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This is very important thing.
any others possibilities of fitting the bridge to an arch-top guitar?
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02-16-2012 08:31 AM
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That StewMac fitting jig is what I would have suggested.
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It looks like it's very precise. But, it also looks like it's a system/method for a newer and/or less experienced guitar tech/luthier. (Dan obviously doesn't fall into that catagory, so please do not misinterpret.)
Most of the more experienced guitar techs/luthiers I know would just use the sand paper taped to the top with no markings at all and hold the bridge base in their fingers. I've seen Aaron Cowles, on really bad bridge bases, first use a spindle sander, then fit it to the top with the sand paper taped to the top. He's done a few for me and they are always perfect.
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Stewmac is in the business of supplying many things, including tools that may be innovative and handy - especially for the occasional user, but not necessarily necessary for a fine job.
In my opinion.
Also, as P2 mentions, the rough fit is often best done off the guitar, then the fine fit can be done via the sandpaper method.
Still in my opinion.
Chris
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The jig is probably very handy if you dont have a lot of experience and/or have to do a lot.
I did a few without the tool also in the way like patrick and ptchris were saying
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That jig is Stewmacs version of one that's been around for ever, first in the violin world. I use a homemade version (very similar) and, with respect to others, wouldn't hand-sand a base without it. The problem with hand held is rigidity.... sandpaper "drag", if not held securely, causes the base to "lean over" in the direction you're pushing ..... impossible to prevent it just holding it in your hands. This means the base will alternately lean toward the tail, then the head, as you sand back & forth. The sanded surface ends up be slightly convex (allowing it to rock a bit for & aft) rather than being infinitesimally concave, as it should be. The other benefit of this type of holder is to allow you to dial in the bridge tilt to accurately bisect the breakover angle, which varries on each guitar.
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The comments in your post are all very plausable, in theory. I guess there is "correct" . . . and there is "perfect". Just like the myriad discussions of Plek vs skilled tech with the proper tools and no Plek machine. And, I do not intend for the term "correct" to be interpreted as "good enough".
Originally Posted by DaveS
These potential inconsistencies you speak of in your post, when fitting a bridge base without the jig are obviously a possibility ... but, not an assured end result. Similary a bridge base jig in the hands of a less skilled tech would also present the possibilty of inconsistent results. I've just seen too many bridge bases fitted "correctly" with no jig, to believe that it can't be done. Who's to say it's not as "perfect", without checking each and every one with a jig after it was hand fitted? I'm sure theory would suggest that to be the case, but not prove it to be factual.
The jig method clearly provides more exacting results in less time than many could achieve without it. But, I disagree with your opinion that correct and near perfect, if not perfect results are not possible unless you use a jig.
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I have fitted bridges using this technique.
FRETS.COM
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In my opinion, the fit of a violin/viola/cello/upright bass bridge is FAR more critical than an archtop base.
Try to fit a violin bridge sometime and note the tiny contact area, the very easy ability to tilt the bridge by mistake, the more extreme arch, and the mechanical leverage of the tall bridge - which helps screw-ups. And, the very significant effect of a mis-fit on a violin.
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>>> using this technique.
Ya know, I have never read a thing from Frank Ford that was not accurate, effective, practical, and a step-and-a-half above most of what is published as expert advice.
In my opinion.
Chris
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Chris,
I agree. I found using a knife as a scraper to remove some of the wood works nicely and saves having to remove sawdust that can "load" the sandpaper. The sandpaper can be used to just scratch the bridge so you can see the places that hit the top first.
Just as a footnote: I try to really protect the finish on the top of the instrument from any grit that comes off of the sand paper. If you're not careful you may have to buff out some new scratches.
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I worked with my Gibson ABR-1 rosewood base.
I used sandpaper on the top of the guitar.
I can see it is not the perfect fitting.
Guitar sound is OK anyway.Last edited by kris; 02-17-2012 at 03:24 PM. Reason: update
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The thing with using the stew mac jig is that you are dragging the grain of the bridge base at right angles against the sandpaper, this leaves a roughness on the base. I would mark the base with pencil lead, rub the base 2-3 times across a 180 grit paper to see where the wood needs to come off and then use my trusty old sharp knife along the grain. Repeat until the final sandpaper scrape shows a clear pass then use the knife to 'polish off' the grain.
Yeah, a bit of both types does me, always use what works for you.
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Yep, many schools of thought on this one. I am a knife-scraper for many things on guitars.
In the end you either fit the base well (without gouging the guitar top) or you didn't - regardless of method.
Some feel that a rough base bottom is a good thing, some do not.
And as with SO many things on guitars, some very different points of view can both be ideal in a specific case in the widely varying circumstances of one guitar to the next.
It's like the PLEK arguments. One player says it changed life on earth as we know it, and another says it did nothing. Sure one of them might be an idiot, but more likely, the loaded vs. unloaded neck shapes on the two guitars were far different. So for one the PLEK was a lifesaver, and for the other it was no better than an average-at-best hand leveling.
It happens.
Hey Kris, you lost me with your ABR-1 base comment. But I have HUGE respect for your English language effort. I have struggled in a foreign language many times by necessity, and really admire your skill.
But you do spell your name funny,...
Chris
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Thanks for help.:-)
Sorry for my English language.
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My first post - finally something to offer!
Having fit many mandolin bridges, I have used the method described here - pencil marks on the base to see where material is being removed, and sandpaper on the top to rub in the shape. To eliminate the "rounding" affect of rubbing the bridge, when you are reasonably happy with the fit use the curve of a pocket knife blade as a scraper to create a very slight concave hollow along the center of the base. This helps to ensure a solid fit at the edges.
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I changed the Gibson ABR-1 base for the ebony all contact base.
I/ve used the method with sandpaper on the top of guitar.
This new ebony base fit much better than rosewood Gibson base.
I like the sound with new base more.
It is warm and woody...no more metalic sound like before with Gibson rosewood/violin style base.
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