Gibson ES-175 - Strap Button Poll

**AlohaJoe** · 03-17-2018, 08:06 PM

I just checked and I have two guitars at #5 and three at #3. Either works for me. #1 or #2 are too forward-tilty to me, and given the choice, I'd prefer not to put holes in a heel cap or have it become a pressure point when the guitar rests on its back. My ES125 came with one at #2 and with the 3" deep body it does want to roll forward a bit. Annoying, but not an issue when sitting.

**stoneground** · 03-18-2018, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by JPG

Thanks for your post.

Because of it I was able to realistically test position #5 (although it would be easy to try #4, too).

I could see me going with this solution alone - but I'm still a bit afraid that this could pose a risk to the neck/body area. But I read you've been doing it for 25 years!

Thanks again, Sir.

Attachment 51677

I'm glad you found the post helpful. I must say that I have hardly thought about it since I came up with this method just after I bought the guitar 23 years ago, not 25 as I said earlier. I've never felt the need to adjust the strap position much though as you point out you could experiment a bit with it. The shoelace hasn't marked the guitar at all in all that time and I think I can now declare myself free of Strap Button Acquisition Syndrome! I think there is probably more risk to the neck body area from drilling for strap buttons or more likely, from straps coming off the button. Anyway, I'm attaching a photo of my shoelace arrangement for comparison. Notice that I have gone with the round lace single loop rather than the flat lace double loop.

**sgosnell** · 03-18-2018, 10:47 AM

I use exactly that on my Wu. The fretboard extension over the neck just allows the leather bootlace to get under it most of the way back, even further than on the one pictured, and that works for me. Since the guitar has an endpin jack, my usual Schaller buttons won't work, so I settled on this method.

**JPG** · 03-18-2018, 11:51 AM

Originally Posted by stoneground

INotice that I have gone with the round lace single loop rather than the flat lace double loop.

lol, looks super cool!

the idea of putting a strap button in an offset position like #5 makes me nervous - although when comparing that position with my Epiphone 175 with a #1, the #5 feels much better - so I'll keep with your solution at least for a while.

(just noticed that the case that came with the CME 175 has already a space left for an eventual strap button at #1 or #2)

**JPG** · 03-18-2018, 11:53 AM

Originally Posted by sgosnell

I use exactly that on my Wu. The fretboard extension over the neck just allows the leather bootlace to get under it most of the way back, even further than on the one pictured, and that works for me. Since the guitar has an endpin jack, my usual Schaller buttons won't work, so I settled on this method.

No pictures of it? Would be great to see your solution too!

**sgosnell** · 03-18-2018, 04:08 PM

I've posted pictures in another thread, but I guess another won't hurt. It's pretty much identical to Stoneground's.

**JPG** · 03-18-2018, 04:26 PM

Originally Posted by sgosnell

I've posted pictures in another thread, but I guess another won't hurt. It's pretty much identical to Stoneground's.

Thanks, looks cool too!
Right now I'm enjoying being able to play my 175 standing thanks to this

**stoneground** · 03-19-2018, 07:31 AM

Originally Posted by sgosnell

I've posted pictures in another thread, but I guess another won't hurt. It's pretty much identical to Stoneground's.

Very similar indeed but I have to admit that your knots look rather more elegant than mine. Perhaps we should start another thread on this to discuss different types of shoelace, tying techniques and even the potential effects on guitar tone!
I suppose improvised solutions for strap attachments have a good precedent with Pat Metheny's use of a toothbrush at the other end of the guitar. Pat is possibly my favourite guitarist but I feel he could have shown a little more respect for his instrument in this case. A decent shoelace would have provided a more aesthetically pleasing result at very little expense.

**guido5** · 03-19-2018, 08:14 AM

My Eastman AR371ce uses position 1 and it works like a charm. No flop. No access issues.

**JPG** · 03-19-2018, 08:50 AM

Originally Posted by stoneground

Very similar indeed but I have to admit that your knots look rather more elegant than mine. Perhaps we should start another thread on this to discuss different types of shoelace, tying techniques and even the potential effects on guitar tone!

I noticed that too. Mine look clumsy at best in comparison!
And it looks like a leather shoelace, huh? Nice!

**JPG** · 03-19-2018, 08:51 AM

So far #2 is the clear winner.

**oldane** · 03-19-2018, 09:50 AM

I like position no. 3 best - provided the screw of the strap button can get a hold in the neck block and not just in the thin side of the guitar. I have requested it on the guitars I have had custom made and have spec'd that the neck block should be wide enough to accomodate it.

**sgosnell** · 03-19-2018, 10:59 AM

It's an old leather bootlace that I found stuck in a drawer. I still have half of it in reserve if I need another. I found that another knot against the heel helps keep the whole thing from shifting around. Others may prefer having it move. It's just a simple overhand knot, with a square knot on the other side, nothing elegant or complicated. Maybe the guitar would sound better with surgeon's knots or maybe some sort of fisherman's or boy scout knot, but that would take a lot of work and practice, and I prefer practicing playing guitar. God knows I need a lot more of that.

**tonyp145** · 03-19-2018, 06:54 PM

So this is funny, I voted for #2, which is the most popular in the poll here. But I bought an L-7C a few weeks ago and it has the strap in position #5, which I thought was weird. But Dan Erlewine says that's the most popular position per his customers. Honestly I don't care for it, but I'm loathe to drill another hole in this old beauty so I guess I'll live with it for now at least. It's been bugging me though, so I'm really glad the OP posted that link. At least I know it's not a poor choice, just a personal preference.

**JPG** · 03-19-2018, 10:00 PM

Originally Posted by sgosnell

It's an old leather bootlace that I found stuck in a drawer. I still have half of it in reserve if I need another. I found that another knot against the heel helps keep the whole thing from shifting around. Others may prefer having it move. It's just a simple overhand knot, with a square knot on the other side, nothing elegant or complicated. Maybe the guitar would sound better with surgeon's knots or maybe some sort of fisherman's or boy scout knot, but that would take a lot of work and practice, and I prefer practicing playing guitar. God knows I need a lot more of that.

Just tried with leather, myself. Is a whole new dimension ... chords hold on forever and you can really feel them climbing to your collarbone

**Randooley** · 03-20-2018, 01:39 PM

Seriously considering trying that under the fretboard idea.I was tying to the headstock.but hated the feel.

**JPG** · 03-20-2018, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by Randooley

Seriously considering trying that under the fretboard idea.I was tying to the headstock.but hated the feel.

Seriously considering not drilling a hole in the guitar after all. After a couple of days with it, feels great, does the job.

The beauty of it is that you can try it out easily

Only thing is that you put the guitar on case back with it... but at the same time one of those key-chain hooks (sorry don't know the proper English word for it) would solve that easily, too. You'd only always leave the lace on the guitar and then hook the strap to it.

**sgosnell** · 03-20-2018, 07:04 PM

Mine fits in the case with the strap. Most of the strap is on top of the guitar, on the bass side, but it doesn't touch the top when it's closed, because the fretboard is higher. Some of the strap goes behind the heel and in the cutaway area. It does depend on the strap, but mine works well enough. Not all archtops allow a string under the end of the fretboard because of the design. I can use it on a couple of mine, but not most.

**skiboyny** · 03-21-2018, 06:50 PM

I have a real "thing" about strap pins. I won't question #2, but I won't buy a guitar that has them in any of the other spots. If the price is way too good to pass on I'd consider #4 but it would have to be a guitar that I really wanted at a great price. It's a "thing".

**Tal_175** · 03-30-2018, 05:07 PM

I find that all the positions have their drawbacks. 2 and 4 are the best for me. But 4 gets in the way a little bit when reaching high frets and 2 causes guitar to partly rest on the strap button in the case as well as causing slight tendency to tilt forward. So clearly 2 is the winner

**Greentone** · 08-16-2018, 12:24 PM

The vintage ES-175 guitars, of course, came with no strap pin--other than the end pin. Presumably, you were supposed to use either the headstock or the arrangement of wrapping a string around the heel/fingerboard extension, if you wanted to play standing up.

I used a ES-175 as my #1 guitar for over 30 years. Never added a strap button. Playing in small jazz combos, I invariably played seated--after the fashion of Jim Hall and Herb Ellis (the reasons I played a 175).

If I had a gig that necessitated standing, I played either my ES-175 or my Gretsch CA-6120. They worked well enough for jazz, but I preferred the 175.

**GNAPPI** · 08-16-2018, 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by Woody Sound

This poll could also apply to the new ES-275. I still can't decide where to put it on mine. I had one at position 4 on my Johnny Smith and it worked quite well.

And the Tal Farlow

**vinlander** · 08-18-2018, 06:21 AM

Like for my Tal, my '59 125 came with one in #4 and it works well

**jzucker** · 08-18-2018, 07:39 AM

1 or 2. The other positions will get in the way when wearing a strap and playing on the higher frets.

**Stringswinger** · 08-18-2018, 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by jzucker

1 or 2. The other positions will get in the way when wearing a strap and playing on the higher frets.

Exactly. 2 is my preference (a new heel cap will remove all evidence of the modification if need be, but with a small heel, 1 is probably a more "sturdy" choice). If a guitar comes to me with a pin already in position 1, that is fine and I leave it alone. Any of the other positions and I move it. I like unhindered access to the upper frets.