Glue for Classical Guitar Bridge Repair

[EarlBrother]

I have a 6/1967 Giannini Tur. 4 model #33320 from a thrift store for $10.the bridge came off was wondering what glue i could use and also one machine head is bent.So i either tale it off and try to straighten it or get a set.Its a fun project plus it sounded nice before hand so i dont mind putting (some) $$ into it.Thanks! Also not the best researcher so if you know of a site that would know about this guitar would be greatly appreciated!

[Jimmy blue note]

Those were nice guitars, from Brazil, right? Make sure the glue join is really clean of any gunk and old glue. Long throat clamps are really useful (a reason to take this to a luthier?) and I like to use hide glue on a bridge because it has less of a tendency to 'creep' than white glue or yellow glue.
Clean it out, check the edges especially for any material that can interfere with a perfect fit. Dry fit it, make sure the edges line up (sometimes a caul, block or something can assure there's no shifting once the glue is applied), apply the glue so there's contact on both surfaces, move it around a little to assure the glue is worked in, clamp it solidly.
I check the edges once the glue starts to set up just because any excess slop is easier to remove at that stage.
Good luck and many years of making music to you!

Oh, make sure the top hasn't bellied up or pulled out over time. If it has, save yourself the trouble, you have larger problems to deal with.

[deacon Mark]

Good advice from Jimmy and I personally use Titebond glue. For me it allows a longer working time to get everything in place. Cannot say which is better just whatever the luthier likes to use.

[EarlBrother]

Yes Brazil.My wife and were at a thrift store a few years back and she showed me this i strummed it she said buy it its got a nice sound.BIG thanks to yo you all!!!!

[Freeman Keller]

The best glue and probably the one that was originally used would be hot hide glue (NOT the liquid Franklin stuff). The bridge would have been glued on before the top was finished, most classicals have finish applied over the top of the bridge. However this is not the time to try to learn how to use hot hide - it has a very short working time and everything needs to be perfect before you start and during the process. For these reasons the best glue for an inexperienced person would be an AR type - Titebond original or the LMII yellow glue.

You should make a clamping caul for the inside that spans the fan braces and carefully locate the bridge on the top. Several deep specialized clamps should be used. Clean off every bit of the old glue from both the top and bridge, after the glue has dried the finish can be repaired (probably shellac, possibly lacquer)



Congratulations on your find.

[EarlBrother]

ok looking at the bigger picture i will get an estimate at my luthiers first.

[Jimmy blue note]

Good advice from Jimmy and I personally use Titebond glue. For me it allows a longer working time to get everything in place. Cannot say which is better just whatever the luthier likes to use.

Titebond is the industry standard and the millions of solid flattops is a testimonial to its effectiveness. A question deacon Mark, do you have any opinions as far as the reversibility and cleaning of old glue joins? I've found hot hide glue joins to be easier to remove and marginally better for shear force applications. Just curious. So many informed perspectives and experiences around here.

[EarlBrother]

Trying to post a photo but all of sudden i need to buy something to allow me to do any thing with all my photos something called hevc cause my photos/videos are now heic .

[deacon Mark]

Titebond is the industry standard and the millions of solid flattops is a testimonial to its effectiveness. A question deacon Mark, do you have any opinions as far as the reversibility and cleaning of old glue joins? I've found hot hide glue joins to be easier to remove and marginally better for shear force applications. Just curious. So many informed perspectives and experiences around here.

Bill Barker and Bill Hollenbeck always used Titebond and so I am familiar with it by far. I actually find Titebond holds up better over the years despite it creeps a bit more and has less initial tack. Also, I am a conservative when it comes to working time and hide glue is not forgiving in that respect you have to nail it perfect. It also requires a pot and generally more prep. I find hide glue is simply not worth the effort. When I do a neck reset ideally the glue just keeps everything in place, and if I have my joint right, the guitar should not need any glue to string and play. Titebond allows the a much better margin for working.

Glue.........we could go on an on about for sure. What I want know is how some manage to get plastic binding back on vintage guitars without damaging the finish and keeping things original. I would love to know what Cris Mirabella is doing to get those Daquisto rebinds coming out perfect. That is talent.