The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
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  1. #1

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    Being halfway through my first guitar build - as I previewed in my other blog - I decided to make an uber light and portable amp/ open-back cabinet to go with my hopefully-completed archtop.

    I read some of the blogs re: micro bass amp heads and had initial plans to build a cabinet for use with the Trace Elliot Elf bass amp head as this thing is super small and light. It is rated at 130W/8ohm, and thought about trying the Eminence Wheelhouse 150W speaker. I couldn’t find any sound samples using the Elf with guitar, so I started looking into the Quilter 101R and settled on building the cabinet around a Eminence Cannabis Rex 12” speaker.

    Decided on final dimensions of 14.5” x 14.5” x 11.25” (common board width). This will leave the inside square 13” after the dovetails and about an inch around the 12” diameter of the speaker.

    Cabinet is premium pine from Lowe’s cut from a 1” x 1’ x 4’. Cleats from leftover pine or hardwood scraps- haven’t decided. 1/2” birch ply for baffle and 1/4” birch ply for back panels.

    I haven’t made many dovetails other than for a tissue box, but I enjoyed doing them. For this project, I bought a David Barron magnetic dovetail guide. This holds the saw right against the guide to make the process a little easier.

    Here’s a photo of my 4 sides, cut to size and labeled:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-a71e3e76-8000-4a86-8825-4eaa1fee9ea3-jpg

    Scribed baseline (3/4” thickness):
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-d3208cf6-c426-49bf-84fd-ec96aa49a052-jpg

    Here’s a pic of the 1:7 dovetail guide in action marking:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-92f6777a-ac96-42f8-b835-462c6e300043-jpg

    Once I marked the first side of pins, I placed the other board next to it outside face upwards (pins point towards the face) and used a ruler to trace the lines. Then I placed the dovetail guide like the photo above up to the pencil and marked the top lines. This saved time from using the dividers as I did marking the first set of pins:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-175a65b7-00d4-4f8d-a608-c227db635bce-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-d63a9eae-6fbe-4428-b355-2f79eed16b1c-jpg

    Pins marked on both sides of pin boards:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-c6114388-857d-4e6e-b467-87a604e6a7fb-jpgFirst-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-be4453e0-e43e-46d8-89ba-dc6a0c25a4c6-jpg

    Next stage in this side project will be to saw the pins, remove waste with coping saw, and chisel to baseline. Stay tuned...

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    The Jazz Guitar Chord Dictionary
     
  3. #2

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    I made a makeshift depth stop by hand planing a paint stirrer stick, so that it’d be 3/4” at the handle-end of the saw when against the spine of the saw. I then used a 4” double-square to find the spot where it was 3/4” at the saw-end and marked it with a Sharpie. I then attached it using double-stick tape:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-dd58b1cb-07ae-45c3-81a5-d938cf8a6e67-jpg

    I made some test cuts and it worked well, so I made the cuts using the dovetail guide:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-ce802d61-9829-4eca-9992-c676756ecf66-jpg

    Then removed the waste with a coping saw:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-ea370aa7-83ea-47c8-adff-3c507eace181-jpg

    Post-coping saw, pre-chisel:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-14dbba9e-2fa2-43c7-9c76-28b14d5a1a7a-jpg

    Then used the bench chisels to remove the remaining waste and chiseled to the line. I noted that even though I used the magnetic guide, some of the pins weren’t at 90°. Using the guide, I chiseled the pins to refine them a bit.

    Top and bottom pieces with pins complete:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-bf4139a3-fcd3-491e-b06b-0f67834f1c2c-jpgFirst-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5069c6c9-112e-4273-ab13-275d9eed1281-jpg

    They may not end up being the prettiest, but this is gonna be one strong cabinet!

    This is how I’ll transfer the pins to make the tails to be done this week:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-bdda450f-5b56-4565-a114-f74c6606e50a-jpg

    Will shoot to have this ready to glue up this weekend, and practice with the neck dovetail jig for the archtop.

  4. #3

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    Many thanks for all the wonderful pics and narrative. Much appreciated.
    Impressive joinery!

    You bench, shop and tools are all first class. I'm jealous.

  5. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Greco
    Many thanks for all the wonderful pics and narrative. Much appreciated.
    Impressive joinery!

    You bench, shop and tools are all first class. I'm jealous.
    Thx Greco. My ‘shop’ is an unofficial bench in my garage that I attached that Irwin woodworkers vice you see in the pic with the dovetail guide. I own some hand tools and the Rikon wet sharper. You’re right tho- my buddy Steve has just about everything one could need that’s good quality. I started paying him $10/mo in October to help with the cost of all consumables I use (sandpaper, blades, brushes, etc). Really lucky to have access to such a place. It’s climate controlled, too!

  6. #5

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    Transferred the pins as shown in the last post. Traces the pins with a lot of lead from the pencil and cut them out with the dovetail guide:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-54a8e34e-b085-4ae1-aebe-0273476a4ae7-jpg

    Cut them out with coping saw:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-b6e5a6e3-d270-433f-9afa-91b0eabddc15-jpg

    Chiseled to line and was ready to fit. Just a little shaving here and there and presto:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-a5aa9bc8-cbf4-4b5d-bb2d-4dcbfac64206-jpgFirst-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-09226d14-21bb-49d9-a9c1-506efde74b25-jpg

    A little dab of Tite Bond II on the pins and it’s now solid a tank!
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-47115e26-3401-4192-b74b-a35a8bc284b6-jpg

    And, it came out square!
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-35f45518-dc4c-476b-89ae-f9ba18670e97-jpg

  7. #6

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    Prepping to cut the speaker baffle hole, I saw this online article for a cool jig to cut a circle using a jigsaw:

    How to Cut a Perfect Circle with a Jigsaw | Man Made DIY | Crafts for Men

    I traced and cut the pieces:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-c3760ed9-8821-4521-8824-f371b2f5c3ce-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-c0ce3bc7-a13a-4839-bee2-178d7a1f832c-jpg

    Drilled the pilot holes:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-aeee196d-a588-4e91-bbaf-e60979b170d0-jpg

    Taped jigsaw and ready to cut:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-3ed48459-4743-4716-8342-6eed802dfc28-jpg

    Result:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-2263e2c1-808d-43fa-834b-41027b5e0d78-jpg

    #EpicFail - I really liked the idea. Not sure why the blade bent, but it wasn’t successful. Wasted time = good learning.

    That is all.

  8. #7

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    Recut the baffle and retraced the circle. This time I cut it out with the jigsaw by hand (fairly easily) and finessed it on the spindle sander. Much easier and much less time:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5fd40aec-2353-47fa-b87a-d6a86c5120f6-jpgFirst-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-cfdc96bc-3cbc-4889-851f-d24ad5aebdd2-jpg

    Traced the speaker, marked the speaker mounting holes, and marked them with an awl:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-c4b9ebb6-3e77-46b6-ad40-e4951e949eb2-jpg

    Then drilled 1/4” holes for the #10-32 tee nuts and malleted them in.
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-edceec5a-e340-4c59-97e9-260c0e721dd7-jpg

    Test fitted with #10-32 pan-head machines screws, #10 washer, and 1/4” split lock washer:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-59edf937-9138-46fa-bc5b-14323cded323-jpg

    Was solid. Disassembled and spray painted the baffle front flat black:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-f81088e6-50ef-4fde-96ca-91eb600e801a-jpg

    Cut 3/16” thick, 1/2” or so strips of ?maple? for the baffle spacer for grill cloth:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-142d98d4-3696-4d0b-a581-786cf38db668-jpg

    Spray painted over again, but forgot to take a pic.

    Baffle now ready for grill cloth.

  9. #8

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    Cut cleats using same pine as cabinet. Cleats were cut to 3/4” x 3/4” to fit exactly inside dimensions for speaker baffle on front:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-e449346f-0f30-4d8e-9fbd-3f294ba66513-jpg

    The back top (4”) and bottom (3”) panels are made from 1/4” plywood and are currently cut long. Cleats for those seen laid out here:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-dcbb847b-a931-42fa-b622-fad7634944cb-jpg

    In shop on Tues, will mark location of front and back cleats, fasten those in, sand the amp with RO sander, drill hole and install speaker jack, and drill holes for handle on top. Stay tuned ladies and gents!

  10. #9

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    Ran corners on router table with 3/8” round over bit, and sanded with 100, 180, and 240 grits:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-ef87505e-6b4a-4333-ab32-4cea7a36e3cf-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-54047fe0-9c07-41c9-9b0c-bc0312934e7a-jpg

    Marked setback distance of 3/4”- 1/2” for baffle and 1/4” space in front of the baffle. Used set-up blocks that all measure 3/4” high with a ruler to ensure it was flush:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-ef562399-8620-4c74-bae1-e19b65752a24-jpg

    I applied glue to surface and used pneumatic nail gun to secure them. Here’s the front baffle cleats:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-a9b160bf-a6d5-4c71-bebc-7856476ac340-jpg

    Trimmed baffle to have 1/8” on 2 adjacent sides to accommodate grill cloth and Tolex, so that it ends up centered:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5d1a23ee-37c0-464a-aa23-33de6395ffad-jpg

    Final painted baffle ready for grill cloth and speaker:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-542ce0f7-e8d9-4d3f-9c03-032d63a43290-jpg
    *note the cool art that resulted from the backdrop! That’ll end up as celestial artwork for the newborns room!

    Appearance of front with baffle positioned:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-8bbb710b-3e16-4a15-87f2-d780144e65e7-jpg

  11. #10

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    For the back, instead of using the setup blocks and ruler, I put the back face down on the workbench and used the back panel and 1/16” setup block to accommodate the Tolex. A little TBII glue and 2 nails:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-f50cc2d8-c45c-4b72-abd4-0e39f52f3623-jpg

    All cleats glued and nailed into place for panels:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-f6a82893-3c2c-4a15-98c9-54df9c6fe0e0-jpg

    Again, about 1/8” space should be left on adjacent sides to accommodate for Tolex:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-36e21cf9-7c7b-4bd2-918e-5b56f2eb1516-jpg

    Marked the center of the top back panel for the jack plate:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-6093b531-f276-4d26-a3f0-ea0f09d3061d-jpg

    Drilled using 1-1/8” Forstner bit:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-94022ff4-cb8a-4625-9c84-6d3dc0fba167-jpg

    Jack plate fit into hole:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-89d8e644-7aa7-47e2-a733-b6c0443a963c-jpg

    I have since marked the back plate screw holes for the cleats, and will drill those tonight along with the holes for the handle.

    Tolex: look out! Hot pink Bronco... Not for everyone, I know. With a conservative hand crafted archtop on the way, gotta live a little and have some fun. Prolly last of the supply on the entire internet, I searched high and low..possibly from the Pinkburst project.

    The Pinkburst Project: Guitar Auction For Uveitis Research

    Grill cloth- Marshall large check from Mojotone.

    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5f63859f-a715-4103-b098-06ec1cca4f9f-jpg

    Stay tuned for Tolex application..

  12. #11

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    Marked centerline of amp top and determined 7” felt like a comfortable handle position. I marked out those lines, and then measured the distance between the hardware holes and transferred them to top:First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-34f793d7-c394-455a-a1bf-529dbd4a089c-jpg

    Drilled 1/4” holes for tee-nuts that came with handle hardware, malleted tee-nuts on underside of top, and screwed it on:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-d38ab4de-da25-4ba5-800c-685418a4155b-jpg

  13. #12

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    I must comment

    With those nicely done hand cut dovetails why cover it with tolex? I have done hand cut dovetails and would have a hard time covering them up.
    A half dozen coats of poly would look great.

    Have you thought of a caned grill? That would be really different.

    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-box-small-2015_04_12-16_45_02-utc-jpg

    This was taken before the box (not the grill) was sprayed with truck bed liner.

  14. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by BBGuitar
    I must comment

    With those nicely done hand cut dovetails why cover it with tolex? I have done hand cut dovetails and would have a hard time covering them up.
    A half dozen coats of poly would look great.

    Have you thought of a caned grill? That would be really different.

    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-box-small-2015_04_12-16_45_02-utc-jpg

    This was taken before the box (not the grill) was sprayed with truck bed liner.
    BB - appreciate you offering your opinion. You’re the 3rd who’s said similar- Steve (from the shop) and my dad, haha!

    I personally am not tied to having the dovetails displayed, lots of marks of the maker, but they do look cool.

    My initial plan was to stain it with some Fiebings Ox Blood leather dye, to still have visible dovetails and color. I tested it and didn’t love it, but still an option to revisit:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-7501b0ed-2557-453a-8c45-49c9779b303c-jpg

    I’m not a fan of the caned grill, so I’ll stick with the Marshall Lg. check.

    I’ll let it stew a bit...

    Any other votes out there?

  15. #14

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    The greatest thing about building our own "whatever" is we can have it exactly the way we want it.

    Nice work.

  16. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by BBGuitar
    The greatest thing about building our own "whatever" is we can have it exactly the way we want it.

    Nice work.
    Thx! All these musical wood projects are uncharted waters for me and I’ve been happy so far.

    You're right about that- customization at it’s finest. Now that I think of it, maybe I’ll stain it as though I won’t tolex. If I don’t like it, I’ll just tolex over it!

  17. #16

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    Aside from cosmetics and a quick solder, this construction is complete.

    I initially decided to do this project guided by this website:

    https://gtr1ab.wordpress.com/2010/11...-carousel-2070

    Can’t recall how but, I somehow discovered Uncle Doug’s YouTube channel - I think when trying to find tolexing tutorial - but this ended up being my primary reference.

    This cat has the best instructional video on building a speaker cab and tolex application, hands-down. It’s ridiculously detailed. I could listen to this guy endlessly. Check his other videos and I’d bet you’ll subscribe!

    Uncle Doug
    - YouTube

  18. #17

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    The thing about pine is it will darken with age. I don't stain anything because I am not good at it.

    Your lucky to have found a piece of pine at home depot that was flat. Most of what they sell is flatsawn and that tends to cup. Even their plywood is not as flat as I would like it.

  19. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by BBGuitar
    The thing about pine is it will darken with age. I don't stain anything because I am not good at it.

    Your lucky to have found a piece of pine at home depot that was flat. Most of what they sell is flatsawn and that tends to cup. Even their plywood is not as flat as I would like it.
    I opted for two 4’ pieces instead of an 8’ so that it’d be less likely to be off.
    I’d say most of the ones I looked through at Lowe’s were pretty flat. I chose more on grain appearance.

  20. #19

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    Nice job mate
    What was the thinking for the speaker mounting ?
    back mounting it I mean .....

  21. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by pingu
    Nice job mate
    What was the thinking for the speaker mounting ?
    back mounting it I mean .....
    Thanks man.

    I don’t know the disadvantages vs advantages - it’s all new to me. I just followed the tutorial. Good question for someone who knows what the hell they’re doing! LOL

    I think you could also cut the speaker hole and route the front of the baffle to flush mount the speaker from the front, but I only used 1/2” birch ply, so I didn’t have enough thickness to do it. I would have prolly done that, tho. Then you wouldn’t need the 1/8” spacers for the grill cloth, I’d guess.
    Last edited by sbeishline; 11-08-2019 at 06:22 PM.

  22. #21

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    Welp, I decided to slather on some dye as I can always cover it up. Here she is in the current state- can definitely appreciate the dovetailed joinery:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-c6cbe878-3cae-474b-b4f6-cc11c443abb3-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-2445b39c-bfa7-4917-8585-8158f03e2c06-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-796bc2d6-81a9-453d-861a-de886645c2c6-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5cd14d6d-99e2-4461-86ec-ac45cdac9f89-jpg
    Lars inspecting the tolex and is holding out on final approval:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-79ee8e59-e51e-4dec-a745-958c36c21cc4-jpg

  23. #22

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    nice thread!...been watching...

    wet sand back the leather dye stain...and coat with zinsser bullseye sealer....(available in can, at any decent hardware store)..its a de-waxed shellac sealer...you can even add little dye to it, when you are building up coats..the more coats the better

    you have to seal the stain..otherwise the stain will continually be absorbed by the wood and fade...why also good to add a bit of dye to the shellac sealer...it will make it pop

    nice first effort!!! good for you..u done good

    cheers

  24. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by neatomic
    nice thread!...been watching...

    wet sand back the leather dye stain...and coat with zinsser bullseye sealer....(available in can, at any decent hardware store)..its a de-waxed shellac sealer...you can even add little dye to it, when you are building up coats..the more coats the better

    you have to seal the stain..otherwise the stain will continually be absorbed by the wood and fade...why also good to add a bit of dye to the shellac sealer...it will make it pop

    nice first effort!!! good for you..u done good

    cheers
    TY!

  25. #24

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    Took the cab into the shop and wet sanded it with 240grit wet/dry sandpaper and this is where we stand pre-finish (to be done tomorrow).

    Outside pic pre-sand:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-666e6a07-4b9b-4043-a7c1-fc7d9a2fbadb-jpg

    Post wet-sand:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-59fef026-7418-426b-ac1a-59ff822e396f-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-43b021f2-fc31-4546-a258-249c4a323677-jpg
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-fd5cd39c-4635-400f-9dfc-b95d16b59fa1-jpg

    With baffle:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-d1768e64-9f42-407b-bbd8-c12aeeb6a8f8-jpg

    Grill preview:
    First-Timer Speaker Cabinet Build-5a8b6e40-6513-4c5e-be6a-98fd4a06b29e-jpg

    I’m glad I gave this a whirl first before going right to the tolex. Ideally I was wanting more of a magenta than hot pink, so this is purdy cool.

    I typically use shellac, but this time I made a batch of 3-2-1 finish: 3pt linseed oil/2pt mineral spirits/1pt polyurethane. The linseed gives the liquid an amber color, so I may opt to go with clear poly + mineral spirits to keep the color closer to its current state.

    Even from just the wet sand, the dovetails sure do pop!

    Tomorrow will be to attach grill cloth to baffle, drill pilot holes to cleats, and put on finish.

    Just need a fuel source!
    Last edited by sbeishline; 11-11-2019 at 07:36 PM.

  26. #25

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    nice..dovetails should calm down a bit when it dries out....i love linseed oil..been using it for decades...but it does darken with time...that pink will go maroon!..hah

    are you going to coat the inside with the baffle black?...good idea to

    put those finish coats on thin...and lots of 'em...don't rush that part..spare you trouble down the line

    good stuff...have fun


    cheers

    ps- always liked this adage

    There's an old adage about boiled linseed oil finishes: "One coat per day for a week, one coat per week for a month, one coat per month for a year, and yearly then after.