Peerless Leela - Is this a mistake?

[Woody Sound]

Done! See previous post.

Sorry, bad post timing.

[Sam Sherry]

Let's apply a little skeptical analysis to GNJ's statement. (NOT to MHoranzy -- there's no reason to doubt MH.)

GuitarsnJazz in New Jersey . . . sell tons of peerless). Here’s {what they say about being undercut by Sam Ash}

This is a merchant talking about its competitor. Buckle up!

Most of the Peerless guitars offered by Sam Ash

1. Unless you've been told this by someone who works for Sam Ash, how could you possibly know what proportion?

are older closeout/overstock models

2. You mean they're missing the latest groundbreaking innovations in archtop guitar manufacturing?
Or they're only as good as the ones you sold last year?
Or they're not as good as your unsold inventory?

at huge discounts

3. The most likely way you would know this is if you couldn't or didn't buy them yourself. Either way, not a problem for the alert customer.

because they were in their warehouse for a long time

4. See #2 above.

and many are seconds that may require repair.

5. a) Again, how would you know?
b) As anybody who has studied Gibson history knows, there are seconds and there are "seconds."
c) Candor with respect to "may" is appreciated.
d) Because unless you got told by Sam Ash, there is no way you could know whether Sam Ash has made all required or advisable repairs before selling these instruments.

Many

6. Again, how do you know?

have the tailpiece mounted incorrect so it is resting on the top, reducing the acoustic tone

7. . . . of this electric guitar . . .

and making it impossible to change the strings.

8. Taking this entirely at face value, three fixes come to mind:
a) Remove the tailpiece; bend it a little; reinstall using the three factory screws in the three factory holes.
b) Remove the tailpiece; reinstall in a slightly elevated position.
c) Replace the tailpiece and consider the cost as part of the bargain you got on the guitar.

Some have improper pickguard height.

9. You'll have to adjust the pickguard height. Or maybe -- gasp! -- remove the pickguard altogether. Or play it anyway.

Some have no grounding.

10. A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who can solder and has any wire at all.

These are all questions you should ask before buying from Sam Ash so you won't have to deal with the repairs.

11. Can't argue with that. Wise purchasers gather information about what they are purchasing and factor in any extra cost against the savings obtained.

For me 'bagging on your competition' is a negative mark when I am in the market for anything from a guitar to a political candidate, but some people enjoy that sort of thing.

I say, "Sales operative at work." Now I'm going back to work.

[Chazmo]

That's a beautiful color!

[Hammertone]

...A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who [is not an idjit].

Sam: - loved the whole post! My little edited excerpt sums it up, I think.

Except for one thing: never bend any metal on Furutama guitar tailpeces. Almost all of them are made of compressed dryer lint and will fail sooner or later if bent.

[Kentano2000]

So after adjusting the bridge and going over everything with a fine toothed comb, the only thing turning out to be a “second” about this guitar is the slightly crooked headstock inlay. If that’s all that’s needed to cut this axe down to half price then I’m all in. I’m going to enjoy this one for a long time.

[2bornot2bop]

That's one heckuva buy for $899. What can you buy today for $899 besides an Eastman 571, which will sound much brighter than this guitar. Good purchase!

[DMgolf66]

Let's apply a little skeptical analysis to GNJ's statement. (NOT to MHoranzy -- there's no reason to doubt MH.)


This is a merchant talking about its competitor. Buckle up!


1. Unless you've been told this by someone who works for Sam Ash, how could you possibly know what proportion?


2. You mean they're missing the latest groundbreaking innovations in archtop guitar manufacturing?
Or they're only as good as the ones you sold last year?
Or they're not as good as your unsold inventory?


3. The most likely way you would know this is if you couldn't or didn't buy them yourself. Either way, not a problem for the alert customer.


4. See #2 above.


5. a) Again, how would you know?
b) As anybody who has studied Gibson history knows, there are seconds and there are "seconds."
c) Candor with respect to "may" is appreciated.
d) Because unless you got told by Sam Ash, there is no way you could know whether Sam Ash has made all required or advisable repairs before selling these instruments.


6. Again, how do you know?


7. . . . of this electric guitar . . .


8. Taking this entirely at face value, three fixes come to mind:
a) Remove the tailpiece; bend it a little; reinstall using the three factory screws in the three factory holes.
b) Remove the tailpiece; reinstall in a slightly elevated position.
c) Replace the tailpiece and consider the cost as part of the bargain you got on the guitar.


9. You'll have to adjust the pickguard height. Or maybe -- gasp! -- remove the pickguard altogether. Or play it anyway.


10. A ten-minute, zero-cost fix for anyone who can solder and has any wire at all.


11. Can't argue with that. Wise purchasers gather information about what they are purchasing and factor in any extra cost against the savings obtained.

For me 'bagging on your competition' is a negative mark when I am in the market for anything from a guitar to a political candidate, but some people enjoy that sort of thing.

I say, "Sales operative at work." Now I'm going back to work.

Do you know Lou at GuitarsNJazz?

[Sam Sherry]

Do you know Lou at GuitarsNJazz?

Never spoken with him. Never purchased from him.

I don't look often but IMR his site always has sloppy copy. For instance, these three guitars are all described as "without f-holes" but that's only accurate for one of the three. That always puts me off: If you can't get your own inventory right, why should strangers trust you enough to buy remotely?

How about you, DM? Feel free to speak up for Lou, not that you need me to say so.

[Doctor Jeff]

Others can chime in with more direct experience, but my impression of Lou at GnJ is that he runs a good shop. He has been the exclusive dealer for Peerless for a long time, as well as several other well-made foreign guitars.

One can’t really disagree with what he’s saying about the guitars on Sam Ash. Right now there’s no Leila on their website—the only Peerless listed is a Wizard that’s backordered. So it sounds like it’s an inventory blowout thing.

I like the looks of the Leila a lot, particularly in blonde (sadly not available at a sale price). Peerless really hits above their weight. I think they have been limited by difficulties in distribution to the American market, as well as poor marketing including a horrible corporate website.

Just a few more comments: the Peerless are extremely well made, especially the woodwork and binding. The necks are very comfortable—rather narrow, as all Korean-made guitars seem to be. There’s a lot of bling for the buck.

A couple of negatives, if you will...the cheaper models use cheaper electronics and pickups—my
Sunset has Epi Classic 57’s, which are fine but some might want to change out. The finish is thick poly, again not to everyone’s taste. There seem to be some minor finishing things...my guitar has the same logo but with “Since. 1970” on the headstock. Obviously not made by someone familiar with where periods go in a sentence.

That said, they are awesome guitars that fill a void that Gibson and others aren’t focusing on these days (hollow thin line jazz boxes for instance). I think the MSRP on GnJ is just a little high, but still a good deal, and at 25-50% off, a steal.

[christianm77]

No need to do that. On the original pictures the bridge looks fine, they just put it a bit off when they stringed the guitar. The bass string is a bit too much inside on the fretboard as well, and all the strings are a bit off over the pickup polepieces.

Just loosen the strings and move the bridge a bit towards the bass string side and it will align fine.

The bridge on archtops moves freely. Use the polepieces for left right alignment, and the notes on the 12th fret for closer-further. If they are sharp, go a bit back, if flat a bit towards the pickup

yeah just give it a shove

[Kentano2000]

OK gents, so I took the pickup out to check on the top. The verdict says it's solid (see pics below). So, with that in mind, what's the difference between this model and the 40th Anniversary model? I was looking at the specs pic that Jim posted earlier in the thread and this Sam Ash blow out seems to hit everything except the "40" inlay? Please let me know your thoughts. I'm really enjoying this guitar!

[Kentano2000]

Bumping to see if anyone might have any insight on my question above about the difference between the standard and 40th anniversary editions. Also, mine is settling in nicely as I get to know her. I’m really enjoying the playability and the tone coming through my Custom 68 Vibrolux.

[kataan3]

I am new to the forum. I saw this thread and had to chime in. I did a lot of research on this and so far as I can tell the 40th anniversary edition and the non 40th anniversary are identical except the 40 has a "40" inlay on the 12th fret and it has a Ken Armstrong HB pickup. Other than that they are the same guitar.

I picked the last one inventory from Sam Ash about 3 weeks ago. I can tell it had been in storage for some time because the wood had contracted quite a bit and the frets were sticking out of the neck just a little bit.

One week in my humidity controlled guitar/practice room fixed that. The frets are still a little rough but not enough to bother me. Other than that I found nothing wrong with the guitar and it plays and sounds better than my Epi Joe Pass or my Godin 5th Ave Kingpin II (both nice guitars).

As to what the Guitars 'n Jazz guy said. I get it, They sell theirs for $1799 and Sam Ash buys out some overstock and undercuts them by 1/2 or more. That suck and as one of only 2 authorized Peerless dealers in the US they should be pissed off at Peerless. That said I am fairly certain the the only difference between the one they sell and then one I bought is about $1000.

I am pretty sure that buying from them might have some benefits like they probably keeps them in a temperature and humidity controlled room and the probably do a simple setup on them (sort of what Sweetwater does). I don't think these are seconds because they would have to mark them as such. B stock... maybe But I have found no defects, electronic issues, or playability issue with mine.

All to say I am glad I found the deal when I did and was able to snag the last one.

[DMgolf66]

Lou at Guitars N Jazz is wonderful....on many levels. I know him personally and I think very, very highly of him.

[kataan3]

Lou at Guitars N Jazz is wonderful....on many levels. I know him personally and I think very, very highly of him.

I am sure he is and I am only about 1:45 min for his store. I wanted to take a trip last month but not possible with the pandemic lock down. Then I found the one at Sam Ash, I am pretty sure I will be in the market again for another guitar when my next episode of GAS hits lol. It would be nice to go to a store where I can pick up and play things before I buy and the local Guitar Center has a ery poor selection in Archtops.

[Kentano2000]

Thanks for chiming in, Kataan. You’ve come to the same conclusions I have about this Sam Ash blowout. BTW, this one also has the Kent Armstrong pickup. It’s a wonderful guitar and I can’t believe it was available for the price it was going for. The more I play it the more I really appreciate it.

[Monkeybrains]

Lovely looking guitar.

[paul s.]

I bought a Sam ash Leela for $1000 in June 2019. The guitar looks and sounds great. However the tailpiece is off kilter, resulting in the high e string pulling off fretboard on certain attacks. The neck was a bit wonky but that maybe the case on many non-second guitars). Luckily I was at the time taking a class at my techs shop so was able to dial in the neck and frets better. He did a temp fix by adjusting the bridge and gluing, but the string still pulls off fretboard at times. My tech has seen this before and is going to redrill the tailpiece holes (at no more cost as we started looking at this during class) I just need to get back there and drop if off. I’ve read elsewhere that this even happens on some L5s