The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Hi the new D'angelico bridge isn't sitting on top of the guitar perfectly, slightly leaning towards the neck. You can see a little gap between the backside of the bridge and the top of the guitar. I did loosen the strings and force the bridge straight up but it naturally wants to lean forward even without the tension of the strings. I did contact Dangelico to see what they say but thought I'd check for input here also.

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  3. #2

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    My Eastman 810 did the same thing. Nothing you can really do except buy a better bridge.

  4. #3

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    It's possible, not necessarily the case but possible, that the holes in the base are not quite vertical. One thing you could try is to reverse the base, keeping the saddle as is, and see if that helps a little. Far from certain, but it's a cheap and relatively easy thing to try. If that doesn't help, you can get some sandpaper and fit the base to the top.
    Fitting an archtop bridge, easily and accurately | stewmac.com

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    It's possible, not necessarily the case but possible, that the holes in the base are not quite vertical. One thing you could try is to reverse the base, keeping the saddle as is, and see if that helps a little. Far from certain, but it's a cheap and relatively easy thing to try. If that doesn't help, you can get some sandpaper and fit the base to the top.
    Fitting an archtop bridge, easily and accurately | stewmac.com
    Thank you so much I reversed the base and it's much better now!

  6. #5

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    Just what I did on the Hollenbeck guitar in the blond thread today infact. I used some sandpaper to completely have the bridge flush with the top. It was not leaning but I thought a better fit would be better. I use 220 and go slow marking everything with pencil to keep things center as you sand. A bit of a PITA but nice when done.

  7. #6

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    a typical floating bridge is comprised of 3 basic sections...the base, the (2) metal posts (with adjusting washers), and the saddle...

    if the bottom of the base is not flush to the archtop, then it needs to be sanded to fit correctly...that should be correct regardless of whether the "bridge" is leaning or not

    but most of the time, the saddles lean because of the posts...under string tension, the metal posts start to lean towards the headstock...it's physics

    flipping around the base..will alleviate the problem for awhile, since the posts are now aimed in the opposite direction, but eventually the 2 posts will start leaning toward the headstock side again..under string tension

    you should never reverse the saddle, unless you plan to recut all the saddle slots...and it won't make a difference anyway..unless the bottom of the saddle is badly cut...and they seldom are!

    cheers

  8. #7

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    As mentioned before, sometimes the holes for the posts aren't drilled perfectly vertical, and sometimes the holes have a little play in them which will make them lean also.
    If the posts aren't vertical but are firmly screwed in w/ no play but aren't drilled vertically, flipping around the base will likely solve the problem and it won't worsen over time.
    But if there's play they likely will lean again over time.

  9. #8

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    if the posts are drilled incorrectly vertical that's a defective bridge!!! and should be replaced... that's not so common!...its usually string tension that causes the posts to lean...and once they are pulled one way, then they can just as easily go the other way

    cheers

    ps- and if you have to jack up the saddle on the posts so high that it exacerbates the lean, (in order to get decent action) then you have a neck angle problem!!! a whole different territory

  10. #9

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    You'd be surprised how many I've seen drilled incorrectly , I have no idea how this happens as they use a drill press not a hand drill.
    But if those posts are firmly seated they likely won't lean too much especially if there's a healthy amount of post in the base.

  11. #10

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    i would still consider that a defective bridge...if the base was properly cut to match the arch, then reversing it, would just throw off that part of the equation!!...like putting the heels of your shoes under your toes!! hah

    perfection has no easy fixes!

    cheers

  12. #11

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    Of course it's defective!
    I'm talking about a perfectly contoured base but with post holes drilled off vertical.

  13. #12

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    yes...i get you.. but by reversing the base you are now throwing off the "perfect contour"!

    cheers

  14. #13

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    The contour shouldn't change much, if any. The base isn't generally that wide, and the area of the top where the bridge goes shouldn't change much in that small area. But depending on the carve, the bridge may not be perfectly perpendicular to the strings when it's perpendicular to the top. A compromise may be necessary, and reversing the base may be a better compromise. It varies with different guitars, but the fit of the base to the top shouldn't change much if at all by just reversing the base.

  15. #14

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    "course, 'cause it's defective!

  16. #15

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    Screwing down an additional set of thumbwheels really tight right at the wooden base can also help straightening the posts if the holes are not drilled perfectly vertical. It also make the whole assembly more solid if the bridge needs to sit higher for instance.
    It will obviously add a little bit more metal and weight to the whole bridge but when I did on a TOM equipped guitar, I could not hear any difference.

  17. #16

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    A second set of wheels against the base can make a difference, especially if the saddle is raised very high. They shouldn't be needed if everything is designed perfectly - neck angle, base thickness, etc - but that's not always the case. Sometimes the saddle has to be 1/2" or more above the base, and even if the base was drilled perfectly, the studs can bend under pressure, or can enlarge the holes in the base. Extra wheels can help with this, but a higher saddle seems to me to be a better remedy under most circumstances. A bigger saddle, however, can affect the tone much more than an extra set of wheels, for good or bad, so experiment is needed. Adding a set of wheels is cheap, easy, and easily reversible.

  18. #17

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    If you buy a bridge I would avoid Amazon. Been pretty disappointed with the options there. Some of the pro's on this thread may have better suggestions (though they make their own), but I've not found a better source for pre-made than these yet:

    Guitar Parts Factory - Wood Bridges



  19. #18

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    Guitar Parts Factory seems to have decent quality parts, and I buy from there fairly regularly. I don't recall buying bridges from there, but I certainly would consider doing so.

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by vinlander
    Screwing down an additional set of thumbwheels really tight right at the wooden base can also help straightening the posts if the holes are not drilled perfectly vertical. It also make the whole assembly more solid if the bridge needs to sit higher for instance.
    It will obviously add a little bit more metal and weight to the whole bridge but when I did on a TOM equipped guitar, I could not hear any difference.
    +1

    I have an ES-330 that came from the factory with two thumb wheels, and to correct the leaning posts on a 2000 ES-335 I did the same thing. I will say that I "perceive" more resonance on the 335, but like some mods (IMO) the owner / user / modder may be delusional about efficacy of modifications :-)

    This may be a whole new thread about mods / improvements for sound improvement being more heavily weighted into the mind's perception more than reality.