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I've heard good things about the UV 'dental' nut repairs, but haven't had the need of one yet personally. For folks suffering from the 'sitar' effect, you can buy yourself some time and salvage the gig/tour with a torn off corner of a dollar/euro/yen note shimming the slot....
PK
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09-10-2019 10:15 PM
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PK, i did shim my sitareffective slot with a piece of (ordinary) paper for a while, but for permanent cure i much prefer the UV glue solution which has proved most effective. Had i known earlier, i wouldn't have undergone the paper diversion and gone directly to UV glue.
Originally Posted by paulkogut
Last edited by JazzNote; 09-12-2019 at 06:47 AM.
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Just to add a bit more of my experience. I was interested to read in the directions that it's not necessary for all the glue line to be exposed to UV. Apparantly UV light starts a chemical reaction that continues after the light is off, and will propagate throughout until fully cured. I can't remember how long that is.
The one that we use holds stuff together exactly like epoxy. I know of a set of hinges glued to glass doors that have been in use for over 10 years. The shear force af a 1/4" thick glass door about 2 ft X 3ft is considerable at the hinge. They have a flat surface about 1 sq inch that glues to the glass surface.
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That's interesting. It never occurred to me that the cure would propagate with only a little UV at one edge. That increases the usefulness by a large factor. I must confess that my experience with it is limited, and I've never done any in-depth research. I'll have to do some of that in the future.
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To revive an old thread: Tonight I decided to tweak a nut, which had a couple of slots just a little higher than perfection. I deliberately cut a slot too deep, and used UV adhesive to mostly fill it, then recut the slot. The cured adhesive seemed a little harder than the bone, and when the slot was filed back to the proper depth, it was fine. I then cut another too low, just low enough to get a small buzz from the first fret. I applied a very thin coat of UV glue in the slot, because I wanted to see how the adhesive would hold as a very thin layer. After very minor filing, it held perfectly. I doubt I will ever use cyanoacrylate again for nut repairs. It's too messy and requires too much work. The UV adhesive can be dealt with and cleaned up very easily before it cures, so there is no mess as there is with cyanoacrylate and baking soda or bone dust or anything else. No need for the dust, and the area is as clean as you want before using the UV light. My only regret with the UV adhesive is that I didn't learn about it much earlier.
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This is what I do as well but I also mix a little graphite with the bone dust (or baking powder) to improve the tuning stability. Not much, 5-10% of the mix. Originally Posted by Danny W.
I've repaired several nut slots over the years with powder from a bone nut blank and cheap liquid cyanoacrylate (not gel). I just file the nut blank onto a piece of parchment paper until it looks like there's enough, put some masking tape alongside the nut, fold the parchment paper to make a chute, and tap the powder into the desired slot. Clean off excess powder with a brush or some tape, put a drop of the glue into the slot, let it harden overnight, file appropriately the next day. At least one of those repairs was still fine 20 years later--don't know about the rest.
Total cost of materials perhaps ten cents. No special tools needed.
Danny W.
I used UV glue for a finish repair. It was a cloudy, winter day. It didn't cure properly even after 2 days.Last edited by Tal_175; 05-10-2020 at 07:15 AM.
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UV resin requires UV light to cure. Sunlight works, but a UV light works better. You can get a UV flashlight for <$10. I usually turn the flashlight on, put it over the repair, and let it sit for 5 minutes or so. It's fully cured, hard, and I've had no problems with it. But it's not the only possibility, so use what works best for you.
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