Here we go again..

[sbeishline]

Here are some pics from next session following my last post:

[sbeishline]

Current progress:



In some better light to appreciate the contour work needed:

[citizenk74]

So very nice! Keep up the good work!

[sbeishline]

So very nice! Keep up the good work!

Thx CK!

[sbeishline]

Planning for hole drilling:



Traced outside of shell, inside of kerfing, 1/4” washer for buffer, and 1/8” free handed transition zone for carving ..

[sbeishline]

Did a little more with the RO sander at the shop:

[sbeishline]

Refreshed myself with the Benedetto measurements and marked out the thickness for X-bracing:


Then realized it’s the back, not the top plate, so it should prolly get to 3/16”:


Drill press set up using 1/4” setup block:


End product/current status:

[Eck]

Wow! So many things to take care of. My top is 6mm Jarrah wood, and there’s a big bridge support. Would you think I can do without bracing?


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[sbeishline]

Wow! So many things to take care of. My top is 6mm Jarrah wood, and there’s a big bridge support. Would you think I can do without bracing?


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For sure.

What type of guitar? From what I gathered about Jarrah is that it would work for a solid body or sides/back on an acoustic. Reads as though it’s a very dense wood, so I’m not sure how great it would vibrate to resonate sound as an archtop, esp if it’s thick. Hard to say if it would work without bracing…

If you’ve got the supplies, time/patience, etc, there’s only one way to find out! - maybe do a fun little experiment?

[Eck]

I will tap and listen etc etc. Not sure how to tackle it yet. First guitar is not critical in hollow sound so that will be a bit of a test.


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[sbeishline]

Went to the shop night before last and started the wood removal on the inside of the backplate.

Here’s my setup with back clamped in the caul. I cut some blocks to allow the clamps to screw down tight. I started with a 40grit flap disc on my angle grinder.


After 40grit before changing to 60grit:


Post-60grit and current status awaiting hand plane.

[rlrhett]

Yep, flap sander wheel is the way to go with the bulk of material removal. Before I built my CNC (and spent hundreds of hours learning how to use the stupid thing!) the flap sanding wheel was my best friend. To those woodworkers with the skills to use a gouge, tip of the hat to you. I’m in the “more power” camp.


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[sbeishline]

Yep, flap sander wheel is the way to go with the bulk of material removal. Before I built my CNC (and spent hundreds of hours learning how to use the stupid thing!) the flap sanding wheel was my best friend. To those woodworkers with the skills to use a gouge, tip of the hat to you. I’m in the “more power” camp.


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I hear you. I can see using a chisel gouge for carving the spruce top because it's nice and light, and cuts through smooth. Hard maple, tho..... fageddaboutit. I'm swiping the power card on that one.

[JohanAbrandt]

Yep, flap sander wheel is the way to go with the bulk of material removal. Before I built my CNC (and spent hundreds of hours learning how to use the stupid thing!) the flap sanding wheel was my best friend. To those woodworkers with the skills to use a gouge, tip of the hat to you. I’m in the “more power” camp.


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It all begins with the skill to sharpen it =)

[sbeishline]

Here’s some shots of my current progress. I used the D’A hand plane until just about all the drill marks vanished and switched to 100grit on the RO sander.





Averaging 1/4” thickness on the caliper all around the plate (little thicker in some areas. Shadows also show it needs some finesse. Will work with hand plane and sander to get down closer to 3/16”.

[sbeishline]

Here's where she stands currently:



I think it'll probably be fastest to use the D'A plane to get closer to size as opposed to scraping at this point.

[sbeishline]

Following the first session of planing with the Stanley Block plane:


Following the second session of planing using the flat LN 101 and curved-sole D'A planes:

[sbeishline]

Current status after hitting it with the RO sander with 100grit:


Here you can see some remnant paths of Mother Nature's beasts in close-up that will likely remain as blemishes on this axe. I can't really risk trying to sand these out as it'll likely get too thin. I saw a cool series of images on Dan Koenntop's Intstagram page on how he cut one of these marks out and glued in a patch, but this piece of wood has too many to try and do that, me thinks. Being a tree from my childhood home, I don't really care too much that this won't be "perfect."


Next up, I'll drill the holes on the inside of the plate to get us great than 1/4", remove the bulk, and carve that down like the back. Being that this will be X-braced, the top thickness will be thicker than with parallel bracing I did on the last one.

[JohanAbrandt]

I made a guitar body from beech a few years ago, found some worm holes that I filled with glue and dust. Half way through finishing I got a new hole, at least one of the little creatures was still in there

Not a happy moment…

[RJVB]

I made a guitar body from beech a few years ago, found some worm holes that I filled with glue and dust. Half way through finishing I got a new hole, at least one of the little creatures was still in there

I've seen many a violin decorated with borer arabesques. The dislike the finish (including the one that's on the inside, apparently), but they do have a taste for the wood between those layers. My builder told me he's seen instruments where nothing was left under the finish in places.

If you find borer holes in a piece of wood you're working on it's probably best to treat it with something like xylophene at once, when you still have material to remove.

[Sam Sherry]

Dan Koenntop . . . cut one of these marks out and glued in a patch, but Being a tree from my childhood home, I don't really care too much that this won't be "perfect."

I was thinking about posting, 'Gee, you'll be left with some big knots -- is it worth starting over considering all the work you're doing' but there's the answer.

The wood has 'alternative positive values.'

[sbeishline]

I've seen many a violin decorated with borer arabesques. The dislike the finish (including the one that's on the inside, apparently), but they do have a taste for the wood between those layers. My builder told me he's seen instruments where nothing was left under the finish in places.

If you find borer holes in a piece of wood you're working on it's probably best to treat it with something like xylophene at once, when you still have material to remove.

Hey thanks! I didn't even think that the process may still be on going. Is there a liquid I can use to "fumigate" it, if I seal it in plastic so I don't have to saturate the wood itself?

[RJVB]

I made a guitar body from beech a few years ago

Beech, or birch? I know the latter can be really nice as a tonewood, never heard about the former being used in that context - and I often confound the two myself...

Hey thanks! I didn't even think that the process may still be on going. Is there a liquid I can use to "fumigate" it, if I seal it in plastic so I don't have to saturate the wood itself?

I mentioned xylphene; we treat just about any kind of wood object (not instruments) of unsure provenance with that. You apply it lavishly with a brush and then let the object in a well-ventilated place for a certain time. Apply a 2nd time for thicker objects. Sealing in plastic would make it more effective I suppose. I don't know exactly how wood occupants are killed by it, but it seems to work. It darkens the wood a little bit but doesn't penetrate very deep (not more than standard wood stain I'd say).
I see that's apparently a brand name for the French market - https://www.xylophene.fr/ - Xylophene | Lacrilar . I have to assume it is available elsewhere too, under different names.
I know there are also products you apply directly into the holes you find, via syringes. In fact, I'm pretty certain that even nitrocellulose laquer diluted with the appropriate thinner will be lethal for any insect larva living off your wood, but with this kind of DIY solution you'll probably want to make sure you've flooded the entire gallery system.

[Eck]

Over in Holland we successfully treated borers with petrol(gasoline). A lot and a total success. It’s quite easy to see that the gas penetrates if put it on one side and see the other get wer


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[RJVB]

Would lighter fluid (naphta) work too? Should be cheaper I think (not going to pay the government any more taxes than I need to )