than 24 kt gold touching their skin (although silver may be tolerable provided no nickel content). My wife is so intolerant that she has to put duct tape over the inside surface of jeans, where the button is riveted. I didn't realize that it was also common to men.

FWIW, I like those strings that Bill mentioned (D'Addario 12's) and I formerly also used the Fender Bullets on my solid body guitars. Both can be obtained on the internet for very good prices if ordered a dozen sets at a time (in the U.S. - probably different in Europe).

[Bluesman1960]

Billkath,
That is a BUMMER about the allergy. I will look into the chrome strings. Thanks for the input both of you.
Michael

[billkath]

Yep-very serious. I'm the same as Randy's good lady-even the rivets on my trousers cause horrendous blisters. I can't wear cheap silver, and the only watch I can wear is one made of Titanium. I've rotted more bridges on more guitars and basses than I can remember. Look what I did to my beloved Charvel bridge-it's melted!! I stripped it right down to bare metal to refinish it, but the damage was so bad I had to replace it with a new bridge.

[SamBooka]

They are pricey but +1 on the Labella nylon tapewound strings BUT I dont know what the plain strings are made of.

[BigDaddyLoveHandles]

They are pricey but +1 on the Labella nylon tapewound strings BUT I dont know what the plain strings are made of.

I've never heard of plains strings being made of anything except steel, although some are tin plated.

[henry b]

I've never heard of plains strings being made of anything except steel, although some are tin plated.

Elixirs have an anti rust coating on the plain strings .

[randyc]

I've never heard of plains strings being made of anything except steel, although some are tin plated.

Absolutely right and a very special kind of steel that usually goes by the name of "music wire" oddly enough. Main use is not musical instrument strings. Primary usage is in the manufacture of all types of coil springs (because of the high tensile strength).

I once did an analysis and - if memory serves - concluded that stresses in a high "E" string could approach 200,000 PSI (pounds per square inch). That indicates a high degree of consistency in the material production !

Even the so-called bronze accoustic strings have music wire (steel) cores and of course the unwound strings are always steel.

[SamBooka]

Good to know!

[asedas]

I use TI Swing, TI GB and LaBella Black Nylon Tape Wound. LaBella like the most

[Bluesman1960]

I'm using D'Addario Chromes 12's on my 175. Gives me the sounds that I want-nice and jazzy on the neck, but clear, and a bit of attack on the bridge if I'm doing rockabilly or pretending to be Scotty. They feel nice and smooth on my fingers, and seem to last forever. Wound G-string. I have the dreaded string-rot skin (Allergy to nickel, I can't even wear 9ct Gold!), and on my solid-body guitars I use Fender Stainless bullets-10's. Even with SS, If I don't change them every 3rd 2-hour gig I blister terribly on the pads between my fingers and strings snap. Normal Nickels are gone after one gig with me. The Chromes-they don't give me any problems at all, and I can play for hours with them. Just something to be aware of, as I know nickel allergy is a growing problem with men, and especially men who play guitar. Once the new string twang goes they're very nice.

Will I have to do any bridge adjustment? I just bought a set of the Chrome 12-52's. The tension is greater. Any adjustment necessary? Thanks.
Michael

[billkath]

Well, I'd do a standard setup, if it were my guitar. In other words-I'd restring and bring up to concert pitch. I'd then check the relief and adjust the trussrod to get it where I want to. The nut should be fine if it was OK before, but check that the strings aren't binding and when pressing each string down at the third fret, check that there is a tiny amount of clearance over the first fret. Next I'd adjust the action, getting it to where you want it. Finally, check the intonation.
It's a good thing to learn how to do these things yourself. Apart from the nut adjustment, they're all pretty easy. Adjusting the nut? Well, I do this myself too, but it might be a good idea to let a technician do it as he has the nut slot files and knows about string angle over the nut etc. It's not the kind of job that has to be done oftern, the nut, so it's worth the few bucks to get it done right.

I will say, I hated the nut that came standard on my Epi ES-175. It was badly finished, incorrectly cut, both the slots and the sshape and width, and the slots weren't spaced right. I changed the nut for a Graphtech.

This is the nut you want
eBay.ie: Graphtech Tusq Nut PQ-6060-00 Epiphone (item 150426359885 end time 28-Mar-10 20:46:20 BST)

You simply take off the old nut ( a slight tap on the fretboard face side of the nut with a small drift of wood is enough to remove it), Clean the groove where the nut was. Get some fine 800 grade sandpaper and sand both side edges of the nut by the same amount so that the new nut is the perfect width of the guitar. Take your time-constantly placing it back on the guitar to check. When it's perfect, give the nut a good polish and clean. I use the finest wet and dry paper, then really fine steel wool, then I polish it. Put on 3 drops of slow-setting superglue (the type that gives you 3 minutes to slide the nut around), restring and leave for 24 hours-the strings put enough tension on to hold the new nut.
The slots are cut very well as is-hardly any adjustment is needed, and it's a much better nut than the standard one. You could always just give it to a tech-they'd do it very quickly for you.

[BigDaddyLoveHandles]

As far as nuts go, I'm old school and have always had unbleached bone, but I was reading another thread were they raved about fossilized walrus ivory -- about the only ivory you can legally get these days since elephant ivory is illegal.

[Bluesman1960]

Well, I'd do a standard setup, if it were my guitar. In other words-I'd restring and bring up to concert pitch. I'd then check the relief and adjust the trussrod to get it where I want to. The nut should be fine if it was OK before, but check that the strings aren't binding and when pressing each string down at the third fret, check that there is a tiny amount of clearance over the first fret. Next I'd adjust the action, getting it to where you want it. Finally, check the intonation.
It's a good thing to learn how to do these things yourself. Apart from the nut adjustment, they're all pretty easy. Adjusting the nut? Well, I do this myself too, but it might be a good idea to let a technician do it as he has the nut slot files and knows about string angle over the nut etc. It's not the kind of job that has to be done oftern, the nut, so it's worth the few bucks to get it done right.

I will say, I hated the nut that came standard on my Epi ES-175. It was badly finished, incorrectly cut, both the slots and the sshape and width, and the slots weren't spaced right. I changed the nut for a Graphtech.

This is the nut you want
eBay.ie: Graphtech Tusq Nut PQ-6060-00 Epiphone (item 150426359885 end time 28-Mar-10 20:46:20 BST)

You simply take off the old nut ( a slight tap on the fretboard face side of the nut with a small drift of wood is enough to remove it), Clean the groove where the nut was. Get some fine 800 grade sandpaper and sand both side edges of the nut by the same amount so that the new nut is the perfect width of the guitar. Take your time-constantly placing it back on the guitar to check. When it's perfect, give the nut a good polish and clean. I use the finest wet and dry paper, then really fine steel wool, then I polish it. Put on 3 drops of slow-setting superglue (the type that gives you 3 minutes to slide the nut around), restring and leave for 24 hours-the strings put enough tension on to hold the new nut.
The slots are cut very well as is-hardly any adjustment is needed, and it's a much better nut than the standard one. You could always just give it to a tech-they'd do it very quickly for you.

Thanks for the advice regarding the nut.It is rather cheap.I have a saved seller on Ebay that I buy strings from, and he has the Graphtech PQ-6060 for $8.75. I will get one from him. I know a reputable luthier who I will get to re-nut and do setup. Thanks greatly for the info!
Regards,
Michael