The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    I want to add a Lollar Johnny Smith mini humbucker to an acoustic 2001 L5 CT. Not keen on drilling holes into the neck so I plan to get a pickguard mounted model. I've measured under the strings and there is plenty of room. The question is whether to order it wired with the output jack to be mounted underneath the pickguard, or wired to an output jack installed in the body of the guitar. I've never had a guitar with the output jack on the pickguard, and am curious if you think having the amp cord dangling from the pickguard is such a PITA that it isn't worth it. If so, I would look to convert the tail piece to accept an output jack, if that is even possible, as I don't want to drill an output jack hole in the rim of the guitar. Is that possible/advisable?

    Thanks for any suggestions!

    Len

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2
    Thanks. What kind of end pin jack do you recommend?

  4. #3

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    I also prefer an endpin jack. I’ve never used one of these, but they are interesting.

    Tapastring Guitar Care Products | The "Vintage Jack" | End Pin Jack No Drilling Required

  5. #4
    I removed the strap button from the tail piece and there is a 3/8" diameter hole in the tail piece. Is that a standard size that can accept an end pin jack for a 1/4" cable? If so, I would not have to modify the tail piece.

    Also, on the inside of the body, glued in front of where the jack hole would be, is a wood block that is at least 1/2 to 5/8" thick. So the output jack would need to be at least 3/4" to 1" long to make it through the tail piece, rim and block. Most of the jacks I see on Stew Mac are not long enough.

    Thanks.

  6. #5

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    This is the one, comes in gold. Will work in either position. In stock at Stewmac:
    Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack - StewMac
    Attached Images Attached Images Adding A Floating Pickup - Advice Needed-fishman-jack-png 

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by ThatRhythmMan
    I also prefer an endpin jack. I’ve never used one of these, but they are interesting.

    Tapastring Guitar Care Products | The "Vintage Jack" | End Pin Jack No Drilling Required
    I installed these in four of my Martins – a prototype of an OM-45, a 175th Anniversary America's Guitar (basically a D-28 Marquis Madagascar with koa binding), a D-18A 1937, and my D-28 A 1931. I just don't like the look of those 1/4" endpins on an acoustic flat top.

    It requires a 1/8"-to-1/4" pigtail adapter to attach a normal guitar cable, and I had guitar straps that were able to incorporate those pigtails to keep them from dangling from the endpin. I have had a lively debate with another member of the UMGF about the reliability of these: he has had friends who he says found them unreliable, but in 14 years of gigging with them I've never had a problem.

    The advantage in your situation, Len, is that it doesn't need to have a threaded nut on the end; it installs as a regular endpin does, with friction (with resin, if needed). I wouldn't be surprised, though, if that 1/8"-to-1/4" adapter is a no-go for you.

  8. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ukena
    It requires a 1/8"-to-1/4" pigtail adapter to attach a normal guitar cable
    Or you replace the 1/4" TS on your cable with the appropriate 1/8" jack?!

  9. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Hammertone
    This is the one, comes in gold. Will work in either position. In stock at Stewmac:
    Fishman Switchjack Endpin Jack - StewMac
    Thanks, I saw that. Looks like the standard is a 1/2" diameter hole, so I would have to enlarge the opening in the tail piece. Not a big deal, I have the equipment for it.

    The question is whether I want to drill a 1/2" hole through that thick end block on the inside.

    Hoping some others with experience will weigh in.

    Len

  10. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Ukena
    I installed these in four of my Martins – a prototype of an OM-45, a 175th Anniversary America's Guitar (basically a D-28 Marquis Madagascar with koa binding), a D-18A 1937, and my D-28 A 1931. I just don't like the look of those 1/4" endpins on an acoustic flat top.

    It requires a 1/8"-to-1/4" pigtail adapter to attach a normal guitar cable, and I had guitar straps that were able to incorporate those pigtails to keep them from dangling from the endpin. I have had a lively debate with another member of the UMGF about the reliability of these: he has had friends who he says found them unreliable, but in 14 years of gigging with them I've never had a problem.

    The advantage in your situation, Len, is that it doesn't need to have a threaded nut on the end; it installs as a regular endpin does, with friction (with resin, if needed). I wouldn't be surprised, though, if that 1/8"-to-1/4" adapter is a no-go for you.
    Thanks Paul. You guessed correctly, 1/8" jacks on a flat top look ok but I would not use one on an archtop.

  11. #10

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    The end block is certainly strong enough to accept the 1/2" hole. The hole in the tailpiece may need to be enlarged. Endpin jacks are common, and IMO the strongest method by far. There needs to be reinforcement in the rim if you put a jack there, and I think it's more trouble than installing an endpin jack. I've seen installations with the jack mounted under the pickguard, but I don't like it and wouldn't do it. The usual method of enlarging the hole for the jack is with a tapered reamer, but it's not the only way. The jack doesn't have to go all the way through the end block, but the hole has to go all the way through so the wire to the controls can go through. The volume and tone controls can go in the pickguard, in the top, or in the f hole, depending on your preferences and hardware. I like thumbwheel controls mounted in the treble f hole with mounting tape, because I don't like having a pickguard, but that's just my preference. The thumbwheels can go under the pickguard, or you can use mini pots through the pickguard, as you prefer.

  12. #11

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    I put an endpin jack in my ‘68 Gibson Johnny Smith with no issues at all. I would definitely recommend using a reamer. StewMac even has one with a taper optimized for this job if you want that. I just used a standard one I picked up locally that has a faster taper and it worked beautifully.

  13. #12

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    You know what I am going to say: if you value the resale value of your Gibson L5 CT, don't drill a hole for that dumbfuk endpin jack, destroyer of nice guitars for questionable installation of piezos and other shit-sounding transducers.

    Get a 3rd party pickguard and mount the endpin jack to that. You will soon develop your own way of handling a guitar with a pickguard-mounted jack. Mount the endpin jack on the top of the pickguard. Hotglue and then cable-tie it. It won't look pretty but it is for strict function. Many of the problems come from jacks mounted underneath the pickguard. Save the Gibson pickguard. When it comes time to sell it on, remove everything, put the Gibson pickguard back on and none will be the wiser.

    Invasive modifications destroy resale value. Try the non-invasive approach first and see how you get on before blithely drilling a half-inch hole in that Gibson L5 tailpiece and endblock.

    You don't care about resale value until the day you do...

  14. #13

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    Or get a (reissue) "monkey on a stick" with the "control box". It must be possible to get that to work with other PUs than the DeArmonds, I'd guess? It has the added advantage that you can take the entire rig off when you want to play acoustically (I presume that's one would buy an acoustic-only recent L5?!)

    (We're talking about this model I suppose?)

  15. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
    You know what I am going to say: if you value the resale value of your Gibson L5 CT, don't drill a hole for that dumbfuk endpin jack, destroyer of nice guitars for questionable installation of piezos and other shit-sounding transducers.

    Get a 3rd party pickguard and mount the endpin jack to that. You will soon develop your own way of handling a guitar with a pickguard-mounted jack. Mount the endpin jack on the top of the pickguard. Hotglue and then cable-tie it. It won't look pretty but it is for strict function. Many of the problems come from jacks mounted underneath the pickguard. Save the Gibson pickguard. When it comes time to sell it on, remove everything, put the Gibson pickguard back on and none will be the wiser.

    Invasive modifications destroy resale value. Try the non-invasive approach first and see how you get on before blithely drilling a half-inch hole in that Gibson L5 tailpiece and endblock.

    You don't care about resale value until the day you do...
    Well Jabs, I think your advice is sound, except I am going to mount the jack under the pickguard. Drilling holes in this guitar makes me a bit queasy.

    Thanks!

  16. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    Or get a (reissue) "monkey on a stick" with the "control box". It must be possible to get that to work with other PUs than the DeArmonds, I'd guess? It has the added advantage that you can take the entire rig off when you want to play acoustically (I presume that's one would buy an acoustic-only recent L5?!)

    (We're talking about this model I suppose?)
    It certainly looks like it, but mine was custom ordered by Tom Van Hoose, who I believed owned it until putting up for consignment at Norman's Rare Guitars, where I bought it recently. It is also Hutch signed. Tom told me he asked Gibson to replicate the one used by George Gobel. Tom said a friend of his asked Gibson to make the same thing for him, which they did; Tom said he tried it and did not think it was nearly as good as the one made for him. I'm guessing the one in the Wexer listing is the one made for Tom's friend.

    I will post some photos in a separate thread, it really is gorgeous.

    Len

  17. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jabberwocky
    You know what I am going to say: if you value the resale value of your Gibson L5 CT, don't drill a hole for that dumbfuk endpin jack, destroyer of nice guitars for questionable installation of piezos and other shit-sounding transducers.

    Get a 3rd party pickguard and mount the endpin jack to that. You will soon develop your own way of handling a guitar with a pickguard-mounted jack. Mount the endpin jack on the top of the pickguard. Hotglue and then cable-tie it. It won't look pretty but it is for strict function. Many of the problems come from jacks mounted underneath the pickguard. Save the Gibson pickguard. When it comes time to sell it on, remove everything, put the Gibson pickguard back on and none will be the wiser.

    Invasive modifications destroy resale value. Try the non-invasive approach first and see how you get on before blithely drilling a half-inch hole in that Gibson L5 tailpiece and endblock.

    You don't care about resale value until the day you do...
    This is one time (it doesn’t happen often) that I will partially disagree with Jabs. In this case his opinion may apply, but unless we are talking about a truly collectible guitar in collectible condition, I don’t think adding an endpin jack to a guitar with no jack will devalue it at all. In the case of my GJS which has many, many miles on it, it makes the guitar far easier to use plugged in than if had used any sort of a pickguard mounted jack. This mod is almost completely unnoticeable, other than the fact that it’s a jack in place of the usual endpin. No alteration of the pickguard was needed. Lastly, it avoids the potential pitfalls of a side mounted jack, being far more stable. For what it’s worth, I do see a side mounted jack in a guitar that didn’t start out with one as causing some loss in value.

  18. #17

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    +1 on the Tapastring Vintage Jack. I installed one in my 1944 L7 when I added a DeArmond reissue floater. I just deal with the little pigtail adapter. Minor nuisance. Works fine so far.

  19. #18
    Have decided to go with a pickguard mounted output jack. Just ordered a Lollar mini Johnny Smith pickup. I am going to make a replacement pickguard, but need advice on what to get for a volume and/or tone pot, and how to wire them. Lollar recommends a 500k pot, not that I even know what that means, have much to learn. Can you point me to some on line videos where I can learn what and how to do this? Thanks!

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Len R
    Have decided to go with a pickguard mounted output jack. Just ordered a Lollar mini Johnny Smith pickup. I am going to make a replacement pickguard, but need advice on what to get for a volume and/or tone pot, and how to wire them. Lollar recommends a 500k pot, not that I even know what that means, have much to learn. Can you point me to some on line videos where I can learn what and how to do this? Thanks!
    Search for "guitar wiring single pickup diagrams" and there will be heaps of images of how to wire it up.

    e.g. Guitar Wiring 102 | Cigar box guitar, Guitar diy, Guitar pickups