-
Has anyone installed a vibrato unit on their 275? I have a cherry 275 with the standard trapeze tailpiece. I want to install a Bigsby, or variant, but I don't want to modify the guitar, and that includes adding extra screw holes. The Bigsby B30 looks like it will work, as it has 3 screw points, like the trapeze. The B3 has 4 screw holes. Even though it doesn't have the tension bar of a B7/B70, the bridge sits higher than on an ES-335, so the string angle should keep the strings from popping, and also stay in tune after use.
Do the screw holes line up? I would modify the strap post hole on the Bigsby bracket, if necessary.
Did you use longer screws?
Does it stay in tune - assuming your nut and saddle slots are right ?
Any pics?
Thanks,
Bob
-
01-10-2018 10:22 AM
-
It's unlikely that you'll find anything that lines up with the existent screw holes.
You'll probably want a B3. Here are some possibilities.
1. The B3 end plate will cover the current tailpiece screws holes. If so, simply fill the current holes with wood putty. After the putty has hardened, install the Bigsby. Make sure you put felt buttons under the contact points where the Bigsby touches the top. That way you can later remove the Bigsby and the top may be unscathed.
2. If the B3 doesn't cover the holes, do the same process. You can color the wood putty cherry, and it will have a barely visible appearance.
3. The current tailpiece end plate may not cover the Bigsby holes. That will leave some small cosmetic flaws when you fill the Bigsby holes with cherry tinted putty upon the Bigsby removal, if you ever remove the Bigsby.
This figure below may help you.
-
Oh, here's another issue. There are two holes on the top of the ES-275. They will show.
You could "hide" those holes a couple of ways.
1. Use the traditional Gibson approach. This is easy and reversible.
2. Make the holes even bigger, but do this at your own peril.
-
There are no tailpiece holes in the 275 top, the trapeze is only anchored by the 2 small, and 1 large strap post screw at the butt end.
I would prefer to use the B3, since it's sand cast, but I don't want any additional screw holes in the butt end. The B30 is a 3 screw bracket mount. I can see the template they provide for the B30, but you can't determine the hole locations based on the end of the guitar, because the Bigsby bracket sits slightly about the top edge. I was hoping someone had tried a B30.
-
Oops. You are right about the TP holes on the top.
-
I had one installed on a Benedetto Bambino B3 version. Worked great,especially when I used a Wayne Compton aluminum bridge
A Powerful Custom Way To Improve Your Guitar… Quickly and Easily! | Compton Compensated Custom Bridges
-
I'm surprised someone with. a CAD terminal never offered a universal (or 3)Bigsby plate. When I remove a bigsby o make a tp template and drill holes in a trapeze to match.
As far as your issue goes a B6 does not require holes on the top.
-
Oops. You are right about the TP holes on the top.
-
The B6/B60 would be too large for the 275. The B30 looks like the right fit. I just want to know if the screw holes would line up. There's a B30 for sale on Reverb, but the seller had to elongate the strap hole to fit his ES-446. I may have to ask Bigsby customer service.
-
What about the B7 people tack onto Les Pauls (which has an arched top)?
-
A B7/B70 has the extra tension rod and requires two large screw holes in the top to anchor it. The 275 is a relatively new model, so owners have not gotten around to changing them, but there has to be one out there with a B30. I've seen a pic of a custom shop 275 with a B7, but that was from the factory.
-
Have you confirmed that you really need a tension bar Bigsby? The downsides to one are not insignificant.
Anyway,...
The significant issue you may experience is that even after you sort out a perfectly cut nut and VERY LITTLE (VERY VERY VERY LITTLE) string wound around the posts, the ABR-1 can bind the strings a bit, especially if you use a Bigs with a tension bar.
The solution to binding in the bridge works superbly, but involves some work on the ABR-1 to allow it to rock slightly. There were actual production versions of a rocking ABR-1 of which I was completely ignorant (no surprise there) until someone pointed it out last year, but I have never seen one.
Anyway, if you end up installing this and have tuning problems despite sorting out the nut and having STAGGERINGLY LITTLE (no I mean far less than half of what you think is staggeringly little) string length wound around the posts, all is not lost. The mod to the bridge is a little involved but works far better than a roller bridge.
In my opinion.
Chris
-
Chris, the body length of the 275 is shorter than the 335, which should give a little extra string length.
Originally Posted by ptchristopher3
I'm a fan of the Vibramate Spoiler. That may give you an extra 1/16" but don't quote me on that.
VIBRAMATE(R) - Innovative Music Products - Made in USA
I would avoid a tension bar. I don't see any real benefit, and it mandates a rocker bridge. The B3 or B30 has enough of a gentle break angle that a roller bridge should do well as an option.
-
A B7/B70 would be my preference, but can't be reversed due to the two top holes required. I can see getting tired of the Bigsby, and returning to the fixed tailpiece. I only do reversible mods on my guitars.
-
i'd think a b-60 is the way to go...the short b3/b30 is going to have too long a distance between it and the bridge...you may have tension, string slipping, and overtone problems
b7 with tension roller is used when there is a fixed (inbody) bridge..on moveable bridge archtop guitars the b6 or b60 is the one to use
since the 275 has a body Thickness : 2.125" +/-.015, the b60 would be the one..as the b6 mounting flange might be to long
incidentally the single digit bigsbys like the b7 or b6 or b3..(non zero) are original vintage style usa sandcast made..handmade!
the b30,b60 & b70 are asian made and die cut
cheers
-
Some rocking ABR-1s at the top of the pic.
-
The distance from the back of the trapeze to the front is 5 7/8".
The distance from the back of the bridge to the front of the trapeze is 2 3/4" .
The B60 length is about 7". It's hard to tell exactly because the template doesn't estimate how much it hangs over because of the bracket.
The B30 is about 5 7/8".
The string bar looks about an inch or so back from the total length.
Given those specs, the strings would attach to the bar in about the same location as the trapeze. I thinks that's better than the B30.
Now if I only knew if the screw holes would line up.
-
Have you plotted the eventual break angle? This is somewhat important in my opinion.
-
yes agree, its all about the break angle!! thats why i think the short b30 will give it too shallow a break angle over the saddle...no good
b60 will give a better break and be closer to the angle that the original tailpiece is at
cheers
-
B-11 is my fave for thinline hollowbodies - made in USA, short mounting flange, aerodynamic design makes you play faster. :^) Originally Posted by neatomic
-
Interesting, I didn't think the 275 was substantially thinner than my ES-195 which had a B6 and there was still plenty of room on the rim. Nowadays Gibson isn't very forthcoming on body dimensions of their archtops so I had no idea. Originally Posted by bob77362
-
I'm not a fan of the B11 open hole look. It's too bad the B6 doesn't have an option for the shorter flange. I'd prefer the USA vs Korean made licensed B60.
-
What will the break angle over the bridge be with the B60?
This is rather important for a few reasons.
In my opinion.
EDIT: Not to sound like too much of a jerk, but do you know how to figure out the eventual break angle?Last edited by ptchristopher3; 01-11-2018 at 10:17 AM.
-
I agree it's important, but it's also hard to calculate given the lack of details on the Bigsby site. The only measurement I can take is the height of the strings off the top. What makes it more difficult is the top is arched and falls away towards the butt end. I sent a note to Bigsby today. Let's see if they respond. I may also post on TGP, they are aware of the CME sale, and have commented on the 275.
-
The B3 and B6 have the strings coming over the top of the string bar at about 3/4” above the top. I do not have a B30 or B60 here but as I understand it the string bar position is the same as for the B3 and B6.
I very much suggest locating the string bar positions for the B60 and a B30 unit, then projecting 3/4” above the arched and variable top at location of the string bar for each unit. This will allow you to measure the break angle with a B60 and a B30.
I very much suggest checking both.
You may have already mentioned, but what is the distance from the center of the bridge to the rim of that guitar where the tailpiece will attach?
Reply With Quote
Has anyone played or had a Supro Amulet ?
Today, 04:44 AM in Guitar, Amps & Gizmos