The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    I have a red L4 with sweat strains from my right arm resting on the top. I can't get the top completely clean on this area. Rich Severson suggested I use Meguiar's A1216 Car Cleaner Wax but it doesn't get this film off. Someone told me Lemon Oil and other said lighter fluid. Please chime in.

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  3. #2

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    I use a product called T Cut, a mild abrasive polish used for cars. It's a UK product ( I think) , but there will be US equivalents. It should remove any sweat or dirt that has not penetrated the finish. NB Do NOT use this product if you have any crazing or cracks in the lacquer, though - if it gets into a crack, it will dry white. Otherwise, it's safe with a nitro finish, if used gently.

    I'd avoid lighter fluid and Lemon oil, or any kind of wax or oil. There are specialist guitar polishes but I have no experience with them. No doubt someone will chime in.

  4. #3

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  5. #4

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    I already used the Car Cleaner Wax. Maybe there was a crack but I couldn't see any cracks when I used the Cleaner. I do have a faint white film like thing happening on my top.

  6. #5

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    Nathan (lighter fluid) is pretty safe on nitro, try a small non visible area to make sure.
    But I'd probably start w Virtuoso polish and progress to their cleaner if you don't get the desired result .
    If still not what you're looking for I'd try naphtha.

  7. #6

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    A while back I watched Michael Watts's video on nail care for acoustic guitar players, and bought one of these big eraser-like nail buffing sponges. Turns out using it on my nails is pointless (but now I know I too can get them to a nice high-polish sheen) but the finest side (which runs full-length) works great for removing films off the nitro finish of my archtop. Including those left behind by the 3 different instrument polishing/cleaning liquids I have. It still won't get the microscratches out of the finish, meaning it only takes off very tiny amounts of finish.

  8. #7

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    Hi, E,
    Have you tried something as simple as distilled water with a miracle cloth? At the end of every playing session, I wipe my neck and areas on the upper bout to remove any sweat residue. Ergo, no build-up is possible. Eventually, it will eat into the finish of the instrument and erode the lacquer. Some people like that look . . . I don't.
    Marinero

    P.S. In a worst-case scenario, try a test spot with some Mineral Spirits on a miracle cloth. It should not damage the finish. I've used it on a guitar I'm rebuilding, at present, with good results. M

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    the finest side (which runs full-length) works great for removing films off the nitro finish of my archtop.
    Unfortunately, it also removes some of the lacquer if what looks like a surface film has penetrated the resin. I don’t know how thick the finish is on that 175, but I’d be very hesitant to use any abrasive more coarse than T-cut. Even that could thin or roughen the finish enough to leave the area visibly different in reflectivity, depth of color, etc.

    Naptha is a great solvent for many contaminants. If it doesn’t work, I’ve lucked out using a very light wipe of a fine cotton or microfiber cloth with a drop of GooGone - but I wouldn’t have tried that on a guitar as good as a 175. Another trick I’ve gotten away with is lightly rubbing the affected area with a damp Mr Clean Magic Eraser. But if the discoloration isn’t too bad and you can’t get it off with naptha or one of the good cleaners like the Virtuoso system, you have to decide if it’s bad enough to run the risk of making it worse……and if you can live with having made it worse.

    One classic example of how it could be worse is to get the area clean but leave it less glossy or otherwise just looking different from the rest of the guitar.

    If the answer to either of those questions is no, I’d leave it alone or take it to a good luthier. You can only do so much by yourself.

  10. #9

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    Thank you, I just sick about this. I've only had this 96 L4 since May. I had not played out with it very much when I noticed the smudges on this Red finish. I have a few suggestions now so I'll have to look into these. Thanks to everyone who responded.

    Eddie

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by nevershouldhavesoldit
    Unfortunately, it also removes some of the lacquer if what looks like a surface film has penetrated the resin.
    True. But in that case a solvent is also not going to be able to do much, would it?

    If the answer to either of those questions is no, I’d leave it alone or take it to a good luthier. You can only do so much by yourself.
    +++
    My archtop has a spot just south of the fingerrest brace where someone apparently spilled a drop of superglue and then tried to scrape it off. Best I've been able to do is to polish it down a bit, and give it as much a high-gloss appearance as possible to make it as little conspicuous as possible. There's probably nothing else to do about it than having a pro remove it and then fix the inevitable damage to the finish. Instead I just accept this as part of the guitar's history. Doing that would come naturally for finish wear in places where I always hold the guitar. I presume I'd have the same reaction to discolouration due to transpiration or due to elbow grease

  12. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ed Davis
    Thank you, I just sick about this. I've only had this 96 L4 since May. I had not played out with it very much when I noticed the smudges on this Red finish. I have a few suggestions now so I'll have to look into these. Thanks to everyone who responded.

    Eddie
    Be careful, Eddie. We’ve all been there, and it does hurt every time you look at it. But it’s much better to have the patina of use than the scars of abuse

  13. #12

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    Acetone dissolves cyanoacrylate. Unfortunately, it also dissolves nitrocellulose.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by sgosnell
    Acetone dissolves cyanoacrylate. Unfortunately, it also dissolves nitrocellulose.
    Exactly...

  15. #14

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    Eddie Davis,
    I’d be more concerned that the sweat has already damaged the nitro. If you are lucky and it hasn’t, then take it to a luthier who has a red wheel. That will polish it right out. If you have access to a dual action polisher, and you know how to use it, get yourself a lake country WHITE pad and get some Meguires 105 compound. The meguires 105 has a non diminishing ultra fine abrasive that will remove the garbage that’s on the paint, but it will continue to cut and it WILL burn through the finish if you get the surface too hot. Start out with the DA polisher on about 4 for about 10-15 seconds and then spray the surface with a spray detailer (lubricant) and jewel the product in the surface with the DA polisher at a speed of 6 for another 10 seconds. The abrasive in the 105 polish is really fine and This is good enough as a finishing polish. Then use virtuoso cleaner, then use virtuoso polish to seal it.
    Wipe down your baby Everytime you play it! An L4CES deserves it.
    Joe D
    Last edited by Max405; 07-04-2022 at 12:25 PM.

  16. #15

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    Thank you. I will show this to my luthier.

    Eddie

  17. #16

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    I would try this . I’ve used it on my guitars and works really well.

    About our Products - The Virtuoso Group, Inc.

  18. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by fasteddie
    I would try this . I’ve used it on my guitars and works really well.

    About our Products - The Virtuoso Group, Inc.
    I have also used this product. It actually works very well. Great recommendation. It will take more than one pass with a cloth for total clarity.