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  1. #1

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    So it looks like I’m going to get a few pieces of old mahogany to glue together to make a hollow body.
    Planning on having a top plate of 4mm and sides of 7mm with the bottom also 4mm except for the part I will bolt the neck onto, a 10mm ‘vertebrae’ to the bridge support and maybe a few ‘braces’. Bottom section to be milled out with a CNC router and the top to be laser cut.
    For the bridge i intend to use tuneomatic rollers, then feed strings through body, have the milling so that the bridge support will have strings through it.
    Main questions are, are these thicknesses good and are there other possible issues with this approach?


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  3. #2

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    Good luck!

  4. #3

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    You want to run strings through the hollow body like a telecaster?

  5. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanAllen
    You want to run strings through the hollow body like a telecaster?
    Yes! I figured as long as the stud that’s anyhow there for most thin hollow bodies it wouldn’t create more forces on sensitive spots! And the acoustic sound should still be plenty for practice. (Key reasons I luurrvv the es235 shape and size and my PRS Zach Meyers is too quiet to practice without amp, especially the bass E of course)


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  6. #5

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    Is the es235 akin to the Casino Coupe? A smaller body? It looks really cool. I hope you'll post a build thread.

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanAllen
    Is the es235 akin to the Casino Coupe? A smaller body? It looks really cool. I hope you'll post a build thread.
    The es235 is to the es135 what the casino coupe (es339) is to the casino(es335). I played a Coupe in the shop acoustically-it’s hollow- and it sounded awful. I played the es235 -semi hollow- and it was just a loud as the coupe but a decent sound. The 235’s center block has a lot cut out of it and it’s 3 ply, maple poplar maple. I think the coupe is 5 ply maple or crap.
    I didn’t get the mahogany in the end, will be some time till I get a piece but I will post on progress once there is something happening.


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  8. #7

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    Today I got my neck. From KMise, a Chinese supplier. Looks good, taken most of their cues from PRS. Mirrored the headstock and dots instead of birds.
    Now what stain or varnish to use to keep it ‘slippery’.



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  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eck
    Yes! I figured as long as the stud that’s anyhow there for most thin hollow bodies it wouldn’t create more forces on sensitive spots! And the acoustic sound should still be plenty for practice. (Key reasons I luurrvv the es235 shape and size and my PRS Zach Meyers is too quiet to practice without amp, especially the bass E of course)


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    I once bought a beat up 73 X500 that sounded phenomenal. The bridge had been screwed to the top. There is a really nice tone and some pleasant sustain you can get this way that really opens up a hollow body.
    Your idea should have a similar result although worried about the compression/tension on the top plate without the right bracing.

    That neck looks scarf joint quarter sawn?

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by ArchtopHeaven
    I once bought a beat up 73 X500 that sounded phenomenal. The bridge had been screwed to the top. There is a really nice tone and some pleasant sustain you can get this way that really opens up a hollow body.
    Your idea should have a similar result although worried about the compression/tension on the top plate without the right bracing.

    That neck looks scarf joint quarter sawn?
    Indeed quarter sawn, scarf joint. Standard 20mm deep for bolt on. I don’t think glued in improves the sound, and for a first build I better bolt on. I am also worried about the top plate but I have an edge. The body will be milled and I’m leaving a u-shaped ‘stand’ and an 13mm (1/2”) ‘block’ up to the the neck connection.
    More weird ideas last night, a Tele bridge+pickup and a noiseless p90 at the neck.
    (I’m also getting a 24 3/4 neck with 4 degrees angle, I plan a similar body but arch top bridge - still doubting over wood or steel rollers at the top - and only a bridge pickup. P90 but adding a varitone.
    First wait till it’s cooked down in tropical Australia, a few weeks.


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  11. #10

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    After months of procrastination and deliberation I decided to get some ‘local’ wood, although it’s from the other side of Australia (driving distance 6500 km or 4000 miles). It’s called jarrah, a reddish tinted eucalyptus that’s better workable than some of the real hard ones they use for decking. We used to live in Broome and most kitchen cabinets were jarrah with perforated steel panels to let air and some light in. Probably the most beautiful wood I know.
    Found out width and thickness mean laminating and no bookending. The joiner picked them well.
    Package to be picked up tomorrow, arriving in two weeks. Less time than I have to decide whether to laser cut a few templates. Actually I must do that.
    There the bases 40mm thick and tops 6mm thick. Should I brace a 6mm too??


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  12. #11

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    Super curious to see what you end up doing. Are you following any plans for an es235?


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  13. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by rlrhett
    Super curious to see what you end up doing. Are you following any plans for an es235?


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    I’ve tried to get close to it. Traced an image from web and made a dwg (autocad/draftsight) to fit.
    A few changes: first has 25.5 neck with a p90 neck and Telecaster bridge pickup with appropriate support under that big mf bridge and a flat top. Second hopefully with ‘34 bulge, trapeze bridge with small support and only a neck p90.
    Both probably end up at 45mm thick where es325 is about 40. So I wonder how much of the sexiness of a 235 will be left…


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