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Get a Reranch lacquer pen. Dropfill patiently. Unless you are skilled at scraping the end result won't be pretty but acceptable.
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10-08-2019 12:34 AM
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Dang, it looks like that end of the fretboard is separating from the neck...?
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From the look of the 2nd pic, it looks like poly - lacquer wouldn't be that thick. If it is poly, then as pointed out above, it would need to be cleaned up, the bare wood stained to match the finish and then 'drop filled'. This would normally mean filling with thick CA glue ( although possible some thick UV glue would work as well) and then carefully scraped, rubbed down and buffed. It's not complicated but it is fiddly and needs some care. There are vids on stewmac about CA drop filling, altho' Dan makes it seem easier than it actually is.
Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
The alternative, as it's not too bad, is just to wet sand it down and buff it. I think that's what I'd do in this case: some 6000 grit paper and a steady hand should do the job. It's probably not worth paying for a pro repair.
Poly is a cost-effective and durable finish, although it doesn't age as nicely as lacquer. Thr only problems come when it chips, or worse, cracks, when whole flakes of finish can lift off. That's why
us nitro cork-sniffers prefer nitro ( and pay for it..) - it's easily repaired, and blends in to the existing finish. Once Poly flakes off, there's no way back unless you glue the flakes back on.
But this tends to happen on older asian guitars, rather than today's models.
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I had the same thought here. Originally Posted by cosmic gumbo
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MIK Broadway should be a poly finish. Originally Posted by sgosnell
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From the look of it, I think cosmic gumbo may be correct. The fingerboard and the neck are made from different types of wood. Each type expands and contracts differently possibly causing the glue to fail where they were joined. I can not be sure judging from a photo. Try to insert a pallet knife or similar in the crack. If there is separation between the neck and fingerboard you need to wick some glue in the crack before you deal with the finish issues. The type of glue depends on what you or your repair person prefers. Super glue is easy to use and strong but not easily reversed. Hot hide glue is reversible and has the advantage of shrinking as it dries. I don't know what type of glue was used originally and how that may affect the repair if one is needed.
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sorry, but from pics alone, that looks to be more than just a finish/cosmetic problem...looks to be from trauma..a hit...and/or a truss rod issue...the truss rod may be exerting pressure on the underside of the fretboard and causing it to lift from the neck...not good!!...have it checked for structrual damage before proceeding with cosmetic repairs....luck....cheers
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I brought to an excellent shop here in northern NJ for a quick scan and possible plan. For those who warned about a possible fingerboard separation....YES! He flexed the neck ever so slightly and sure enough it was becoming unglued. I got a price of $65 For the re-glue and some drop filling. I told them I didn't really care about the look, just that it would be solid and not have anymore flaking. Done. Should be ready next week. Will report back when it's done. Thanks again for the responses!
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Well I negotiated and picked this up for what i thought was a steal. Epiphone Broadway 1946 | Chicago Music Exchange | Reverb
I will let CMI's photographer show it off as my pictures aren't as nice. The positives: it sounds wonderful and plays great. The not so positives: it has a couple cracks on the back that need addressing (stable but not cleated), and the top is loose from the kerfing in a small area on the treble side shoulder. It appears to have a slight amount of top sag, even though the braces are solid and seem to be glued well when looking with my inspection camera. I may be crazy? With how low the bridge is and how close to the body the tailpiece is, I believe the previous neck reset could have been a steeper angle, but the action is less than 2mm so I shouldn't complain.
I'm no expert; do any of the issues scream deal breaker? It's my first acoustic archtop and I'm impressed. I also have some cool photos inside the body of the cracks, and a video I made demonstrating the top separation if anyone is interested. The original tailpiece bracket is cracked, but I plan to have it welded once things have calmed down. On a side note the wartime rosewood crossbar tailpiece is pretty interesting.
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Wow! That's a beautiful guitar. Vintage Epiphones are sound cannons. I've heard them called horn killers because they cut through the brass. As long as it plays and doesn't buzz or anything, and the string height is good, no worries. A good local luthier can survey it for you and advise on any corrective actions, if necessary. That's what I like to do when dealing with vintage instruments. It's like having a mechanic check out a used vehicle.
Looks like a great guitar.
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Got my eye on a Broadway that seems like a great deal and would like some advice.
The current owner states that it’s a 2013, natural, with Gibson pickups, Micarta nut. Looks to be in excellent shape from the pics. We’ve texted back and forth and he doesn’t know which pickups are in the guitar but somehow knows they’re Gibson’s. Odd.
I’ve been lusting for a sunburst Elitist (very hard to find) for some time now and natural isn’t really my fave but the price is great and I wouldn’t wanna pass up a great deal for my modest abilities based on the finish.
He says the frets are in great shape and the intonation is spot on.
So what’s the general consensus on these models? I know the electronics are typically the weak link for Epi’s but if the genero Alnicos have been swapped for, say, 57’s, would that be the Achilles heel issue solved, or should I probe into other areas for potential headaches? Would the year identify where it was built or were there crossovers between factories? Looks like a sweet box and I’m ready to get back into archtop territory after selling the 175.
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I have a '45 Zenith with a similar tailpiece. I feel it enhances the tone by providing an "auto-damp" for the TP, nullifying over-ring. Mine came as a fixer-upper; the finish had been stripped completely from the instrument save for what covered the heel cap. Which sounds pretty bad until you find out that the entire guitar, except for the fretboard, had been covered with silver metalflake paint. The previous owner had been a Country player, and had supposedly received the instrument from Willie Nelson as a member of his band. I don't know how much credence to attach to this, but for sentimental reasons I like to think of it that this humble instrument was the instrument with which Willie wrote "Crazy".
Which is to say that Old Epiphones are worth, to me, all the TLC necessary to bring them up to snuff.
BTW, on its way back to me after all this work, the guitar was scuffed on the back from the wester-shirt buttons of a local jazz guitar legend Bill Huber, known in local lore as the man to whom Chet Atkins came to study with. Back in the day I used to put up with a certain amount of guff from some of his students on that very point ( my teacher can whup your teacher [hardly difficult as I had had none]) . I thought it ironic that the great man had blessed my guitar with his physical presence. Apparently BH had seen it at the home of the friend who had acted as middleman for the luthier who had done the restoration and demanded to play it; he just couldn't put it down. I applaud his taste, it's a sweet li'l thing. And those scuff marks, the seal of approval of a truly great guitarist, will not be buffed out on my watch!
Best of luck with your new guitar. Congratulations, and play it in good health!
Last edited by citizenk74; 04-05-2020 at 04:55 PM.
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How good of a deal?
Cheap enough, replace pickups with whatever you want and you got a great guitar.
Really, you got a great guitar even if you don't change a thing.
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I have a Broadway sunburst and once had an elitist. The Elitist is an incredibly fine guitar. I sold it to help pay for an L5ces. I still have the MiK Broadway. I use it as a kind of test for my guitar modding skills, so it has suffered a bit, but I still love the guitar and enjoy playing it. If you have a sound Broadway and a good price, you'll be happy with it. The StewMac Parson Street PAF pickups are very nice in a Broadway.
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I put a StewMac Parson Street PAF in my 175 based on your recommendation and loved it. I think I can get the Broadway for $400 with case, maybe less depending on the condition when I put actual eyes on it. I actually tried to get that gorgeous SB Elitist from you awhile back but my timing and offer was both late and lacking. Originally Posted by lawson-stone
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Seriously, if you pass at $400, give the seller my info.
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Nice guitar! I'm a big fan of vintage Epis, and have repaired/resurrected/own quite a few. Yes, a slight amount of top sag, but if the braces are tight, shouldn't be an issue. The bridge top does look cut down(the protruding threaded shafts are one giveaway), so the neck angle is low, but if it plays well, it's good for now(although perhaps in the future, you'll want to consider a neck reset, to optimize the tone and volume). And the original case! Enjoy!
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Thanks, it sounds like that Zenith had a wild ride! I also noticed that the rosewood tailpiece has way less unwanted ring than a metal one, won't need the ribbon to dampen this one.
It is pretty loud right now with 12s, and I think it would live up to that horn killer notion with some heavier strings (or a little higher action). Once the statewide lockdown is over I will have a luthier take a look! I know the back cracks will need work, and I just hope I wont have to be without the guitar for much more than a month.
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The original case has been through a war, but it is cool to have. Will need to find a sturdier case to play out with it. It is basically decked so going up a gauge and maintaining action may mean shaving the bridge slightly more I suppose. As far as i can see the braces seem good. No rattles when tapping along them, and the appear to be glued in well but I'm just eyeballing it. Are there any other telltale signs of brace issues? I would hate to get it setup for heavier strings and worsen the top. Here's a shot of the neck angle.
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Paying just $400, you could spring for the Seymour Duncan Seth Lover, which is a very nice sounding pickup. I do love the StewMac Parson Street PAF, but I think the SDSL sets the standard for PAF copies. It depends on your budget. Originally Posted by Esport
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I support this recommendation. The Seth Lover pickups are so nice. In fact, I plan to put a pair in my Epiphone Broadway. I got mine for $500 with case and thought THAT was a good deal. If you can get one for $400 and its in decent shape, jump on it. Like Lawson, I have done a little customizing on mine. Here are some pics showing the keystone tuner buttons, custom truss rod cover, L-5 pick guard and Gibson style bracket. Next up will be pickups, pots, switch, jack and wiring. I will for sure use Seymour Duncan Seth Lover pickups win gold. Good luck with the purchase. Just amazing guitars to fiddle around with. Originally Posted by lawson-stone
Roli
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I’m hoping to meet up this week with the seller to take a look. If all goes well, I’ll bring it home and do a proper test before deciding on any mods. Part of me is considering a P90 conversion but that may pass. Don’t need to think about such things before even sealing the deal.
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I did this quick clip "Just Friends" with the Jimmy Raney solo to record my 1990's (Peerless) Epiphone Broadway with the StewMac Parson Street PAF pickup. Played through a Fender Tone Master Twin Reverb, recorded via the XLR out. I also thought I"d hunt for the "nearly breaking up" boundary on the amp so you might hear a little bit of that.
This has some chordal playing and is pretty much everywhere on the neck so you hear the pickup's response. I love the thick high's it produces.
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Sounding good! I hear the little twinge of break-up, there. I rarely pushed the Stew Mac to that point, but it doesn’t sound bad with a lil dose of hair on it. Sure do love the look of your SB, too!
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