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  1. #1

    Tru-oil best practices?

    Just bought a USACG roasted maple neck for my tele which is being installed and pleked this week. Trying to decide whether to true-oil the back, fingerboard or both.

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
    Never have used it not a fan of working on maple fingerboard. I am assuming that is what you are doing. For myself a straight rosewood fingerboard or ebony much better. From repair and fret work maple boards i hate, added pain.

    From what a gather though the tru oil maybe be the way to go on a guitar like this. All about the neck feel what is your experience with like finishes to play?
    specializing in repair and setup, does your guitar play like it should?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark View Post
    Never have used it not a fan of working on maple fingerboard. I am assuming that is what you are doing. For myself a straight rosewood fingerboard or ebony much better. From repair and fret work maple boards i hate, added pain.

    From what a gather though the tru oil maybe be the way to go on a guitar like this. All about the neck feel what is your experience with like finishes to play?
    yes, it's a maple fingerboard and i love the sound and feel of maple fingerboards. I like the feel of unfinished maple but I'm wondering if i should protect it with some coats of tru-oil.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
    Posts
    4,534
    It's not necessary. The feel should be very close to a finished neck and Warmoth don't even require a finish on roasted maple necks (which they do require on regular maple) because they consider roasted maple to be so stable. I'd suggest playing it as-is for a while to see how you like it first.
    My CD "Bare Handed" is available as a download at Bandcamp.com
    http://jimsoloway.bandcamp.com/album/bare-handed

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Soloway View Post
    It's not necessary. The feel should be very close to a finished neck and Warmoth don't even require a finish on roasted maple necks (which they do require on regular maple) because they consider roasted maple to be so stable. I'd suggest playing it as-is for a while to see how you like it first.
    It's interesting that you mention that. I talked to warmoth and USACG prior to having the neck made. It was a tough call since warmoth will install a nut but won't do a custom fret end taper and I find their fret end taper to be too long, causing strings to slide off the end of the fingerboard. I like the USACG fret end taper much better but they won't install the nut...At any rate, USACG recommended putting 4-5 coats of tru-oil on their roasted necks whereas warmoth did not...USACG didn't say it would violate their warranty but that's just what they recommend...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
    Posts
    4,534
    Quote Originally Posted by jzucker View Post
    It's interesting that you mention that. I talked to warmoth and USACG prior to having the neck made. It was a tough call since warmoth will install a nut but won't do a custom fret end taper and I find their fret end taper to be too long, causing strings to slide off the end of the fingerboard. I like the USACG fret end taper much better but they won't install the nut...At any rate, USACG recommended putting 4-5 coats of tru-oil on their roasted necks whereas warmoth did not...USACG didn't say it would violate their warranty but that's just what they recommend...
    If you do want to finish it with true oil, I'd suggest taking a look at the Music Man video on oil/wax finishes. We did a bunch of these (although on standard maple) and they worked out really well).

    My CD "Bare Handed" is available as a download at Bandcamp.com
    http://jimsoloway.bandcamp.com/album/bare-handed

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Hey Jack, my understanding too is that roasted maple doesn't need to be finished, but if you decide to go that route, I've had success with Tru-oil on (non-roasted) maple. It looks and feels great and is easy to apply.

    Here is the schedule I settled on (which is much less than what I would do on a body):
    * Seal coat of tru-oil —> rub with 000 synthetic steel wool
    * 3 coats —> 000
    * 2 coats —> 0000 —> 2 coats
    * Leave a week or so, 0000

    These are very thin coats that are rubbed on with a cotton pad, french polish style.

    Tru-oil best practices?-dsc_0110-jpg
    Tru-oil best practices?-dsc_0107-jpg
    Tru-oil best practices?-dsc_0109-jpg
    Jay

    'boobadoobadoobaooababop!'

  8. #8
    Looks great but not strictly necessary. I have roasted maple on all my teles now and have not finished them. Perfectly stable and feels incredible.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    San Francisco
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    1,568
    You can go no finish, to one to two coats of tru-oil, to multiple coats. If you leave it unfinished it will absorb anything (coffee, blood, wine, etc.) and leave it stained. If you go one or two coats (which is what I have done) it will still feel as though it is unfinished, but will have some protection against staining. If you go multiple coats you will eventually get a noticeable finish. Depends on what you want in the end.

    Also roasted will darken quite a bit with tru-oil. I like the look.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    Z6 7193067, 460823
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    There are huge threads on this over at TDPRI.

    I have had great success with TO on Warmoth roasted maple, spent about 2 weeks on each of the two necks I did.

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