The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #51

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    If the fit is loose enough for the pickup to freely rotate around the bar, then what keeps the pickup from moving along the length of the bar?

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  3. #52

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    Just ordered one for my L5 CT , just need to get a replacement pickguard and some thumbwheel pots . Im looking forward to this one. Bob

  4. #53

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    I have one of these pups and love it. There is a slight hum to it but less than a P90, at least in my house.

    The "stick" that the bass side is on can be bent slightly if you have to, but be careful. The height adjustment and pup angle under the strings is adjustable by raising or lowering the pickguard.

    I suggest putting this pickup near the strings. That gives you the best signal to noise ratio.

    I just put a 500k volume pot on mine and haven't plugged it in yet. The original pot really had to be replaced.

  5. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2bornot2bop
    Now that's a find whose time has come. Nice one snoskier.

    What's going on with the far left edge though? Is that a beveled raised edge or a reflection on the top of the far left edge? If it's not a reflection it's not like the originals.
    They all had that bevel . . . even the 1000s. The repros are a mirror image perfect copy.

  6. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpguitar
    It pivots on the rod, yes, and there is no set screw. In practice, it finds its equilibrium once installed and does not move on that axis. It is able to pivot on the rod so that the other end can lodge under the pickguard. Which is what happens - the tab on the right side lodges under the guard. You shouldn't glue it and you don't have to if it's correctly installed. It is supposed to be snug but moveable.
    Yes, it's supposed to be snug and moveable. But, there is a little tab that goes under the pick guard. If you don't have the monkey on a stick mounting version, but the shorter rod, the travel length of movement is only 1-1/2". I'm thinking that the tab might need to ride in a channelled slot in a wood tab under the straight edge of the pick guard.

  7. #56

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    MG,

    What is the value of the original pot? And what difference do you expect a 500k pot will make? Mine seems to sound very good through my Henriksen.

  8. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielleOM
    I am still having trouble seeing this. Not exactly able to picture what is happening where you say one end lodges under the guard. What keeps that end in place? What stops that end from dropping onto the guitar top?

    Danielle
    Good old felt.

  9. #58

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    Folks, I know we are very spoilt by modern conveniences, bespoke guitars with precisely specified accessories, and so on. But I assure you... Long ago these DeArmonds were sold as aftermarket add-ons. You do not need grooved wooden channels on your 'guard or similar customizations to use the pickup. There is a tab, and it is situated such that it tucks under the pickguard. It stays there. It really does. I've had one on a Gibson L-5 for a few years now. It is held down by a magical force of physics that I am hardly able to describe.

    Jab is correct that a layer of felt is normally affixed to the bottom of the pickup. On the 1100 there are two small circular felts. However, on some vintage guitars you have to pull off the felt because it's still too thick to allow string clearance.

  10. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpguitar
    Folks, I know we are very spoilt by modern conveniences, bespoke guitars with precisely specified accessories, and so on. But I assure you... Long ago these DeArmonds were sold as aftermarket add-ons. You do not need grooved wooden channels on your 'guard or similar customizations to use the pickup. There is a tab, and it is situated such that it tucks under the pickguard. It stays there. It really does. I've had one on a Gibson L-5 for a few years now. It is held down by a magical force of physics that I am hardly able to describe.

    Jab is correct that a layer of felt is normally affixed to the bottom of the pickup. On the 1100 there are two small circular felts. However, on some vintage guitars you have to pull off the felt because it's still too thick to allow string clearance.
    What keeps the tab from rattling/vibrating on the underside of the PG? That's the concern I had when I saw it. If that tab is touching the underside of the PG . . wouldn't that be a potential vibration spot? Also, what keeps the tabbed end from dropping down a bit due to vibrations or the weight of the wire? The rod is *fairly* snug. But, the wire on the end of the pup would surely put (tug) downward pressure on that side of the pup . . causing the treble side to not stay perfectly level with the underside of the strings. I just ain't quite into this "magical force of physics" shit. If there's a force pulling the pup down, such as I'm assuming that wire would . . then, it's going to dip until the circular felt is resting on the top plate.

    Now you see why I don't do this stuff myself. I'm just gonna bring my guitar and the 1100 clone up to Steve Hayes.

    If you've got further insight or good answers to my concerns, I'd love to hear them. If not, I'll pose the same questions to Steve.

    I was surpriced to see that the screws were already adjusted in a radius. I'm sure Steve will further balance it out.

  11. #60

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    Jab and Roger are right. I have three DeArmond "monkee on a stick". Two are FHC and one is Rhythm Chief. Somehow, they just don't move nor vibrate.

  12. #61

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    does the reissue have rhythm and lead switching options?

  13. #62

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    To be clear, the 1100 does rest on the top. It does not literally float. The combination of the tab wedged under the guard, and the felt on that end resting on the top, stops movement. It's like a double fulcrum kinda, it can't move up or down. I was being facetious about a miracle of physics... Obviously.

    The rod side of the pickup usually rests very lightly on the top as well, but that end's degree of "lift" is subject to how much bend is in the rod. You can tweak it carefully as needed.

    It's all much more complicated to explain then just to experience it for yourself.

    The tab is covered with a vinyl/soft plastic material that has natural friction with the guard, so it doesn't vibrate.

    Finally, the rhythm/lead settings were in the control box. This repro doesn't come with a control box.
    Last edited by rpguitar; 07-03-2015 at 08:58 PM.

  14. #63

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    Does anyone know the difference between the Rhythm Chief 1100 and the Rhythm Chief 1000? (The RC 1000 comes standard on the new Guild A-150 Savoy)

  15. #64

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    i see that all their current pups are available now. any idea how true they are to the originals, and where are they made (or who makes them)? the mini/humbucker things and the p90esque things are back as well, and i'm a little curious.

  16. #65

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    I can't decide if I want one of these DeArmond 1100 reissues or a Kent Armstrong handmade PAF floater for my L7.

    I'm thinking the DeArmond might cut a little better, at the cost of a little 60 cycle hum, but the Armstrong might be a bit fuller, rounder, warmer.

    I don't want to pull this thread too far off course, but if anyone wants to chime in with an opinion, I'm all ears...

  17. #66

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flat
    I can't decide if I want one of these DeArmond 1100 reissues or a Kent Armstrong handmade PAF floater for my L7.
    Depending on the vintage of your L7, it might not be a choice. The KA 12 pole is a much thicker pickup than any of the DeArmond models. The DeArmonds are among the slimmest of all floaters. They, along with the KA slimbucker, are the only floaters that will fit a lot of pre-electric vintage Gibsons (30s, 40s).

  18. #67

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    Quote Originally Posted by s1track3d
    Does anyone know the difference between the Rhythm Chief 1100 and the Rhythm Chief 1000? (The RC 1000 comes standard on the new Guild A-150 Savoy)
    There is a significant difference. You'd be best served to google them and get a correct technical explanation/

  19. #68

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpguitar
    To be clear, the 1100 does rest on the top. It does not literally float. The combination of the tab wedged under the guard, and the felt on that end resting on the top, stops movement. It's like a double fulcrum kinda, it can't move up or down. I was being facetious about a miracle of physics... Obviously.

    The rod side of the pickup usually rests very lightly on the top as well, but that end's degree of "lift" is subject to how much bend is in the rod. You can tweak it carefully as needed.

    It's all much more complicated to explain then just to experience it for yourself.

    The tab is covered with a vinyl/soft plastic material that has natural friction with the guard, so it doesn't vibrate.

    Finally, the rhythm/lead settings were in the control box. This repro doesn't come with a control box.
    lolol . . Of course I knew yoy were just being New Jersey facetios about the physics. I was just being New Jersey arrogant in my reply. Although no one's ever noticed . . . . I do that often.

    I've got no vinyl on the tab of the clone I just bought. That's why I expressed the concern. What you say about the double fulcrum makes perfect sense. The thought of having to bend the rod concerns me, due to the plating. Also, not sure I want the felt resting on the sound board. I just gonna leave it all up to Steve Hayes. "He da man!"

  20. #69

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    Quote Originally Posted by feet
    i see that all their current pups are available now. any idea how true they are to the originals, and where are they made (or who makes them)? the mini/humbucker things and the p90esque things are back as well, and i'm a little curious.
    I'm not sure of the specifics of who makes them, but each new pickup is supposed to be an exact clone of their vintage counterpart. I have the new RC 1100 and the Franz pups, and have owned vintage Guilds with the original Franz, mini buckers, and HB-1's. It's hard to compare them since the originals were on guitars 40 - 60 years old, but the newest USA Guilds and their pickups are unbelievably good.

  21. #70

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpguitar
    Depending on the vintage of your L7, it might not be a choice...
    I was hoping to elicit your opinion, Roger. Thanks. Excellent point. My L7 is a '44. I better check to see how much room I have...

    Added later: You were right! The KA Floating PAF requires 5/8" clearance (guitar top to depressed string). Even his 2D Micro Humbucker requires 7/16". That might fit my L7. Might. Barely. I think the DeArmond is my best option.

    If the guitar ends up sounding just a little like Chris Flory on "City Life," I'll be delighted.
    Last edited by Flat; 07-05-2015 at 01:26 PM.

  22. #71

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    A 500k pot will give a brighter sound than a 250k not the other way round, the higher resistance stops more treble frequencies from escaping where as the 250k allows more treble bleed off giving a deeper sound which is why 250k pots are used mainly with single coils.

  23. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick2
    I've got no vinyl on the tab of the clone I just bought.
    Some judiciously trimmed and wrapped electrical tape also does the trick. Also, this allows for some flexibility to fit the tab in there nice and snug depending on the particular height of your pickguard.

  24. #73

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    Thanks Roger. Now, all I've got to do is decide which of my archies with floaters the 1100 clone will go on. I'd love to try it on the 18" Unity. But, the KA single coil with adjustable screw pole sounds really good just the way it is.

    Ain't gonna touch either of my Heritage D'Angelicos!

    The original Guild AA full size dual coil pup sounds terrible. But, it's unplugged acoustic tone is beautiful. It would seem that would make the AA the best candidate. But, I couldn't live with the less than perfect cut out in the pick guard the the 1100 would create. The best price I've gotten for a repro non cut out AA pick guard is $250. I've just spent $164 on an 1100 clone. I'm not sure I'm going to be keeping the AA for a long period of time. So, do I really want to put another $414 into a guitar than I know I'll not recoup? But, maybe the improved tone of the 1100 will make me totally forget about selling the AA.

    My 17" Unity has a full size floater. It was the Heritage #1 pup, which Aaron got from Heritage when he built it in 1994. Not a great pup!! I've since had Kent armstron rebuild the pup with his *innards* and it sounds great. But, I got tired of the gold plated look and sprayed it with a matt black. Now, I totally hate the look!!! I've also got a spare non cut out pick guard for this Unity, (as I do the 18" Unity) so I could easily have that cut out made to a perfect fit for the 1100 clone. Same with the spare pick gurad on the 18" Unity. Then, I could actually switch pick guards on either without ever swapping out the pups. Hmmm . . . that could provide some fun options in different amplified tone with a 5 minute pick guard swap!! That could be interesting.

    But . . now what do I do with the brand new Benedetto S6 pup that I bought from the guy who bought my ASB Super Eagle?

    Arrgghhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm usually not indecisive and can make immediate decisions. This ain't one of those times.

  25. #74

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    @Patrick,

    My 71 Guild AA has a factory Dearmond and sounds great both amplified and acoustically. I think that you will see an improvement with the Dearmond over the stock PUP in your late model AA, BUT...(There is always a but in life, or is it a butt?) remember that when Guild put humbuckers on the AA, they increased the scale length from 25.5 to 25 and 5/8 (probably to add brightness, compensating for the loss of highs with the humbucker), so you may be better off with a better humbucker as opposed to the single coil Dearmond repro. The Benedetto floater would be a good choice IMO..(and would probably fit well with the stock pickguard)

    Good luck sorting it out.

  26. #75

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    Patrick, I'm interested in how you compare the 1100 repro to your KA single coil, since that's really the only alternative for those of us unwilling to shell out $1k for an original.

    i bought a repro, but haven't had a chance try it yet. I keep hearing how these are exact copies, but the ohm rating on the repro 1100 is half that of the originals (but same as a p90 or JS). Anyone have insights as to why?
    Last edited by ingeneri; 07-04-2015 at 05:20 PM.