The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
Reply to Thread Bookmark Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Posts 26 to 39 of 39
  1. #26

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by Max405
    This how it was explained to me.
    The e and b strings are made from a gold material, most likely a steel/brass mixture. Their oscillation pattern is wider than regular stainless or nickel steel so they tend to buzz against the frets on those strings, particularly when really low action is used. I like low action, so raising the action is not an option.

    Joe D
    Joe, i see what you mean. I always thought that my b string was buzzing a little because of fret wear (i also play super low action, 1.2mm at 12th fret, the neck as straight as possible), but your explanation makes sense. Did they tell you why they are using this steel/brass mixture?

    The buzz gave me a lot of headaches during the editing process of some recordings, but recently i realized that there are classic albums with much nastier audible buzzes. Check out Grant Greens I Want To Hold Your Hand, his G is frequently buzzing. I did not really care when i discovered the album in the eighties and i'm sure not many listeners are aware of it. (Example at 1:52, the whole album is full of these buzzes).


    I myself will probably try vinnie's recipe, changing the e and b to Elixir or d'Addarios.
    Last edited by JazzNote; 06-09-2017 at 05:28 AM.

  2.  

    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #27

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote

    I myself will probably try vinnie's recipe, changing the e and b to Elixir or d'Addarios.

    So, at $24.00+ per set for JS 113's, with 2 strings that you swap out, along with the 3rd & 4th which ( for me anyway ) are too thin and you're at $12.00 each for 2 strings and still have 4 strings to buy. ( ?? )

    Yes, I like their sound and yes they last ok, and yes I have $24.00 to spend on guitar strings, if I must, but I can't use what they sell. And, I can't beat their system of buying individual strings, which I've also tried.

    Next time around will be Pyramids Golds in 13/52 flats. The sound is close, and I have to hope the longevity is also close but I seem to remember it isn't.

    Oh well......

  4. #28

    User Info Menu

    The Elixirs are the best. D'A's corrode. The Elixirs are $1.50 each at Strings and Beyond but when they have there 20% off sales you can get TI's for $20.00 and Elixirs for $1.20 each. D'A's are $1.00 each but trust me they are not as good both sound wise and longevity. The TI E&B just doesn't sound good to me amplified.

  5. #29

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis D
    So, at $24.00+ per set for JS 113's, with 2 strings that you swap out, along with the 3rd & 4th which ( for me anyway ) are too thin and you're at $12.00 each for 2 strings and still have 4 strings to buy. ( ?? )

    Yes, I like their sound and yes they last ok, and yes I have $24.00 to spend on guitar strings, if I must, but I can't use what they sell. And, I can't beat their system of buying individual strings, which I've also tried.

    Next time around will be Pyramids Golds in 13/52 flats. The sound is close, and I have to hope the longevity is also close but I seem to remember it isn't.

    Oh well......
    Dennis D, fortunately the TI's got cheaper over here. At the moment i pay around 13 Euros for a set of swings. They used to be around 22 Euros, so this feels kind of good .....

  6. #30

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by JazzNote
    Dennis D, fortunately the TI's got cheaper over here. At the moment i pay around 13 Euros for a set of swings. They used to be around 22 Euros, so this feels kind of good .....


    Good for you !!


    I'd sure love to be able to make them work. But I'm also not holding out for them to change. I know all about Austrians, and how reluctantly they change their opinions. (( My Dad married and lived with one for 60 years ! ))

    Prosit.

  7. #31

    User Info Menu

    TI's lower tension is only better, if that's what you seek. I have a .022 roundwound 3rd on my Strat right now because I "made the switch" years ago and just can't get on with a plain 3rd. It still affords a a degree of bendability, though lacks a bit of body, and I would be loathe go below a .024 on an Archtop.

  8. #32

    User Info Menu

    Pyramids interest me. I'm also planning on putting js110 set from 14s till 46 for the first 5 strings, or the top 5 from js111. 53 from js113.
    Last edited by Epistrophy; 03-11-2021 at 12:10 AM.

  9. #33

    User Info Menu

    up till now .....
    Ive only been playing 24.75 scale guitars with TI flat 13s which i find good for jazz
    ——-
    I now have a 25.5 scale solid body
    and I need to bend up a tone
    So i’m experimenting with a TI flat 12 set
    but with a 20 plain 3rd

    nope it hasn’t helped !
    (and I don’t like the plain 3rd much)

    next I might try going down to
    11p 15p 20w for the top strings
    and see how that goes ....

    ps
    I’m also looking into 24.75 scale
    conversion necks ....!
    I will persevere for a while as is for the
    moment to

  10. #34

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by pingu
    up till now .....
    Ive only been playing 24.75 scale guitars with TI flat 13s which i find good for jazz
    ——-
    I now have a 25.5 scale solid body
    and I need to bend up a tone
    So i’m experimenting with a TI flat 12 set
    but with a 20 plain 3rd

    nope it hasn’t helped !
    (and I don’t like the plain 3rd much)

    next I might try going down to
    11p 15p 20w for the top strings
    and see how that goes ....

    ps
    I’m also looking into 24.75 scale
    conversion necks ....!
    I will persevere for a while as is for the
    moment to
    I'm wondering what would be the perfect gauge for 25 scale. 12s or 13s. For now I'm happy with 12s.

  11. #35

    User Info Menu

    I like Pyramids because they are in regular gauge and I like the rough feel of them, to have more of a grip like roundwounds have. Thomastiks are too smooth for me, but Pyramid and Thomastik flats are the best ones.

  12. #36

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by vinnyv1k
    Pyramid stopped making hex core flats a while back. Just round core now. They have a rougher feel and less sustain than TI's.
    TI's are simply the best flatwound on the market. They also last longer than Pyramids. I still like Pyramid better than Chromes though. I prefer nickel over stainless.
    Just my opinion so no right or wrong here but...

    I used to think to too but I think it depends on what sound you're going for. The TIs are darker than the chromes out of the box and deaden into their "normal" tone very quickly. Usually after about 12 hours of playing. The chromes take much longer to deaden (possibly due to SS construction). Once the TIs deaden, they capture that muted, thunky, '60s jazz guitar sound. The chromes can get there but it may take a couple months. The TIs seem to hold their intonation longer than the chromes.

    However, the 175 I got had a new set of chromes on it and I find that I really like the added brightness and clarity and more modern tonality they provide. Unfortunately, chromes have now gone up in price to $19.99 compared to $24.99 for TIs so there is no longer a huge price advantage of going with d'addario. They both have fought issues with QC where G Strings sometimes are not properly ground.

    I'm not so sure there's a clear winner. I have gone back to the chromes for the time being. To me they are more versatile and I can turn the tone control down a bit to simulate the muted '60s tone but there's no equivalent to make the TIs sound as bright and clear as the chromes do...

  13. #37

    User Info Menu

    The finishing of the strings before the so-called ball ends is in favor of Thomasic.

  14. #38

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by kris
    The finishing of the strings before the so-called ball ends is in favor of Thomasic.
    i agree it looks good but I've yet to find a tangible benefit to that and there are some disadvantages to the wrap. When I had my seventy seven hawk, the red thread wrap caused the ball end of the string to get hung up in the tailpiece which didn't have enough clearance for the thread!

  15. #39

    User Info Menu

    Quote Originally Posted by jzucker
    the red thread wrap caused the ball end of the string to get hung up in the tailpiece which didn't have enough clearance for the thread!
    That may be the case on my Eastman 810 as well. I can't tell for sure if it's the ball itself wedged between the sides of the metal insert, the string in the hole throught the front of the insert, or both. But the lowest 2 strings are definitely a slightly tight fit - they require a tug to seat fully.