The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Yes I actually got lucky and noticed the pin had fallen off, catastrophe-free.......

    So - I found this vid - - -is this the recommended practice,meaning, no glue ? He just wraps masking tape around the pin and re-inserts it.....

    Thx


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  3. #2

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    I'd never glue one, especially on an archtop.
    Good luck if you ever need to take the tailpiece off, you'd have to break it off and drill it out.
    If they were meant to be glued they'd do it at the factory.

  4. #3

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    Over time the masking tape could get gummy and almost act like glue making it really hard to remove. you can wrap some paper around it instead of tape.

  5. #4

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    One thing I've done is to fill the hole by gluing in some sort of soft wood (such as matchsticks) and then using the screw from the strap button to make a new hole.

    To do this, first do dry runs to fit the stick(s) snugly. It usually takes some trial and error to find a combination of whole and/or shaved down sticks to fit.

    Once you've got this figured out, coat the sticks in wood glue (plain old Elmer's white glue works, too), put them in the hole, cut them off as close to flush with the surface as you can without scratching the finish, wipe off any glue that squeezes out, and let it dry. Once it's dry, reinstall the strap button. You shouldn't need to drill it, but if you do, use a hand drill and a bit that's smaller than the screw.

    It doesn't hurt to try the whole process on scraps or wood to get a feel for it. If you actually have small enough dowels on hand, that's probably better than matchsticks, but matchsticks work (and work better than putting tape on the screw).

  6. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by John A.
    One thing I've done is to fill the hole by gluing in some sort of soft wood (such as matchsticks) and then using the screw from the strap button to make a new hole.

    To do this, first do dry runs to fit the stick(s) snugly. It usually takes some trial and error to find a combination of whole and/or shaved down sticks to fit.

    Once you've got this figured out, coat the sticks in wood glue (plain old Elmer's white glue works, too), put them in the hole, cut them off as close to flush with the surface as you can without scratching the finish, wipe off any glue that squeezes out, and let it dry. Once it's dry, reinstall the strap button. You shouldn't need to drill it, but if you do, use a hand drill and a bit that's smaller than the screw.

    It doesn't hurt to try the whole process on scraps or wood to get a feel for it. If you actually have small enough dowels on hand, that's probably better than matchsticks, but matchsticks work (and work better than putting tape on the screw).
    I have done the matchstick process with door hinge screws and that worked...But this pin is the non-screw type, yes more like a dowel.....

    So paper or tape wrapped around it keeps making sense....although I really couldn't believe how much the guy in the vid forced it back in once he'd applied that tape.......I could just see me putting a crack in mine.......: )

    ....speaking of tape, maybe plumbers tape would work, and not add any risk of getting gummy like masking tape's adhesive ..... ( ? ).....

    Thanks....

  7. #6

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    I use wood filler for this purpose. Once I fill the hole, I wait for a 5-10 mins, just enough that the filler is thickened but not hardened, then I put a small hole in the middle with a nail. Once the fill dries, I screw the pin in the hole. It's important to not to force a screw without making a hole first. You don't want to create too much lateral stress in the wood. Also the hole in the middle helps the filler dry evenly.
    Last edited by Tal_175; 01-13-2022 at 02:14 PM.

  8. #7

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    I take a peg reamer, it puts a tapered bore on the hole surface. Then I take a dowel of hardwood, sand it to match the bore and glue that in snugly. Cut the end off and YIKES counter drill a small hole and screw in a brass strap button. I always soap or use bees wax on a metal thread to wood interface.
    Yeah I'm not a traditionalist, and I tend towards the roadworthy professional's tool setup but it's the way I set up guitars for professionals who come to me. Do this. Put it out of your mind for the rest of your time with the instrument.
    Note: Vintage collectors, do it your own way. This is not the best way to treat a pristine John D'Angelico museum piece.

  9. #8

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    You can wrap the pin with thread or thin cord before tapping it back in.

  10. #9

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    You can use some wood filler, get a little in the hole, then put the endpin in and let it dry. Or use paper or whatever around the pin. Some pins have a groove along the shaft, and a round toothpick put there, then forced in along with the endpin, will often hold it in place. If there is no groove, one can be made, with a file or other tool. Or just a very thin sliver of wood along the side of the endpin. There are a number of options, and the best depends on what you actually have on hand and the condition of the hole and the pin.

  11. #10

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    You can wrap the endpin with Teflon tape used for plumbing fittings. Provides a tight compression fit when the pin is pushed back in and no glue or adhesive to get mucky.

  12. #11

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    I once learned a nice trick which I've used several times now.

    You put a little bit of cotton into the screw-hole and add some drops of super glue. Then you just put the screw back after applying some dish-soap onto it. The screw is still removable, bit it'll have something to grip.

  13. #12

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    ......Thanks for all the suggestions..I used what I had - Teflon Tape and wrapped it around the pin, then tapped it back into place............

    Now I had better get back to some practicing..... : )