Laminated vs. Solid Top - String gauge difference?

[Musgo Real]

Hello members,
I have read some threads here in the forum that deal thematically about string gauges and also which strength is preferred. I asked myself whether, for example, 13 or 14 string sets are better used only on acoustic archtops with a solid top or whether laminated tops can also withstand the tensile forces of these stronger strings? How are your experiences with stronger string sets of flatwounds or strings such as bronze, nickel bronze and monels on acoustic archtops with laminated tops? Were there any problems like warped tops?

[Archie]

Hello members,
I have read some threads here in the forum that deal thematically about string gauges and also which strength is preferred. I asked myself whether, for example, 13 or 14 string sets are better used only on acoustic archtops with a solid top or whether laminated tops can also withstand the tensile forces of these stronger strings? How are your experiences with stronger string sets of flatwounds or strings for acoustic guitars such as bronze, nickel bronze and monels on acoustic archtops with laminated tops? Were there any problems like warped tops?

Laminate tops should be stronger than carved and not all carved tops are carved to the same thickness so it's not an easy answer.

Laminate guitars usually have a duller sound and the inclusion of heavy gauge flat wounds could make that too dull or bass heavy. Heavy bottom strings on a carved top will also potentially make the guitar too bass heavy.
You end up with a woofing sound especially if you go up the fret board.
As a pay off you do get better treble response from heavier gauge sets.
That being said if you get a 16" laminate maple with a thin top it could counter act that the inherent bass issues you get from heavy strings. Of course they might dull the top due to added down force.

Lighter round wound strings usually cut through laminate and solid tops better making them more lively. I find that round wounds on solid tops can help create more even tone. That's usually why my preference is for half wounds, on solid tops.

A lot of solid tops do sink a little as wood compresses under tension over time but it shouldn't be to a point where they distort or become structurally weak.

If you put very heavy strings on a solid top you run the risk of course of causing damage however, a good top should be fine.

Regarding bronze etc.. I have no preference. They seem to be more for acoustic guitars ime.

[Musgo Real]

Once again learned something new. I always thought that solid tops are more resilient than laminated tops. Maybe it's just because of the word solid that gave me this impression.

[sgosnell]

Plywood is stronger than solid wood because the grain runs in multiple directions. That is true whether the laminate layers are thick or thin. Solid wood is more resilient, thus giving better acoustic sound, but resilience is not the same thing as strength. I tend to put heavier strings on solid carved tops, because heavier strings generally drive the top better, and thus more volume, but this isn't always the case. Some tops, especially thinner carved ones, can be better with somewhat lighter strings, because heavier ones can muffle the sound a little. I usually use .012 or .013 sets, depending on the guitar. Some seem to like heavier, some lighter.

[deacon Mark]

A fine well made acoustic archtop like a Super 400 or and L5 should easily take pretty much any normal gage strings. You could go from .11-.50 or even .15 to 58 and not be in trouble. If trouble comes up with heavy gages then something is up with the guitar structurally. The normal gages I use are .12-52 or .13-52 depending. .15 is just getting pretty big and will produce sound but might develop some calluses you did not have.

Laminated guitars like a Tal or 175 you just buy a bunch of strings and experiment so see what works best. No exact formula and in fact that could be said for a carved top. In my case my Hollenbeck 18 inch guitar plays the best with .12-52. It has huge power and putting say a .13 to .56 is fine for acoustic only playing.
The guitar has such power that using the amp for big strings is counter-productive and it sounds better through the amp with lighter strings. Heavier strings produce a much more initial attack and for chord melody and single line they might not sound as good as lighter strings that respond less initially.

Jim Hall used a 175 with pretty light strings and his sound was amazing. His touch much different that Joe Pass who used his 175 with D'aquisto flatwounds. It really depends on what you are looking for in sound. If you have a guitar you just got and you love it and are trying to dial in what you want the best bet is simply spend about $75 on a whole bunch of different strings and sets from light to heavier. Think of this as a cheap repair bill of $75 and you get to have some fun seeing what you like.

Also try a Les Paul with roundwound strings from .12-54 and use the neck pickup. Setting up the amp correct and you can get one amazing jazz guitar sound. I have done this with my son's Lester through my Polytone.

[Musgo Real]

You should really try different string gauges on every guitar to find the best combination. Although I have recognized that if you have found a brand that you like in terms of sound, this does not mean that the same set of strings also sounds good with a different string gauge. The highest string gauge I've used so far is a 12 set of Phillippe Bosset Soft Brass 80/20, for my western guitar and a 13 set of Jazz Swing for my EXL 1. The 80/20`s are much harder to play than the Jazz Swing.