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I want to put 10-52 D'dadarrio strings on my Godin Freeway Classic which is currently has 12-52s on it. Do you guys know if I'll need to buy a new nut?
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10-20-2009 02:34 PM
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did you widen the nut slots when you first went to .12's?
I'm gonna guess you'll probably be okay, but expect the neck to move a little, and you'll need to adjust the intonation. Give it a day or two before touching the neck so things pretty much settle in as to where they're going...
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Wise advice. Necks on some Chinese and Korean guitars are not known for stability. I have a time-worn test for checking string clearance and my Epi Emp/Rej (the substitution of the letter "j" for "g" is intentional)never had the same string clearance two days in a row if the temperature or humdity varied by 5%. The only guitar out of the thirty or so I've owned that had any noticable instability other than what one might experience twice a year during seasonal changes.
Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
Also, if you do have to make a truss rod adjustment, as B noted above, let a day or so go by before evaluating the results of the change. Guitars sort of slowly "creak" into a different neck/set configuration after an adjustment. (Not so bridge adjustments - instant gratification.)
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I took it to the store...I would imagine they did it but I'm not sure. I didn't know that you should leave it alone for a couple days though, thanks for the tip. It's actually Canadian-made, if that makes a difference. Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
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well, that godin isn't chinese, in fact, it's a well made canadian instrument. but jumping two gauges in strings (even if it is on the trebles only) is gonna move all but the thickest necks a little, that's why i reccomend the wait and the tweak.
or, and on truss rod adjustments (mr. beaumont steps up on his soapbox) a QUARTER TURN is a lot!
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Oh my, I didn't mean to imply that his guitar was Chinese, biting my tongue now. Really, I seriously apologize - that implication was unintentional. Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
Although we are generally in agreement regarding adjusting wooden instruments, I would add this to the truss rod adjustment procedure.
Before even STARTING to make adjustments, unthread and remove the adjustment nut completely (not the "string nut"). Using a soft brush or compressed air, remove all of the little wood chips from the truss rod cavity (the chips are always there on new guitars). Then lightly coat the truss rod threads with oil, just about anything is OK. Reinstall the nut, snug it up and only then start making adjustments.
Using this procedure will save time in the end and you'll get a good adjustment on the second try, probably.
(Old motorcycle mechanics, of which there seem to be a lot here, will recognize this as a variation on torquing cylinder heads by first cleaning/lubricating the studs.)
Cheers !Last edited by randyc; 10-20-2009 at 04:57 PM. Reason: chg "nut" to "adjustment nut"
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Okay, so I just put my new strings on and the action is too low. It's not terrible buzzing everywhere but I'm not getting nearly enough resistance on the strings when I play. I've been reading along in Dan Erlewine's book, so I guess now I have to make a radius gauge to set the action properly? Like, I can't just do it by feel?
This is my first attempt at setting up a guitar, I just wanted to confirm the right way to do it with a real live person...
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Courtesy suggested refraining from commenting on your string selection, it's ... a little on the skimpy side. Nonetheless, you should easily be able to make them work if you're not real heavy-handed on your attack. Originally Posted by Space Pickle
No, gauges and the like shouldn't be required. Time-honored technique is to adjust the bridge and check for buzzing over the entire neck. Be sure to re-tune your guitar after every adjustment ... lowering the bridge, for example, not only reduces the distance between string and fret but also slackens the tension, which might buzz, giving you a false indication of an incorrect adjustment.
I have a technique that I've employed for many years. If I can summon up some ambition, I'll post it sometime soon.
In the meantime, do a little trial and error, as above. Don't mess with the truss rod until you've satisfied yourself that you've reached the point of diminishing returns with the bridge adjustment.
It ain't rocket science, you'll get it .... we all did
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If you are reading the Erlewine book you are on the right path.
Not enough resistance on the strings? You find them too easy to bend or too low? If they are too easy to bend then your strings are too light, or you just need to get used to them. If they are too low that would mean more setup.
Here is the order I go in:
1) New Strings
2) Check the neck relief (bow).
3) Put the guitar down for a few hours/over night.
4) Check the neck relief and adjust it
5) Set the action (you dont need a radius gauge but a ruler that measures 64ths or 100ths is helpful. I bought mine a the hardware store for under 8$)
6) Make sure your strings are streched in properly so you can set the intonation.
The intonation is dependant on all other factors so you do it last. Action is dependant on the truss rod so you do the truss rod first.
I dont use radius gauges. Example for my jazzmaster: I set the action last night. Measured the bottom of the low E to the 17th fret 5/64ths. Measured the bottom of the A at the 17th.. 5/64th etc etc etc. E and B I do 4 64ths.
Everyone has their way of doing it (my way or the wrong way
. The measurements I provided are examples. Youtube has some good vids on guitar setup. Feel free to ask any questions. We are all here to help you.
Cheers
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not sure i know what you mean by "resistance?" Originally Posted by Space Pickle
you did just go down two gauges in strings--they're gonna feel like rubber bands for a bit, i bet.
if you literally "just put on new strings" the neck shouldn't have moved much yet, and unless you messed with the bridge while doing so, i doubt your action has changed much. If it's not buzzing and fretting out, give it a few days--you just might not like those skinny little strings.
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The lighter gauge strings will put less pressure/stress/tension/resistance on the neck and will immediately result in less neck relief (bow) and result in a lower action than the heavier strings had. Correcting the relief by adjusting the truss rod should put the action back where it was. Then adjust bridge saddles for intonation.
Last edited by cosmic gumbo; 10-21-2009 at 05:58 PM.
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Space pickle, are you confused yet ?
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Thanks pointers everybody. I think it's worked...going to wait another day to see what the deal is, but I think I've more or less got it.
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it'll budge a little, but that neck's gonna settle in over a day or two. very little will happen immediately. Originally Posted by cosmic gumbo
pickle, good to hear it's working out. what did you try?
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Surely, you will have to make some adjustements. The Freeway Classic (I have one) comes from the factory adjusted for .009 - .046. So it is a big step to climb to .012.
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Put on the new strings, did the action, did the intonation. It wasn't actually that big a job...I only had to adjust string length on the G. Of course, I didn't check it against a strobe tuner (just me regular tuner and ears) so it might be off. We'll see. I also didn't mess with the truss rod at all.
haha, this guitar has had a bunch of different string sizes. They had 9s on at the store, when I bought it I went up to 10s, then I wanted to try 12 flats, then down to 12 rounds and now I'm at 10-52s. Anyway, I figure it's high time I learned how to look after some of this stuff myself.The Freeway Classic (I have one) comes from the factory adjusted for .009 - .046. So it is a big step to climb to .012.
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Good job, SP !!
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Actually right now it's looking more like bad job. The guitar isn't in bad shape by any means but I've got a little fret buzz from about the fourth fret to the seventh or eighth, and I'm not liking the action - the string saddles are pretty high but it's still a bit too low for me. As I said before I didn't do the neck relief at all (apparently I can't follow basic instructions
) so I think that's the culprit. I also think the neck has slightly too much of an up-bow but that may just be an optical illusion/my inexperience with this type of work.
Sooo, my question is should I lower the action down to more or less what it was before (unplayable) and make a small adjustment to the truss rod or can I just de-tune the strings and do the rod?
Also I can post pictures if my word talking isn't getting it done.Last edited by Space Pickle; 10-24-2009 at 03:29 PM.
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Yes, it's time to make a slight adjustment to the truss road. Tune strings to pitch after adjusting the rod ... check the action a day or so later, as has been noted previously. Originally Posted by Space Pickle
Actually right now it's looking more like bad job. The guitar isn't in bad shape by any means but I've got a little fret buzz from about the fourth fret to the seventh or eighth, and I'm not liking the action - the string saddles are pretty high but it's still a bit too low for me. As I said before I didn't do the neck relief at all (apparently I can't follow basic instructions) so I think that's the culprit. I also think the neck has slightly too much of an up-bow but that may just be an optical illusion/my inexperience with this type of work.
Sooo, my question is should I lower the action down to more or less what it was before (unplayable) and make a small adjustment to the truss rod or can I just de-tune the strings and do the rod?
(And don't be hard on yourself, you're doing great so far and doubtless you'll do fine with the truss rod !)
After the neck has settled in from the truss rod adjustment, go through the bridge adjustment routine again. Usually (for me anyway) it takes about two tries to get things spot on.
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What randy said.
I would even chime that you dont have to slack the strings because you are loosening the truss rod. If it were a vintage guitar that had never been adjusted maybe then but this is a fairly recent guitar.
Do you have the right type of wrench to adjust the neck? If you do you are fine. I have seen more trussrods damaged by using the wrong tool than by over tightening.
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dh82c, sent you a PM, pls read it and let me know. Thx, randyc
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I got to it today and loosened the truss. I'm still getting fret buzz after roughly a quarter-turn of the rod. On the other hand, the action is more or less where I like it now. So should I just give it 24 hours before I continue to tweak?
And just to clarify, if I have low action/fret buzz the proper procedure is to loosen, right?
And thanks for the helpful video link, advice and general words of encouragement everybody.
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SP: you're doing everything right. FWIW, your post stimulated me into writing about this subject, it's something we all have to learn so I thought that I'd share my experience.
Turned out to be more of a chore than I thought, so it's posted in five parts If you get a chance, might skim through it and let me know if it's helpful.
Cheers
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