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And wonderfully self-aware and capable of self-reflection, which redeems any excesses! I was glad to learn about the repair and variations on how it's done. I'm assessing my new ES175. I do find I slide the high-e string off to the side sometimes where I don't on other guitars. Might need to look into this thing.
Originally Posted by vinnyv1k
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12-26-2017 04:24 PM
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One thing to check if one string is too close to the edge of the fretboard is the bridge. It can be off-center, and cause all the strings to slide to one side. It usually happens at string change, but it's possible for the bridge to get knocked off to the side with the strings in place. Not common, but possible. This will also usually put the strings off the centers of the pickup polepieces. This is not always the cause, but it's very quick and easy to check, and to correct if necessary.
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Not on these new ones. The bridge is pinned through the body. Bridge cannot be moved.
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Well, it can be, but it takes some work.
I had forgotten about the pinned bridges, because one of the first things I did was to unpin mine. I had to move it to get the intonation right, and then I just removed the TOM and replaced it with an ebony bridge.
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Yes just cut the studs in half. The base will still most likely cover the holes.
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The posts are threaded into the base. Just unscrew them until they're no longer sticking out of the bottom of the base. No need to cut them.
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They are very long on mine. Then they would be coming out of the top of the tun-o-matic. Originally Posted by sgosnell
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Saw them off if it bothers you. It doesn't bother me. But switching to a new ebony bridge solves all the problems.
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Didn't you post something about the bridge base on yours being reversed? Might that cause a little displacement of the strings? Originally Posted by vinnyv1k
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Yes on one the bridge was off center. I flipped the base and that made it perfectly center to the fretboard.
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I'm resurrecting this thread as I too have just gotten my new ES 175 from CME (actually if you believe the COA it is an ES 75..whoever was tasked with writing out the COA forgot the 1 ..believe it or not ..I won't mention the chicken scratch..oh I just did ). Anyway..
My High E is positioned right above the top edge of the downward bevel of the fret, press it down and it is at the edge of the bevel. As you go down towards the bridge it transitions more away from the edge. Everything else is fine about the guitar, the binding is a little funky at spots, even a few dings would have been fine but this issue has me bummed. The spacing is otherwise even so re-slotting one slot is not an option.
Are these bevels something new? Do you other new 175 owners have these bevels? I don't recall my other Gibsons having them, at least not this extreme..like a straight, non rounded 45 degree angle..ski slope like. I assume the PLEK made this perfect straight bevel. I'll look at some of my other Gibsons tonite. The bevel really is taking some meat off the fret it seems. If it is a nut problem only no biggie but if the frets are a factor too that is another matter. There is a three day return period, my time is limited to fool around with it, I'm busy during the day. I'm on the fence.
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Tricky decision. Well maybe easy decision and unfortunate situation.
I think some others who treasure their new 175’s might offer suggestions that can help.
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This seems to be a real problem. I bought 4 of these 175’s. 3 were perfect and 1 had the excessive bevel but not bad enough to send back.
If you really love this one send it back and have the CME guys fix it or they will gladly replace it.
For me the 3 perfect ones were 2016’s and the one with excessive bevel was a 2017.
CME is very aware of this. Also on the 335’s. Very sorry for you but CME will make it right for you including a full refund if you so desire. Still it sucks. Being disappointed by Gibson ......I know your pain.
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I had the same experience with one of these recent CME 175's. I have decided to send it back. On mine if you look at the bevel, they also rolled the binding in such a way that it looks like you couldn't refret it over the binding and recover some real estate on the fingerboard. Somebody must have programmed their Plek machine wrong for this batch (just a hunch). I may look at the VOS 175 reissues as they a wider fret board to begin with. I feel your pain and am working to send mine back. Originally Posted by 73Fender
Didn't mean to hijack your thread Max405 but wanted to share some blues with a fellow jazzguitar.be member.
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This is the more significant problem, the rolled binding. And indeed a real estate problem unless you are willing to accept narrower string spacing. EVEN after fret work, nut work, and even fingerboard work before a re-fret - or partial refret. Originally Posted by rhoadsscholar
Even famous people can not make material re-appear after someone has scraped it away.
But of course many players are very willing to accept this situation. Reduce string spacing is completely unproblematic to many.
”Rolled” FB edges or binding (on a bound FB) is a sort of relic’ing gone wrong.
Again, it does not bother some.
******
deleted my walk though of the flow of events that would have a supplier described as aware send this guitar to 73Fender
******
Love Gibson designs, like CME just fine.
Repeat as necessary,...
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^^ No hijack at all, I welcome all input. Rhodes, I was just playing it through one of KBP's Deluxe Reverb builds with some reverb and just a touch of subtle OD and it is a glorious tone for sure. Makes this situation that much more sadder but I think I will return it. My gut tells me to. I even waited the 24hrs to open the box, oh well, it wasn't meant to be. If I had a good guitar tech near by to get some good advice I would. My days are packed with work right now.
I looked at a few other Gibsons just now. My 2013 R7 has binding material (nibs) coming up further on the frets, same with my 2013 330. Hard to judge the angle with my old tired eyes ha ha. Maybe I'm just seeing more metal I don't know.
I was also just thinking maybe a 59 model. So the fret board is wider? It also has a wooden bridge. I put the digital calipers on the nut area of the 175, right at 1.7" exactly like my Heritage 525 I had out at the same time.
Thanks for the advice.
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Mine is really not that bad. The frets are beveled and the nibs are reduced. My fretboard was not reduced in any way. But the nut work I did and sliding the strings over toward the bass side helped.
But honestly, you shouldn’t have to struggle with a less than perfect, brand new guitar. I don’t care how much of a discount you got in it.
They knowingly dumped these guitars on the general public. Not cool.
Cant win em all..
JD
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2 of my CME Gibsons are 2016's, 2 of them are 2017's. The frets/nuts/necks/bindings are fine on all 4. Originally Posted by vinnyv1k
I think it is luck of the draw. I got pretty lucky. Sorry to hear about all of those whose luck was not so good. CME will make it right.
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I bought a 2017 from CME a few months ago and had the same issue - occasionally the E string would slide off the neck while chording up and down the neck. I borrowed my luthier buddy's nut slot ruler and found that the high E slot was cut just a touch too close to the edge - not even a 12 gauge string's width. Therefore, I can't say for sure it isn't a combination of the bevel and the nut slot. I'll eventually get a new nut, but for now I did the super glue and baking soda trick. I moved it one string's width closer to the B string. It has worked great through a couple of string changes and I don't notice the slight width difference at all. I loved the feel and sound of the guitar too much right out of the box to send it back. I immediately bonded with the guitar, so I accepted the flaw.
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Ah, those pinned bridges. Gibson did this when they started factory stringing with .10 gauge sets to encourage the "I'm a cowboy. ..on a steel horse I'll ride" folks to try a 175. Didn't want the bridge shifting under a power chord.
PITA, pinned bridges, IMO.
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A question about the pinned bridges on the 175s. This is the first time I'm dealing with it. It hasn't bothered me so far because they got the bridge placement right on my guitar - the intonation is good, the saddles are adjusted within an acceptable range, I can get the action right, etc. But what if I want to try a rosewood bridge? Is there a way to remove the pins to have a traditional floating bridge configuration? Last string change, I just lifted the bridge a bit to see that it was pinned, but haven't pulled it off to see exactly how it's constructed and installed. Thanks.
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Here's a few points.
1. AFAIK, the Memphis Gibsons are not PLEK'd.
2. The bridge base pins will easily come out. You can put another base on for very little money, too. It's not a problem.
3. I don't know how I lucked out, but I have had none of the reported CME problems. Knock on wood! The detailing on two of them was not the best, but it cost me $30 to correct the cosmetics and bring them up to Nashville quality.
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The pins are actually just extended bridge posts - extending below the bottom surface of the base into the body. Originally Posted by SkipBurz
For a quick test of a new bridge, you could simply unscrew the posts to raise them above the lower surface of the base. Do not withdraw them too far, or things get wobbly with some slight chance of damage to the threads inside the base.
For actual playing you would likely want shorter posts. These are available.
EDIT: Typically shorter posts are just cut down from the stock length. You can also just head to your favorite hardware store and buy machine screws and cut them down. Bring a thumb wheel to ensure you get the right screws.
Most often USA bridges will be 6-32, while metric will be 4mm (maybe M4 x .7????? but I believe there are two 4mm thread pitches available)
I have never found a difference in the post metal to matter at all. Brass is heavier and softer than steel - which seems immaterial in this case.
If you do cut down screws, put the nice looking end on top.
Or buy official posts from the usual suppliers - you will often still need to cut them down.
ChrisLast edited by ptchristopher3; 02-15-2018 at 10:54 AM.
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You know, it would actually be pretty cool to have an extra bridge set for this guitar.
I feel, it would RADICALLY alter the sound of it. And not in a bad way. As this guitar currently is constructed, it is a unique sounding Crisp tone and Sustain machine. I believe a rosewood bridge and new base would change the guitars tone a lot. Not worse, not better. Just differently.
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Have our man Matt build you one. Originally Posted by Max405
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