-
Can anyone refer me to a thread aboutf cleaning and maintenance of archtops? I have a 1970's L5-C converted to an electric at some time in the past. When I got it it was covered with a black sludge or something. Virtuoso Cleaner removed all the black stuff off the guitar and the natural finish is back now. I also have a Trenier Jazz Special andd am wondering about polishing it and any other needed maintenance. It has a wooden pickguard. Does this require special cleaniing treatment or is Dunlop 65 okay for it? Does the Gibson need a treatment of lemon oil on the fretboard? Judging by the condition the guitar was in, I don't think the fretboard was cleaned. I have had it about 4 or 5 years. The Trenier is about 6 or 9 years old. Is Dunlop 65 okay for routine cleaning of should I use something else like Virtuoso Polish? I used Virtuoso Cleaner on my 1951 Epiphone Zephyr Regent and it made it look like new.
-
-
When the guitar is not subjected to smoke etc. it normally does not need a "treatment" , an occasional wipe-down with normal cleaner will be just fine. The ebony or rosewood fingerboard/pickguard wants a cleaning + few drops of lemon oil every few months. I use a special wax that was recommended from an antiques specialist and seal the wooden pickguard/tailpiece on my own Trenier Jazz Special with this product. > Renaissance / Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. PICREATOR ENTERPRISES LTD – Manufacturers of Products for Fine-Art Restoration & Conservation
This guitar is 5 years old now and I use it extensively and the finish on the bass side/lower bout shows a slight dulling from the constant contact with my underarm. I guess I could polish this out with some compound and a sheepwool disk but since the guitar has a blonde finish these dull(ish) spots don't show much so I leave it alone.
-
When I had black gunk build up on lacquer I would use lighter fluid to remove it. Like a bottle of ronsonol.
Otherwise guitar polishes are a rip off and I just cut murphy's oil soap down with water in a spray bottle. A jug of Murphy's will take you a long way for a helluva lot cheaper than pricey "guitar polish".
I lemon oil the board maybe once a year. No need to overdo it. When I had a dried out looking rosewood board I would give it a little extra love and work it in a little more maybe a few times a year until it stopped looking like it had been stored in a shed out in the desert. Normally I just shoot the board down with the Murphy's and wipe it clean.
-
I’d stick with Virtuoso Polish for my Trenier!
-
Bro, we have similar tastes. I have a '77 L5-C and a couple of Treniers.
I also have a '46 L-5 that is in as good of shape as any that you see. My rule: don't do anything unless you have too. I leave at least two guitars out on stands all the time, and I play them. Don't baby them. A feather duster is all you need most of the time. Avoid even the slightest abrasive, imagine that your guitar will live longer than you.
And play with love.
-
Virtuoso cleaner and polish and Dunlop 65 are what I use to clean the wood and condition the rosewood fretboards (I do not use any oil on Ebony boards).
For polishing my frets and pickup covers (nickel only), I use Flitz.
-
A single drop of boiled linseed oil on a clean dry rag is what I used to clean and buffing and entire rosewood fingerboard; then I wipe it off as much as possible. Mineral oil would also work, non-boiled linseed oil, etc. Historically, most lemon oils have no lemon in them at all, just some chemicals to make it smell that way. Given that lemon oils can be used as a degreaser, I probably wouldn't put it on a guitar.
I have Murphy's oil soap, which I use for my wooden floors in my house; never occurred to me to use it as a cleaner for guitars. Generally speaking, though, I use nothing but a very soft cloth like flannel and just a little bit of water to clean the body of the guitar.
-
Someone gave me a bottle of Dr Ducks Axe Wax many years ago when it came out, I think it's basically mineral oil.
I use it on fingerboards exclusively maybe once every few yrs. Usually natural oils from fingers are enough unless a board is in a dry environment. If it gets a little cruddy looking it gets cleaned w some 0000 steel wool which polishes the frets at the same time (making sure to cover the pickups w a rag, you don't want steel shards getting in and possibly shorting them)
Then a couple drops of Ducks on a cloth to condition the wood and buff before a fresh set of strings.
Some people like their guitars whistle clean and shiny but I don't use cleaners much anymore, maybe just some warm breath followed by a light buff w a clean cloth once in awhile. Some patina is fine w me.
-
As an aside, the least dry fingerboard I've ever seen was on Jonathan Kreisberg's ES-175, when I saw him 6 years ago. About every other song, he would apply what appeared to be mineral oil to his index finger; the fingerboard was downright shiny with oil. I've never quite seen anything like it.
-
You are making me feel fortunate.
I've kept my Strat happy 36 years
with Armor All, WD-40, ChapStick,
and a cut pile wool carpet sample.
Carry on...
-
Music Nomad F-One Oil darkens the fretboard and works a treat.
Some New John Gray
Today, 05:53 PM in The Players