The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Looks like I'm going to have to start doing my own due to the pandemic. The guy I usually use is not responding. He might've shutdown. So...

    I'm looking to set up my Squier Classic Vibe 50's Tele exclusively for jazz. I'd like to put pure nickel 10's on it.

    1. What tools are absolutely necessary? (I know Allen wrenches)

    2. Where should I look for good direction? There are tons of videos on You Tube... Any in particular that you guys would suggest? I'm also not opposed to reading...

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    I do a basic setup that's usually enough. I don't diverge much from the stock strings, so I don't need much other than allen keys, and/or files/stones to dress fret ends.

    Worst case scenario, if you aren't satisfied, you go to a tech.

    There are loads of videos on youtube. find one that speaks to you. Check out Phil McKnight

    -Paul

  4. #3

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    I think there are generally two categories of guitar setup.

    Basic setup:
    - Truss rod
    - Bridge saddle height (and position for floating bridges)
    - Intonation

    These are no more advanced than just changing strings. Also except for intonation, adjustments are personal just like the string choice. Moreover they need to be adjusted to changing humidity and string gauge. They all should be done by the player. That way you can experiment with different settings find what you like. Only tools you need are screwdrivers and allen keys for Fender guitars.

    More advanced adjustments:
    - Nut height
    - Fret leveling and crowning

    Again not that complicated, but unlike the first category these are not (easily) reversible and require more specialized tooling.

    You can search online for each category. I wouldn't just follow one source but rather read up or watch multiple sources and get a good general understanding of each.

  5. #4

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    I've been doing my own setups for 40 years or more. It ain't rocket science. You just need the ability to understand how things work. A good place to start is at frets.com. Lots of good information there.

  6. #5

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    Set ups are "issue solving" and can be overdone (IMHO) if the instrument is in reasonable shape.

    Has this one been neglected? Out of it's case, no humidifier?

    Also, how "deep" do you want to go; remember TRAIN?
    That's truss-rod, action, intonation...adjustments in that order.

    This business can become overwhelming trust me and take you from practice, which is more important, so keep it simple
    ( sometimes an old credit card will do ).

  7. #6

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    Stew-Mac sells a pocket kit with all the right allen, phillips, and regular bits plus a magnetic driver that I find indispensable. Also wire cutters and band-aids.

    Basic string-change stuff I do myself. For the more tool/time-intensive stuff, I take it to a pro. Also all electrical issues.

  8. #7

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    I won’t do frets, nuts or saddles but I’ve done about everything else. Might try replacing the saddles on my Strat though.

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by TedBPhx
    I won’t do frets, nuts or saddles but I’ve done about everything else. Might try replacing the saddles on my Strat though.
    You'd be very surprised.

    Unstring...then painters tape between frets and lightly polish ( it's just nickel ) with fine 600 paper ( no need to re-crown ).

    Takes out the slight wear; then hit with GorgoMyte cloth: Gorgomyte Fret And Fingerboard Conditioner

  10. #9

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    Neck, bridge height, and intonation adjustment. I am afraid to mess with frets.

  11. #10

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    Thank you guys! This is the info I'm looking for! Definitely wanting to keep it as simple as possible... Truss rod, action, intonation.

  12. #11

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    Get the Dan Erlewine book if you can--Guitar Player repair guide. I learned SO MUCh from that book.

  13. #12

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    I do most everything myself except for fret work and electronics (I'm lousy with a soldering iron.). During covid my guy has set up a Saturday-only 4-hr drop-off/pickup at his door. No in-person contact the rest of the week.

  14. #13

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    I do it all, including fret levelling. None of it is difficult if you are detail-oriented and have the patience to do things deliberately and correctly.

    Any guitar player can do truss rods, bridge height, and intonation as long as the frets and nut are ok. You may want to use measurements to start, but soon you'll be able to do it just by look, touch, and sound.

    Even if you use a skilled guitar repair guy, you may have to do some tweaks to get things the way you like. It's a personal thing!

  15. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilpy
    I do it all, including fret levelling. None of it is difficult if you are detail-oriented and have the patience to do things deliberately and correctly.

    Any guitar player can do truss rods, bridge height, and intonation as long as the frets and nut are ok. You may want to use measurements to start, but soon you'll be able to do it just by look, touch, and sound.

    Even if you use a skilled guitar repair guy, you may have to do some tweaks to get things the way you like. It's a personal thing!
    This is particularly important because even the best set up person in the world is not you playing the guitar. In fact I remember Howard Roberts mentioning how he actually change the action on a regular basis depending on how he felt. Some days you have more power and strength and like resistance and other days not so much. I find myself that if I play fingerstyle a lot then my touch is just softer and I like less resistance. However when I get the pick out, and I use a thick one, then I sometimes like a pretty stiff attack. I recently bought a guitar that I that was set up by one of the finest fellows in the business, of course I do all my own work but this came perfect. Then I notice after a hours of playing the action was just a hair too low. I played fine and no buzzing but I just moved it up a tad hardly noticeable even to measure but my hands knew.

  16. #15

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    agree with mr.b, any of the dan erlewine (stew macs man) books out there..and also his vids...

    way before there were really many guitar tech books and internet, i used to read erlewines column in guitar player magazine...he was the beginning..nearin' 50 years later and i'm still a fan of his methods

    for a string change you really just need the tools supplied with the guitar..the bridge allen wrench and the trussrod wrench...add a good wire clipper, a good metal straightedge ruler and a plastic tuning peg winder & you're on your way

    luck

    cheers

    ps-taking pics before you start is also a good idea should you get thrown off

  17. #16

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    The Fender website has good setup instructions. The tools needed are very simple and available from any hardware store.

  18. #17

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    I was afraid to do fret jobs, but started dressing fret ends, leveling and crowning on cheap Asian guitars and the results are sooo satisfying. It's not difficult at all, you don't need a lot of expensive tools (although you can spend as much as you want on fret files) and it can make a cheap guitar compete with the expensive ones!

    Same for nuts: I invested in some nut slot files (those can be very expensive, but deals can be found) and a feeler gauge and made many of my guitars play so much better that I feel sorry for not trying this many years ago......

    I have now put together several wirings for different guitars and getting better (and neater) at it every time.

  19. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by deacon Mark
    This is particularly important because even the best set up person in the world is not you playing the guitar. In fact I remember Howard Roberts mentioning how he actually change the action on a regular basis depending on how he felt. Some days you have more power and strength and like resistance and other days not so much. I find myself that if I play fingerstyle a lot then my touch is just softer and I like less resistance. However when I get the pick out, and I use a thick one, then I sometimes like a pretty stiff attack. I recently bought a guitar that I that was set up by one of the finest fellows in the business, of course I do all my own work but this came perfect. Then I notice after a hours of playing the action was just a hair too low. I played fine and no buzzing but I just moved it up a tad hardly noticeable even to measure but my hands knew.
    Great advice. My guy is the most respected in western NYS, but every time I get a guitar back I have to adjust it for ME.

  20. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by mr. beaumont
    Get the Dan Erlewine book if you can--Guitar Player repair guide. I learned SO MUCh from that book.
    This and Erlewine’s HOW TO MAKE YOUR ELECTRIC GUITAR PLAY GREAT. This one even includes cheapie radius templates which are very handy. With those two books, you can do almost anything.

    The only thing I do not do myself is refrets.

  21. #20

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    Can I be the only guitar owner here watching this guy?


  22. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by WILSON 1
    Set ups are "issue solving" and can be overdone (IMHO) if the instrument is in reasonable shape.

    Has this one been neglected? Out of it's case, no humidifier?

    Also, how "deep" do you want to go; remember TRAIN?
    That's truss-rod, action, intonation...adjustments in that order.

    This business can become overwhelming trust me and take you from practice, which is more important, so keep it simple
    ( sometimes an old credit card will do ).
    I've heard the N is for Noodle.
    You Noodle to evaluate the new setup and and then repeat the process if needed.


    Fender has this nice information on set-up on their website:
    https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/...itar-properly-

  23. #22

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    You've got that right!

    What does perfect intonation open and at the 12th fret mean when you voice x5766x and get gots or worse, eau-gots?

  24. #23

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    Guys- Thanks so much! Great advice all!

  25. #24

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    What made me start doing my own setups - and refretting- and electronics - was the cost of luthier work. Here, it's serious money. (And I understand why; a reasonable fret job is several hours of work. hammering the frets in is ony 5% of it) Plus, it's enjoyable- but only with the right tools. So, I do nuts, bridges, pickups and wiring looms, and ( unavoidably) truss rods. I've refetted at least 12 guitars, starting on a £200 Ebay beater which turned out reasonably well. It's surprising how you can get 1 mm action on almost any guitar after a refret. BUT the key is, you have to invest in the tools; it;s impossible to do a refret without specialist nut and crowning files, radius block, stick-on abrasive, fret nipper, de-fretting tools, slot files etc, etc etc.

    So...I'd say - if you just have a couple of guitars you play, it might not be worth it. If, like me, you have been a serial buyer and seller of guitars, and you want them all to play well, it might be. Of all the things I have learnt the hard way over many years, I'd say the 2 most important factors in a good set-up are:
    -get the nut down to the right height. Nearly all factory guitars are set far too high. Gibson, especially
    -get the truss rod set correctly. Every other player I know is afraid to adjust it. It's safe enough if you read up on how to do it. And it's hard to play on a bowed neck...

  26. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by WILSON 1
    ( sometimes an old credit card will do ).
    ....My guy likes cash better ! : )

    ( Sorry but good luck ! )