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  1. #1

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    Which roundwound strings you like most and why ?
    Nickelplated steel or pure nickel ?

    (for example...Daddario Ej21 or pure nickel Epn21 )

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  3. #2

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    Pure nickel has a warmer sound with fewer overtones, and higher tension at the same gauge.

    I prefer nickel plated - more lively and dynamic feeling.
    Permanent favorites: 2016 Gibson L-5 WesMo, 1999 Gibson L-5CESN, 1928 Gibson L-5
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  4. #3

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    Pure Nickel! I've been told that the overtones in pure nickel strings are slightly more in tune and so the overall sound is clearer. I have tuned pianos for many years, and the experience of my ears seems to verify it. I've also done audio recording for a long time and I don't like distortion. So a pure guitar sound is my preference. Curt Mangan Strings, because they seem to last the longest of any string, are my choice.

  5. #4

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    nickel plated, D'addario
    Paolo

  6. #5

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    La Bella Silk and Steel Gypsy Jazz Series GJM
    Make a jazz noise here

  7. #6

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    Pyramid round core nickel (Tele)and TI Bebops (archtop) which IIRC are also nickel. I prefer the warmth of nickel vs. stainless and I prefer round core to hex core.

  8. #7

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    I've come to love the sound and feel of Ernie Ball Not Even Slinky strings on my Les Paul. It stopped my GAS for the time being and I've come to enjoy the tone I get from my amp as well.

    I know it's weird, but aren't we all?

  9. #8

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    John Pearse - Jazz Light Pure Nickel Wound ( in the 11's they run heavier than most others: .011, .015, .022 wound, .030, .040, .050).

  10. #9

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    TI Bebop 13

  11. #10
    so..i can see that a lot of us likes pure nickel strings

    I like them too...

    a) thomastik pure nickel Bebob

    b) fender pure nickel ( 0.11 is the heavier for fender)

    c) d'addario Epn21

  12. #11

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    I really like the John Pearse Archtop pure nickel strings. They last a long time, feel good under the fingers, and sound good.

  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cunamara View Post
    Pyramid round core nickel (Tele)and TI Bebops (archtop) which IIRC are also nickel. I prefer the warmth of nickel vs. stainless and I prefer round core to hex core.
    +1

  14. #13

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    TI Jazz Bebop

  15. #14

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    Epn's for me
    "Oh, those jazz guys are just making that stuff up!" - Homer

  16. #15

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    pure nickel seems to have some intonation problems from the various sets I've tried. The larger guages seem to have a problem with volume matching too.

  17. #16

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    Agree on the intonation problems with some pure nickel strings, just put on a set and the 'A' string is way off...

  18. #17

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    Nickel - TI Jazz Bebop 12's.
    I like them because they are smoother, more polished. They feel more elegant under my fingertips. And the 12's have a 50 low E. I have to go down to 11's with the Chromes to get a 50 Low E. I don't like an 11 high E.
    Also, I've been told, Since Nickel is softer than steel, the pure nickel is gentler on your frets. I like that.

    I completely stopped using anything other than TI12's when I learned the Vinny string change method.
    Put on the strings, tune them to pitch. Let them stretch out over night, naturally. DO NOT CUT them until 24 hours later. They ring brighter for a longer period of time. Less thumpy.. 4 string changes using this method. So far, so good!

  19. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe DeNisco View Post
    Nickel - TI Jazz Bebop 12's.
    I like them because they are smoother, more polished. They feel more elegant under my fingertips. And the 12's have a 50 low E. I have to go down to 11's with the Chromes to get a 50 Low E. I don't like an 11 high E.
    Also, I've been told, Since Nickel is softer than steel, the pure nickel is gentler on your frets. I like that.

    I completely stopped using anything other than TI12's when I learned the Vinny string change method.
    Put on the strings, tune them to pitch. Let them stretch out over night, naturally. DO NOT CUT them until 24 hours later. They ring brighter for a longer period of time. Less thumpy.. 4 string changes using this method. So far, so good!
    who is Vinny ?
    Why is that : DO NOT CUT them until 24 hours later
    Last edited by jkstigma; 06-07-2015 at 05:40 AM.

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by jkstigma View Post
    who is Vinny ?
    Why is that : DO NOT CUT them until 24 hours later
    I've been wondering about that one myself (???)

    I know the standard advice with round wounds on round cores is that you need to bend the string ends before cutting them; the bend prevents the winding from unraveling. But waiting 24 hours....would like to see a reference cited if possible.

  21. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
    I've been wondering about that one myself (???)

    I know the standard advice with round wounds on round cores is that you need to bend the string ends before cutting them; the bend prevents the winding from unraveling. But waiting 24 hours....would like to see a reference cited if possible.

    IMHO round core strings work best with split shaft tuners like on my Tele and GB10. Cut to length, insert down into the shaft and bend at a right angle. When you start winding the string is bent again resulting in 2 right angle bends which locks the string very effectively. Plus you get a very neat headstock without any sharp pokey string ends sticking out.

  22. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
    I've been wondering about that one myself (???)

    I know the standard advice with round wounds on round cores is that you need to bend the string ends before cutting them; the bend prevents the winding from unraveling. But waiting 24 hours....would like to see a reference cited if possible.
    sorry but I have to laugh. That's just folklore. I have had the same set of thomstiks on my 175 for over a year and didn't do any of that. I put them on, locked them using this method


    and stretched them out immediately.

    Although my wife *WAS* playing african rhythms on her Djembe drum during and after...Hmmm....

  23. #22

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    Thanks Jack. That's almost precisely what I do (except for the Djembe ).

  24. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighSpeedSpoon View Post
    Thanks Jack. That's almost precisely what I do (except for the Djembe ).
    my strings never stayed in tune or lasted beyond 6 months until sande started doing the djembe juju.

  25. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by jkstigma View Post
    Why is that : DO NOT CUT them until 24 hours later
    In fact, the true rule is :
    NEVER cut the string when the moon is rising ! NEVER
    If you do ....
    eh...
    .. if you do ...
    It will grow up in the night and you'll have to cut it once more


    More seriously :
    when you cut the string, when ever you do it, beware to cut it on the right side of the post, otherwise, it won't stay in tune for long !!!!
    Make a jazz noise here

  26. #25

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    don't forget that you need to file and cauterize the ends of the strings after cutting.

  27. #26

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    I don't know why but it works for me that's all I can say.

  28. #27

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    so does the djembe As I said. I do none of that, play and practice 3 + hours a day and my GS112 strings have been on the axe for over a year though I have changed the plain strings a few times.

  29. #28

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    i should add, I play very hard and aggressively. I have not babied the strings. They do not have a break-in period.

  30. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by 339 in june View Post
    ...when you cut the string, when ever you do it, beware to cut it on the right side ...
    When you cut the string, make sure the right side, I mean the leftover, and not the direction to the nut, otherwise you will hear an instant baaannnggg, and have to start over the whole thing.

  31. #30

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    Not folklore at all. All companies that make pure nickel strings on round core, specify that the string must be bent at 90 degrees to set the core than tensioned before cutting. Using the method you shown essentially does that. Whatever works....

    Quote Originally Posted by jzucker View Post
    sorry but I have to laugh. That's just folklore. I have had the same set of thomstiks on my 175 for over a year and didn't do any of that. I put them on, locked them using this method


    and stretched them out immediately.

    Although my wife *WAS* playing african rhythms on her Djembe drum during and after...Hmmm....
    Last edited by skiboyny; 10-18-2019 at 02:23 PM.

  32. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cunamara View Post
    Pyramid round core nickel (Tele)and TI Bebops (archtop) which IIRC are also nickel. I prefer the warmth of nickel vs. stainless and I prefer round core to hex core.
    Talking to myself, here. So I wrote this a while back. Since then my tastes seem to have changed, Maybe as I have found myself switching from PAF style humbuckers to single coil or stacked humbuckers. I find the contrast between the plain strings and pure nickel wound strings to be a bit annoying as there's a tonal imbalance, at least on some of my guitars. The plain steel strings are just brighter. So I have found myself gravitating towards brighter wound strings because then the EQ affects all of them more or less equally. I've even had good results with stainless steel around ones, at least with single coil guitars (Biltoft HCC, Bill Lawrence L280TN which are concentric humbuckers). Mostly I have gone to using nickel plated rather than pure nickel strings. I do still prefer round cord to hex core, but the difference isn't night and day. I can't use flatwounds for a very long for the same reason; the tonal difference between the plain steel strings and the wound strings is just too great.
    Beauty is as close to terror as we can well endure. -Rainer Maria Rilke