Best Guitar Polish for Removing Smudges/Grime?

**jzucker** · 08-28-2015, 09:43 AM

Originally Posted by vinnyv1k

I also found that I was able to cure sticky nitro necks with a couple coats of 100% Brazilian Carnauba. Some Carnauba is impossible to remove once it dries but not the S100 stuff. It is very easy to remove and is 100% Carnauba and nothing else. Comes in a white and blue tub. Works great on my Harley Davidson too. :-)

FYI, no polish is 100% carnauba. Carnauba is as hard as a rock when solid. It has to have solvents in it to keep it spreadable. Perhaps after the solvents dry you're left with a thin layer of carnauba

**jzucker** · 08-28-2015, 09:47 AM

Originally Posted by zigzag

Silicone is an inert material used to make stuff slicker. Silicones can be formulated to be reactive and cross-link with themselves or other functional resins. Most often, silicone is used as an additive and is not used as the resinous backbone of a formulated coating. As a treatment for strings, it might be advantageous for guitar strings to make them slicker, but to rejuvenate strings, I'd recommend a solvent, like anhydrous alcohol (e.g. isopropanol), to clean the oxidation, oils, and other grime off of the string surface and in between metal windings. Solvents evaporate so there is residue.

silicone is not good for cleaning strings because it gets into the fingerboard. My luthier told me that there was a guitar that was brought in for a refret in which the owner used a silicone based cleaner on the strings fairly regularly. The luthier couldn't get the frets to stick and stay down. He ended up having to soak the fingerboard in solvent to remove the silicone and the $300 refret turned into a very expensive repair

**vinnyv1k** · 08-28-2015, 09:57 AM

Right again Jack:

S100 Carnauba Paste Wax is a remarkable easy-to-apply paste wax! It wipes on and off easily and leaves a vivid shine. S100 Carnauba Paste Wax protects motorcycle paintwork with a blend of pure carnauba wax and beeswax. The chemists at S100 searched from the depths of the Black Forest to the peak of the Alps but they couldn't find an easy-to-apply carnauba paste wax. So, they developed it, and you'll love it! S100 Carnauba Wax is a hand-poured blend of German waxes, proprietary ingredients and pure Brazilian Carnauba wax. The result is a wax that goes on and comes off with incredible ease. There's virtually no chalky, powder residues and it won't stain rubber, plastic, or vinyl trim moldings. Great shine. No chalky residues! Bottom line, S100 Carnauba Paste Wax gives a great shine in very little time.

**zigzag** · 08-28-2015, 10:30 AM

No wax, esp. carnauba, adds gloss. The larger the wax particle size, the lower the gloss. Wax compounds or pastes are often formulated with resins to work as surfactants to keep wax particles from re-agglomerating. If gloss is increased after adding a carnauba paste, the gloss is coming from the resinous phase of the compound, not from the wax.

Again, if you want to put wax and resin on the surface of your guitar, that's your business. I wouldn't recommend it. I would definitely not put anything that leaves significant residue on a valuable or collectable guitar.

**phazyme** · 08-29-2015, 05:01 AM

Maestro Cleaner and Maestro polish

**skiboyny** · 09-08-2015, 07:23 AM

Originally Posted by Jonathan Levin

When I got my D'Aquisto Excel in mid 1985, Jimmy used lemon Pledge to polish his guitars. He swore by it and thats what I used with no issues. I have to assume he knew what he was doing/talking about.

After reading all the hype about virtuoso I purchased a bottle of the cleaner and the polish. I have to say I'm not to impressed. It did shine well but in the right light left a film most prevalent over the dark color of the guitar. The only thing that removed it was lemon Pledge. Go figure...

**joe2758** · 05-23-2016, 08:58 PM

i don't go overboard with cleaning and polishing, but i would like to get rid of the gunk that builds every few months. i had bad experience with swirl marks (very fine and light surface scratches) using a gibson cloth and their polish. so then i got some virtuoso cleaner and polish and used their cloth. only slightly better. so i got a planet waves micro mesh cloth and used that with the virtuoso polish, but i am still getting swirl marks!? i swear i'm not using much pressure. it's like a curse or something. advice? i can see how this could be a slipperly slope, so i vow not to touh until i figure out what's going on. i thought i saw virtuoso was specifically supposed to erase light marks like these

**Cunamara** · 05-23-2016, 09:35 PM

What kind of finish are you polishing?

**Max405** · 05-23-2016, 09:59 PM

Joe,
Swirl marks a micro scratches in the paint.
you need to get the swirl marks buffed out with a polish. I use Menzerna 085rd. It's a very light polish that cuts the surface down and levels it. Once you have removed the swirl marks, then you can use a sealant to protect it. The virtuoso is a nice sealant. Remember, polishes cut, sealants protect.
after you level the surface, apply the virtuoso with a foam applicator and remove it with a microfiber towel. Never use anything else.
Joe D

**Jabberwocky** · 05-24-2016, 12:49 AM

Menzerna 085RD, as Joe sez. You require the proper polishing head or cloth for it. Menzerna offers an orange one. Check out the car detailing forum on how it is used. It gives a mirror glossy finish.

I kinda like my guitars with a satin used sheen so I don't worry about swirl marks any longer. The best treatment is a going-over with a lightly damp pure cotton old t-shirt.

**GNAPPI** · 05-24-2016, 05:44 AM

Sooo... that's what they call those marks? :-)

I ignore them, they ignore me, no problem.

Seriously if they bother you avoiding them (and arm sweat haze) in the first place by using a clean soft cloth (like Jab suggests) all the time and using very little pressure is the best tack, once you have them and clear them they will be back unless you prevent them in the first place.

The haze I prevent by either covering the lower bout when I practice or by wearing one of my long sleeved T shirts.

**joe2758** · 05-24-2016, 08:55 AM

Cunamara- nitro

Joe DeNisco- I should have specified, I was using the virtuoso cleaner hoping to buff out the swirl marks, and then the virtuoso polish as sealant. I never heard of a foam applicator, I will look that up. Is that better than even the fancy planet waves micro fiber cloth that I was using?

Jabberwocky- Is that stuff actually better than the virtuoso cleaner and the micro fiber cloth? I mean I already dropped all this money. I thought I was getting the best of the best based on a good amount of research. I just don't get it...I might rather let the grime accumulate than continue adding swirl marks. I like the satin look too, I was trying to clean as general maintenance; I don't care if it's not shiny all the time. The swirl marks bother me because it looks like one of those guys that go over the top and end up doing more harm than good. How could I foster a vintage satin look without swirl marks over time? that would be ideal.

GNAPPI- all good advice, thanks. I'll probably go back to wearing my arm sock haha

**Longways to Go** · 05-24-2016, 09:20 AM

Regarding "arm socks" I have a friend who uses a black one when playing his Martin 000.
Unfortunately, over time it has dyed the edge of his guitar darker! LOL

I used Dunlop 65 with a microfiber cloth every few weeks.
Also I do a quick dry wipe down after playing with flannel.
Keeps the guitars looking & feeling great

**Max405** · 05-24-2016, 10:07 AM

Joe,

The Menzerna is a finishing polish. It is capable of removing swirl marks. It is a non diminishing polish. Meaning the abrasives will not degrade. So the longer you buff, the more clear you will remove. It is extremely easy to work with. You can do it by hand, I prefer to polish with a Porter Cable random orbital polisher and a Black pad, it takes a fraction of the time and effort. It is very safe to use because it contains the finest abrasive. An abrasive meant to polish to the most brilliant shine you ever seen. So it doesn't remove large quantities quickly. Also, it contains a lubricant. I've never burned through any paint with it. And trust me, I've burned through paint. I burned through paint on the hood of a Lamborghini LP640, using P21s multi surface restorer. You cant do that with the P085rd.
As far as the foam applicator pads, any pad will do just go to you nearest AutoZone or Sears and they have them for 3 for $4.00. The yellow foam ones are perfect. I use them and when I am done, I put it in an airtight plastic sandwich bag, so I have no waste of expensive Virtuoso. Once the pad is dirty, just throw it out.

For me, micro fiber clothes are always good for REMOVING polish and Sealants. Not applying them.They dont distribute product well. They remove it amazing well.

Joe D

**Jim Soloway** · 05-24-2016, 10:17 AM

You could always do what I do ... just leave it all there. I've had my Heritage for about 18 months and I think I've wiped the dust off the body twice and the only thing that's touched the neck and fingerboard are my hands. Just think of it as imprinting the guitar with your own DNA.

**joe2758** · 05-24-2016, 10:34 AM

Interesting Jim. Actually the only reason I don't do that very thing is because I have heard that it is bad for the guitar in the long run. Is that not the case? Like I said, I don't care to have a super shiny guitar; it's more a maintenance thing for me. Thanks!

**Jim Soloway** · 05-24-2016, 11:12 AM

It probably depends on the finish. Almost everything eats nitro finishes (as vs poly) but top of the list would just be human contact. Some people are definitely more toxic to nitro than others, but ultimately just playing a guitar is going to cause a certain amount of wear and eventually a guitar with a nitro finish that gets a lot of play is going to end up with a lot of damage to the finish.

**Max405** · 05-24-2016, 11:21 AM

Originally Posted by joe2758

Interesting Jim. Actually the only reason I don't do that very thing is because I have heard that it is bad for the guitar in the long run. Is that not the case? Like I said, I don't care to have a super shiny guitar; it's more a maintenance thing for me. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Jim Soloway

You could always do what I do ... just leave it all there. I've had my Heritage for about 18 months and I think I've wiped the dust off the body twice and the only thing that's touched the neck and fingerboard are my hands. Just think of it as imprinting the guitar with your own DNA.

I SOOOO wish I could be like Jim. I really do.
last night I walked into my music room and looked at all my guitars and struggled with which one I was going to play. I wanted to play the JP20 but I didn't. The reason? Because I Virtuoso'd 4 of my 5 archtops (including the JP) the night before. I didn't want to touch them for 24 hours so I made sure the sealant had enough cure time before I wiped them down. So I ended up playing the only one that I didn't Virtuoso so when after I was done playing it, I wiped it down and put a fresh coat of virtuoso on it.
Joe, caring for the Guitars are good in the long run. The only thing you need to be careful with is, sometimes you can accidently put scratches in the finish if you are using a cloth that was contaminated with grit. Always change out your micro fibers. Wash them in light detergent with VINEGAR! Always use Vinegar. Never use a fabric softener..

You see what I mean? Am I nuts or what?..

Joe D.

**mr. beaumont** · 05-24-2016, 11:25 AM

It all has to do with environment.

In my house, if there's not cheetos floating around in my guitars or the occasional fruit loop, then I'm all good.

**Doctor Jeff** · 05-24-2016, 11:30 AM

I can't add to the comments on abrasives and polishing. I personally have never used abrasives, just an auto product called Winzer Reflection--recommended to me by Dave's Guitar Shop--and the Stewart Mac Preservation Polish:

Preservation Polish | stewmac.com

Obviously once you have scratches, only an abrasive will take them out, but as mentioned it's a bit of an art form.

**Greentone** · 05-24-2016, 02:35 PM

You will get down to wood, sooner or later, if you keep using a polishing compound. A little lower-bout haze where your arm rests on the guitar is maybe preferable to wear through from obsessive polishing. It's a toss up.

My hands are bone dry, but my arms perspire up around the elbow. Thus, while I don't get corroded strings, I do get a mark on the guitar on the lower bout if I don't remember to wear long sleeves. This is, of course, a non-problem with poly finishes. It's always good to keep a less expensive archtop around as your everyday, pick-up-and-play instrument--especially if it has a poly finish.

I don't know if the finish on my Matsumoku is poly or nitro (I suspect poly), but it still looks remarkably new after nearly 40 years. So, it remains my everyday archtop. The carved archtops in nitro finish are "couple of days a week" guitars. (Lately, though, my Super Eagle has been played everyday. Gotta get the PE back into daily rotation and save the finish on the Heritage.)

**JazzmanLehmann** · 06-13-2018, 09:54 AM

Hello everybody,

As some of you know, i just bought an Guild X-500 from the 70’s. Of course i want to clean and polish the guitar. But i don’t want to use a polish that contains harmful things like silicone ec. I also don’t want to fill things up or get a second “finish” on her, like some heavy wax products do. So i searched a little and found two great products. The Lizard Spit VIP is especially for vintage instruments, sounds good, but it contains wax. The other polish is the Dr. Ducks Ax Waxe. This dosent contains wax, but isn’t especially for vintage instruments. I also saw a yt video from Martin Guitars where the guy recommended the Ax Waxe beside they’re Martin polish. I know, the Virtuoso polish is really good, but here in Germany it’s completely unavailable.

So, do you think that the lizard spit would been too overpowering with its wax content? The fact that it’s especially designed for vintage finishes sound really great. But like i said, i dont want something to heavy. Can someone share his experience with those products, or recommend something different?

Here the links:
Ducks Deluxe : Dr.Duck's Ax Wax & String Lube : World Headquarters

4 oz. V.I.P. Vintage Instrument Polish

**Papawooly** · 06-13-2018, 12:47 PM

Jazzman,

I only use the normal Gibson Nitro polish and good cloth.

I have an L5 that had been gigged heavily with and had significant
buildup of sweat which the Gibson polish took care of, but did require
a bit of elbow grease. I use this polish on ALL of my guitars.

The 2 items above also look to be very good, but I haven't used them.

Mitego Dnia!

**Woody Sound** · 06-13-2018, 12:53 PM

Many years ago I use a major brand (Gibson or Martin, I don't remember) on my 60's Johnny Smith. It whitewashed/clouded sections of the guitar that I could never get clear again.