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  1. #26

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    Forgot to mention, I also domino'd the cauls last time:
    Here we go again..-cauls-dominoed-jpg

    Today I cut the sides to width and close to final thickness:
    Here we go again..-almost-final-side-2-jpgHere we go again..-almost-final-side-1-jpg

    They're approximately the length, but cut a bit long to ensure I ain't short:
    Here we go again..-almost-final-side-3-jpg

    Cut a rough corner block for the Florentine cutaway:
    Here we go again..-corner-block-jpg

    Also decided to file and epoxy a wedge to better align the neck block with the centerline:
    Here we go again..-caul-revision-1-jpgHere we go again..-caul-revision-2-jpg

    Whenever next time is, I'll plan to drum sand the sides to thickness, finalize the neck and tail block widths, and maybe start some side bending!

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  3. #27

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    Went into shop on Sat for an hour or two. First, I finalized refining the caul sliver by filing it to my liking necessary to align the neck block:
    Here we go again..-caulmodbig-jpg

    Here's the neck block aligned with centerline at tail block:
    Here we go again..-neckblockstraight-jpg

    Here's the overall improvement:
    Here we go again..-caulbig-jpg

  4. #28

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    Finished thicknessing the 3 side pieces to 3/32":
    Here we go again..-sidethickness-jpg

    Then rounded off the edges of the blocks on the router table...
    Neck block:
    Here we go again..-neckblockrouted-jpg

    Tail block:
    Here we go again..-tailblockrouted-jpg

    All the basic shell pieces (also seen is the Florentine cutaway cornerblock):
    Here we go again..-shellparts-jpg

    Sneak peek views of the kerfing with the side:
    Here we go again..-sideskerf2-jpg
    Here we go again..-sidekerf-jpg

    Next stop bending town..

  5. #29

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    Nice work! Well done!

  6. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by citizenk74
    Nice work! Well done!
    Thank you, CK!

  7. #31

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    Friday I got to the shop and was started with bending the sides. I started with the short cutaway side:
    Here we go again..-shortcutside-jpg

    Close-up from the side:
    Here we go again..-shortcutsideclose-jpg

    Then I bent the long non-cutaway side:
    Here we go again..-shortcutandncsides-jpg

    Here's a bird's eye (PUN INTENDED) view of the corner block area:
    Here we go again..-shortcutsidetop-jpg

    Then came back the following day to do the long cutaway side:
    Here we go again..-longcutsidecb-jpg

    Here's all sides in the mold:
    Here we go again..-allsides-jpg

    I'm unsure how great the Florentine cutaway sides will join at the corner block, and I will likely trim the corner block to move further in to help remedy that. Anyhow, here's how it looks now (will have to do some fit sanding before the final glue up of course):
    Here we go again..-florentine-joint-jpg

    Fortunately, the binding should hide a lot of the imperfection from the joint of the cutaway.

  8. #32

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    Being that I changed the final side width to 2 1/8", I had to modify the height of the neck and tail blocks to 1/8" greater. Here they are finalized-

    Neck block:
    Here we go again..-tailblockfinal-jpg

    Tailblock:
    Here we go again..-neckblockfinal-jpg

    Here's the glue-up of the bird's eye maple back plate:
    Here we go again..-backplateglueup-jpg

  9. #33

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    Doing very very good!! Just one thing: the cutaway piece would be better off with another concave block for inward pressure. I read about chair making that the crucial moment for success was when it was bend with inward pressure, compressing, otherwise the wood would crack.


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  10. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbeishline
    Here’s a prelim tracing on the top plate:
    Attachment 87793
    Not much margin for error on the right side! I understand why, but I recall a video I watched recently featuring an archtop that had an asymmetric arch, probably shifted towards the treble side. May have been one of Ken Parker's. Anyway, it seems you could experiment with that, allowing you to centre the outline better on your piece of wood?

  11. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eck
    Doing very very good!! Just one thing: the cutaway piece would be better off with another concave block for inward pressure. I read about chair making that the crucial moment for success was when it was bend with inward pressure, compressing, otherwise the wood would crack.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Not following.. the concave block for inward pressure would go where?

  12. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJVB
    Not much margin for error on the right side! I understand why, but I recall a video I watched recently featuring an archtop that had an asymmetric arch, probably shifted towards the treble side. May have been one of Ken Parker's. Anyway, it seems you could experiment with that, allowing you to centre the outline better on your piece of wood?
    You’re right! Although, I made that outline with the photo paper, not necessarily the actually side shell. May be a tad narrower IRL? I’m gonna try to keep the center joint on center.. Either way, I’m sure it’ll be a tight one!

  13. #37

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    Attempted to refine the fit of the corner block - It’s painful to try to get perfect. Hopefully binding can help hide some of the ugliness.

    Back plate side:
    Here we go again..-f203bc37-bfef-4a41-b344-a5883de37235-jpg

    Top plate side:
    Here we go again..-72baed1b-7380-49fb-867c-cec58eac4961-jpg


  14. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbeishline
    Not following.. the concave block for inward pressure would go where?
    The side part of the cutaway has a tiny split. That section has the greatest bending forces on it. The best way -as you done most other sections with the template - is to push the wood inward from as many points as possible. Not to pull it around the shape.
    Hats off for your work!


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  15. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbeishline
    Attempted to refine the fit of the corner block - It’s painful to try to get perfect. Hopefully binding can help hide some of the ugliness.

    Back plate side:
    Here we go again..-f203bc37-bfef-4a41-b344-a5883de37235-jpg

    Top plate side:
    Here we go again..-72baed1b-7380-49fb-867c-cec58eac4961-jpg

    If you could make a 1.5mm steel plate fit exactly and copy it, you could then attach them to either side of the block and belt sand the whole block accordingly perhaps. Never done that myself though.
    (I’m going to get as much as I can laser cut and cnc milled… I’m naturally bad at joinery)


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  16. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eck
    The side part of the cutaway has a tiny split. That section has the greatest bending forces on it. The best way -as you done most other sections with the template - is to push the wood inward from as many points as possible. Not to pull it around the shape.
    Hats off for your work!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I gotcha now. Last time I used a metal bending strap, but it fell between cabinets and a wall, so I dunno if I’ll see it again any time soon! Haha

    Quote Originally Posted by Eck
    If you could make a 1.5mm steel plate fit exactly and copy it, you could then attach them to either side of the block and belt sand the whole block accordingly perhaps. Never done that myself though.
    (I’m going to get as much as I can laser cut and cnc milled… I’m naturally bad at joinery)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Gonna try to chalk fit it and work it slowly..

  17. #41

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    I’ve had a few shop trips since my last updates.

    After trying to free-hand fit the corner block on the belt sander, the block kept getting smaller with a poor fit until ended up cutting my loss (pun intended) and cut a new corner block. This one I used old school carbon paper to fit this using a file. Fit was much more acceptable:
    Here we go again..-af9ecc0f-4926-481b-99a4-f71d1495f7aa-jpeg
    Here we go again..-90c290a2-2a2d-4e48-834a-9d8cc214da8c-jpeg

    Then I held the sides in place and marked the non-cut side at the tail end butt joint with square, and cut it first (Japanese hand saw). Then cut the long cutaway side a tad long and fit it on the shooting board. Not sure why I took this pic?
    Here we go again..-31741025-f908-4fee-86d1-57f6d30c54b5-jpg

    I fit the tail block with sandpaper against the side and glued it:
    Here we go again..-0f87e31c-504c-4fd5-8b5a-a10eb51406c7-jpg

    Next day, I glued the corner block and let it go 24hr.

    Here it is clamped:
    Here we go again..-c580989a-6c94-4cc7-8230-6da5c1eef543-jpg

    Then removed the clamps and glued the neck block.

    Clamp setup:
    Here we go again..-661f93a0-cfb1-4443-8963-c45a660d020b-jpg

    Fromt view of fit:
    Here we go again..-dd3ff586-c620-47fa-88b4-7846febbe89c-jpg
    Back view of fit:
    Here we go again..-51391f68-f303-4054-bf86-a851c1a0d4a5-jpeg

  18. #42

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    Here’s the current state:
    Here we go again..-a186ec60-9ba9-4c37-a635-66a68c225530-jpg

    Certainly isn’t as pretty as the first. The tail block is off line ( I think evident that my mold isn’t totally symmetrical), but I don’t think that really matters.

    Back view over maple back plate blank:
    Here we go again..-9d87f177-dcb6-417f-9fcf-bde338acf2a9-jpg

    Good Florentine joint, but looks fairly ugly as expected. Hopefully binding will help hide some of that??

    Here we go again..-6af6e4cc-3989-4749-99aa-9cf6b8d4598c-jpegHere we go again..-88fd4488-3aa7-4383-8ddb-ca045d0b3d6f-jpg
    Here we go again..-0b64be64-f746-44e4-8f1c-7452b58fe06d-jpg

  19. #43

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    In 2 early morning shop sessions, I got the neck blank made up using my template from first guitar.

    Traced it onto milled Spanish cedar that’s just under an inch think (0.91”):
    Here we go again..-ab65a17b-353f-41c0-9604-1b1a163d4a81-jpg
    Here we go again..-afd01e02-7b6c-4d3a-91d8-361aac4331d0-jpg

    Cut them out on the band saw and then did the double-stick tape method on the router table for the 3 pieces:
    Here we go again..-7e2ef7a1-8458-47d3-b51e-480d67bd65ee-jpg
    Here we go again..-e6565058-e148-456b-be10-4e601b598652-jpg

    Set up plan for the glue up:
    Here we go again..-0a8860a5-6428-4811-8931-838490e48b9e-jpg

    Glued and clamped:
    Here we go again..-ba92b6d2-dcdb-4f24-82f6-0bed3aa00baf-jpg
    Here we go again..-4c4f498b-f948-43ff-a7a4-b7babcf37c20-jpg

  20. #44

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    Nice work!

  21. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by citizenk74
    nice work!
    ty

    Here we go again..-32f1f768-a360-424d-9427-596daef95b5c-jpeg

  22. #46

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    After a few early morning sessions in my kitchen, I have the side braces and just about all the kerfing glued in the side shell. I used Old Brown Glue for this process.

    Here we go again..-9a0d8d1d-106e-4ebd-bf5e-6b6a700f5771-jpegHere we go again..-4b78d438-c8c2-4bf1-9d12-0112d2ff3b93-jpg

    Here we go again..-65fd8256-1a5a-4b74-87ff-8adbb51d7fc6-jpg

    Here we go again..-58430787-a1e7-408a-b3df-ea6cfb1b8abd-jpg

    Here we go again..-200c10c1-8d08-450c-a50e-ee0d54ed8137-jpg

    Here we go again..-211a6c15-9346-4be1-a792-e23a28c266f2-jpg

    Once that side dries, I will finish with gluing the (top-plate side) short cutaway piece and 2-kerf pieces on the braces.

    Otherwise, it’ll be ready to flush sand.

  23. #47

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    Great job and I watching every picture. Learning, learning!


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  24. #48

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    Got the neck set-back angle cut on the table saw to 4° and truss rod cavity cut in the router table:Here we go again..-eee95833-c3e4-4ed0-94a6-c48c54f09291-jpg

    Next up at some point, I need to mark and check the landmarks for nut,1st fret, 15th fret (body joint), and tenon cut mark (3/4” tenon).

  25. #49

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    Got all the remaining kerfing pieces glued up:
    Here we go again..-bc7fb3ce-0e0b-4aea-8e32-bf00c2311322-jpg

    Ribs are now fully braced:
    Here we go again..-7f3bf8ca-e023-4f69-b295-f74f8f804349-jpg

    Next up, chisel sharpening sessions. Then, I’ll even out the pieces glued on top of the braces -and shave off the excess before flush sanding.

    Then I’ll be set to trace the shape to bandsaw on the top and back plates.

  26. #50

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    Chisels are sharp and spinning their wheels to get moving on the shell bracing, but I’ve got a hiatus on that until next week.

    Scouted out the shell with the top plate:
    Here we go again..-c3b98ebd-72e1-40cd-bd99-461e3b189ceb-jpg

    Keeping the top plate centerline center at the neck block:
    Here we go again..-63b0ffee-77df-4e34-a25e-878f0e3c6027-jpg

    I found an off-center little Birdseye marking that I’ll use as my target for the centerline at the tailblock end of things:
    Here we go again..-3a731e7f-638d-485f-84ed-fc9739d92e66-jpg

    Certainly isn’t the most ideal aesthetically, but I think it shouldn’t affect the function in a negative way.