The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #26

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    I understand your logic now. And I suppose that would help to keep the pickup steady as well. On the other hand, if you want sound isolation, some soft material might be in order, so that vibrations are not transmitted to the pickguard.

    I think I am done all of the trouble shooting I will do today. I got the strings changed, to ones with silk wrap but did not seem to solve the problem. I am still not sure what it is that's bothering me. I have not been able to connect it to any particular note or frequency.

    I recall early tailpiece failures. It's my understanding that it was redesigned quite a few years ago now and is no longer a problem.

    In the past I have also suspected a truss rod rattle. I tried some minor truss rod adjustments but that did not make any difference this time.

    Danielle

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  3. #27

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    I have the same year and model Eastman. The early stock PUs were terrible. I replaced mine with a Benedetto 6 and the difference was huge. The stock PU literally fell apart when I removed it. I cannot complain about any of the rest of the build and I really like the lightness of the top.

  4. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Soloway
    As noted, 2005 is very early for Eastman. They have come a long way and their prices reflect the changes. Without seeing the guitar, my opinion is of limited value, but my gut feeling is that the cost of improving the guitar is going to be quite high relative to its resale value. You don't seem to really be attached to it any longer, so why not just sell the guitar and put the money into something that works for you without a lot of trouble and cost?
    I will keep your comment in mind. I suspect it really does not make sense to go beyond any simple fret maintenance / basic adjustments. Changing the tailpiece or pickup certainly will not add any (financial) value to the instrument.

    Danielle

  5. #29

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    I am realizing there is a real negative to playing this instrument as it is. Because I struggle to get clear sounding notes, I play this guitar with a tighter left hand grip. I think I am literally hurting myself playing it.

    Danielle

  6. #30

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    Get the frets leveled and crowned... it's not very costly and may be a huge improvement.

  7. #31

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    I spent about an hour with my friend looking at this guitar today. We found a loose screw under the pickup mounting tab. She was able to bend that tab enough where I could put the pickguard assembly back on the guitar have the pickup off of the guitar top.

    We did play it while holding the whole pickguard assembly in our hand and could still hear an irritating high frequency rattle. We suspect it's coming from the tail end of the guitar but really were not sure if it was from the tailpiece or some other device down there. Time did not permit us to start taking that apart. Debating what would happen if the ebony cover was not secure on the tailpiece.

    We were not sure how that end pin jack and tailpiece are assembled. We noted that there is no nut inside the guitar on the end pin jack.

    Danielle

  8. #32

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    I left my guitar at the repair shop. A number of the frets were out alignment and it was obvious using the small rocking tool. He will level and do a full set up. The luthier said he has been adding paper pad between the brass and the ebony cover on some of those Eastman tailpieces and will do that. I will report back in a few weeks after I get the guitar back.

    Danielle

  9. #33

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    Leveling and crowning after 8 years, its makes sense. For the tailpiece, I could not be happier now that I have a Benedetto installed.

    Good luck and keep us informed

    Daniel

  10. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanTheMan
    I have a 2006 AR810. The guitar has a great tone but with annoying buzzing from the floating pick-up and pick-guard. I have a hate-love relation with the guitar but it seems that it comes from the pick-up assembly. The problem is that I love the tone I get from the pick-up....

    The pick-up is a Kent Armstrong single coils with the poles adjusted for bronze string. One day I will either:

    1- Replace it with a thinner, neck mounted pick-up and uses nickel strings
    2- Get rid of the pick-up as I use the guitar acoustically most of the time.

    If you finaly find that a significant portion of the noise comes from the electronics please let us know.

    And, yes, the finish is fragile.

    Daniel
    Sounds too simple but my 2005 had a slight buzz/vibration issue and I tightened the two little screws that hold the finger rest onto the underside of the neck. I went ahead and tightened the machine head screws too and I haven't had an issue since. I have the original Eastman branded pickup that everyone on the net bashes but everyone who hears that guitar comments and compliments on the "gorgeous sound" of that guitar.

  11. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpguitar
    Get the frets leveled and crowned... it's not very costly and may be a huge improvement.
    This is the best possible advice. I've found that sometimes the objective difference between a top dollar guitar and a bottom feeder is the setup. Having a qualified professional so your instrument can make more of a difference than swapping out pickups or changing tailpieces.

    As a matter of fact, I have two Eastman guitars that have been Plekked. They sound and play every bit as good as my vintage Epiphones or Heritage Eagles.

  12. #36

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    I have been playing my AR805CE a few days now after getting it back. After fret leveling, crowning, and full set up it is much more easier to play and consistent. However I do find it takes more effort to get a clean sound, playing acoustically at home, when compared to my AR503CE or even my AR371CE.

    The luthier did put a paper damper between the tailpiece brass and the ebony cover. He also put putty into the tailpiece hinge assembly.

    I am beginning to think a lot of this just relates to neck / fretboard characteristics, with the primary one being the fretboard radius. I have no gauges here but the AR805CE feels like it has a greater radius. I also think the bright acoustic nature of the instrument makes any improper fretting technique very noticeable.


    Danielle

  13. #37

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    Can you be more specific about "more effort for clean sound"? Do you mean you mean more left hand pressure to fret the strings? If so, which strings and areas of the fretboard? And more effort compared to what? -- another guitar?

  14. #38

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    I have been comparing to my Eastman AR503CE and AR371CE. Those two guitars have the same frets. I do not know what frets are in the AR805CE.

    I don't think I can relate this to specific frets or areas on the fretboard. I do find I have to watch the lateral position of the bridge, and make sure that first string does not get too close to the edge of the fret.

    When I say extra effort to fret, I mean that I find I have to be more careful with the AR805CE to fret the note so that the finger falls as close as to the fret as possible. Applying more than reasonable pressure seems to make no difference at all. I find I need to be very accurate with fingering when playing chord melody especially using those top 4 strings. I think I am finding it helps not to drive the guitar hard with the right hand, but somehow that seems odd from an acoustic archtop perspective. I believe those guitars were originally designed to be played hard with real energy.

    My Eastman AR503CE is now with the same luthier for a proper setup. Although he will not be doing any fret work, he will be looking at the nut and bridge grooves. I suspect when he is done I will have two guitars with similar setup.

    I do note the AR503CE tailpiece does not have a hinge. The AR805CE does.

    A friend of mine played it briefly last night and agreed the guitar was sounding much better. We were thinking the tailpiece work made a difference. (Paper damper between the ebony and brass, and putty in the hinge)

    Danielle

  15. #39

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    I tried using some picks here in lieu of feeler gauges. I held the string down spanning 3 frets and then checked the height on both guitars. Not sure I really have enough accuracy here but did not notice any difference between the 2 guitars.

    On each guitar a 1 mm pick would easily drop into the space between the string and the fretboard and a 1.14 mm pick would not drop into the space. (Used smooth Dunlop ultem picks)

    (Checked my AR805CE and my AR371CE)

  16. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielleOM
    The luthier did put a paper damper between the tailpiece brass and the ebony cover. He also put putty into the tailpiece hinge assembly.

    I am beginning to think a lot of this just relates to neck / fretboard characteristics, with the primary one being the fretboard radius.
    Danielle
    Considering what the luthier did to the tailpiece I am not surprised that changing mine on my 2006 AR810 for an all-wood benedetto improved the tone!

    For the radius, if the luthier did a fret leveling and crowning he must know what is the radius, did you ask? Too bad that you are not happy with it. Do you plan to keep it? Do you still play it?

    Daniel

  17. #41

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    (Paper damper between the ebony and brass, and putty in the hinge)

    That is a bit of a bodge job. The eastman AR805CE should have an ebony board and a 12" radius the radius of the floating bridge should match the fret radius, the AR805's seem to have the strings quite close to the edges of the fretboard might be something to do with the 1.75 nut width, it could be cured by having a new nut fitted with the string spacing narrowed slightly and the the slots recut on the floating bridge, there should be enough wood to sand the top of the bridge down to recut the slots and radius the bridge. If the fret dress has lowered the frets substantially and left them flat topped (they should be half an oval in shape) it will affect the intonation and could cause buzzing and will also encourage the strings to slip of the fretboard especially with light guage strings.

    This guitar has 12/50 flatwounds on, the action height is 1mm treble side and just over 1mm on the bass side there is no tendency for the strings to slip off the fretboard.

    Eastman AR805CE-fret-3-jpg

    Eastman AR805CE-fret-4-jpg

  18. #42

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanTheMan
    Considering what the luthier did to the tailpiece I am not surprised that changing mine on my 2006 AR810 for an all-wood benedetto improved the tone!

    For the radius, if the luthier did a fret leveling and crowning he must know what is the radius, did you ask? Too bad that you are not happy with it. Do you plan to keep it? Do you still play it?

    Daniel

    I have been playing the AR805CE these past few weeks as I left my AR503CE with the luthier for some work. I found it interesting to note that the tailpiece on the AR503CE does not have a hinge. They had a couple of Campellone guitars in stock and I noted those ones did not have a hinge in the tailpiece.

    At this point in time, I plan to keep the Eastman AR805CE, as it is the only real full size carved top archtop I have.


    Danielle

  19. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by Para
    (Paper damper between the ebony and brass, and putty in the hinge)

    That is a bit of a bodge job. The eastman AR805CE should have an ebony board and a 12" radius the radius of the floating bridge should match the fret radius, the AR805's seem to have the strings quite close to the edges of the fretboard might be something to do with the 1.75 nut width, it could be cured by having a new nut fitted with the string spacing narrowed slightly and the the slots recut on the floating bridge, there should be enough wood to sand the top of the bridge down to recut the slots and radius the bridge. If the fret dress has lowered the frets substantially and left them flat topped (they should be half an oval in shape) it will affect the intonation and could cause buzzing and will also encourage the strings to slip of the fretboard especially with light guage strings.

    This guitar has 12/50 flatwounds on, the action height is 1mm treble side and just over 1mm on the bass side there is no tendency for the strings to slip off the fretboard.

    Eastman AR805CE-fret-3-jpg

    Eastman AR805CE-fret-4-jpg


    The bridge could have easily shifted laterally after I brought the guitar home after having the work done. I do know I was experimenting a little and was playing it aggressively. I find that with normal playing I do have to reposition the bridge occasionally, (every few months).

    I don't have the eyes or the optical tools here, to really compare frets and profiles. When it's time for me to pick up the AR503CE, I will bring my AR805CE back, and see if we can compare frets and radius. I would not count on any Eastman conforming to any standard, especially the early ones. At one time they would have very obvious variations for a specific model. e.g. pickguard shape

    I suspect the AR503CE and AR805CE do have a different fretboard radius. They certainly feel much different to me.

    Since you mention strings, this guitar is now setup with Pyramid, Gold 12 - 50, round core, (nickel) flatwound strings.

    (bodge job) ? Seemed like a reasonable low cost thing to do. (He did not charge me for that). Apparently he has had good results in the past adding the paper damper, as it would dampen any rattle, buzz, between the decorative ebony, piece and the brass tailpiece. I could not detect any sonic negative effect that occurred by adding that dampening material. It's my understanding Eastman added the ebony for decorative, esthetic reasons.

    Danielle
    Last edited by DanielleOM; 08-05-2015 at 08:06 AM.

  20. #44

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    Hi, this is my first post. I've been on and off this forum for the past few years but just now made an account. I've always wanted to learn jazz guitar but always hesitated to start. I started shopping for a guitar with a Gibson L5 in mind, but after a bit of shopping and a few helpful tips from forums members I decided to seriously consider an Eastman after all the good things folks had to say about them, especially the price point for a fully hand carved guitar. I'm very shallow when it comes to guitars, I have a weakness for beautiful woods. In the begining I've always thought Eastman had "not so great" flamed maple for their guitars, the patterns were either weirdly figured or just mediocre at best, some were even book matched strangely. When I found this one I knew I had to have it, the most beautiful back/sides I'd ever seen on an Eastman. Snatched it right up, strung up with flatwounds and it sounds amazing. I had a 1949 Epiphone Zenith in the past and I thought that was loud for an archtop but this Eastman projects so well and very loud. The tone is sweet and every bit a jazz box as some of the more expensive U.S./European made. Might not have quite the prestige but defintely can hold its own. I love this one so much I ordered a non-cutaway version as well. Here are some photos.

    Enjoy!





    And this one is on it's way, it comes with a custom made Campellone pick guard. Though it looks a little funny since I think it's made for a cutaway




    Last edited by Vee_voe; 10-03-2016 at 01:51 PM.

  21. #45

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    WELCOME !!

    A truly nice guitar. Had my share of Eastmans and I can attest to their sound and value and looks. That classic finish (violin) is so striking in person - many Eastmans are hard to photograph well, it's easy not to see how gorgeous they are when in the hand. You did well.

    And as for fellas being "shallow" liking really figured wood. Welcome to that very large club. Nothing shallow about it at all.

    Big

    (ps, this was my first one, got it from a member here (before I knew of this place). It's a real early prototype Eastman made for their first NAMM show... (Mr Wu said it was the fifth one he did) what they didn't sell eventually were given as artist endorsement pieces, Eastman didn't even have anyone that knew engraving at the time and thus it had no name on the headstock. Soon as I saw that wood I had to have it.

    Eastman AR805CE-pb260026-jpg
    Last edited by BigMikeinNJ; 10-03-2016 at 09:26 AM.

  22. #46

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    I used to own an East Anniversary but with a cutaway. I ended up selling it to my guitar teach who has gigged with consistently, week after week for 100s of gigs and it sounds divine.

  23. #47

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    Congratulations on a beautiful guitar! I think their wood binding really makes the instrument "pop", along with the violin finish.


  24. #48

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    I played an Eastman 805 Anniversary model and was very impressed with it. The only reason I didn't buy it is because I wanted a 17" and found a nice deal on a 910 which is a wonderful guitar.

    Enjoy and welcome to the forum.

  25. #49

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    Nice looking guitar Vee_Voe, I see that someone has added Kent Armstrong 12 pole floater and a Sadowsky saddle/bridge. I've fitted this saddle to a couple of my guitars with positive results. Enjoy

  26. #50

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    Wow good eye there Rob, yeah these upgrades came with the guitar. The original owner also had sound posts installed as well, one which fell out during shipping so I removed the other one also. I didn't even know about the Sadowsky saddle/bridge until you mentioned it and i googled it. Just an hour ago I order 2 bi-pod bridges from stewmac thinking it was an upgrade but I guess I wont have to do a thing to the 805CE, I'm also replacing the tailpiece on the non-cutaway with a kluson trapeze. I heard factory Eastman electronics arent all that great, so I guess the Kent Armstrong better? I'm still learning as I go.
    Last edited by Vee_voe; 10-03-2016 at 04:03 PM.